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mikewags

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Posts posted by mikewags


  1. I will also be buying an inversion table really soon. They are good for circulation (getting the blood flowing the other way) as well as stretching out your spine.

    FiveDime - Check out Kmart (they have one for $129.99)

    Ice on the back helps too, i'm suffering with lower back pain right now and I've been icing my back and stretching the lower back muscles. Hopefully I will recover in a few more days.


  2. A friend of mine was telling me that he knows of a shop that uses computers to check your alignment : they then "pull" the car/suspension to correct where it is off.

    I'm not quite sure what he meant by "pulling it correct", but it sounds like bending it back correct. In this instance, I guess they would pull the right rear wheel hub outwards and correct the toe issue.

    It sounds rather shady, and not the proper way of fixing this issue - then again, I just might be explaining it wrong. He says it's quite common and his alignment guy recommended it.

    Just wanted to throw it out there (not considering it at this point...)


  3. Coffey has found several struts with the spindle pin hole bored into the strut at an angle. If you're not seeing something bent I'm guessing that may be the issue. Like I said before, put the G Machine camber adjust bushings on the inners and if the uprights are OK, call it a day.

    Wouldn't this angled bore mean that this problem would of existed for as long as I had the car? I don't see what would could progressively get worse if that was the problem.

    Where can I find these 'G Machine Camber Adjust Bushings' and can you give me any more information about them?

    Thanks J,


  4. Update:

    Got the car jacked up and off the ground. I took a look at the plates, they didn't seem bent or out of whack, although it's hard to tell while they are attached to the car. One thought might be that if the right plate was bent outwards (right) and that might cause the tire to be angled inwards.

    Question - Posted earlier said the transverse link mounting plates can be unbolted and removed without touching the rest of the suspension. Will I have to support anything with a jack by removing these? I'd like to lay them flat and examine them up close before I do anything else.

    th_IMG_0348.jpgth_IMG_0363.jpgth_IMG_0352.jpgth_IMG_0358.jpg

    The 4th photo is the suspect transverse link plate (right rear). If this plate were slightly angled left or right as opposed to DIRECTLY forward - would this effect the toe in? Ideally I can just take these off and compare them.


  5. I'll be working on a level cement garage floor, so I think the front wheels on ramps with the 2 jack stands in the rear should do it. I might place an elevated (by cinder blocks) 4x4 in the front and rear as a fail safe.

    Welding plates to the bottom of jack stands sounds like a pretty easy and cheap way to make jack stands a lot more stable. I have a friend that owns a sheet metal shop, i'm sure he'd be able to weld some steel square sheets to the bottom of the jack stands for me. Smart idea.

    Thanks for the suggestions.


  6. I've been seeing quite a few Z's popping up on FL Craigslist lately, so you might want to take a look there first. I would check the classifieds on this site as well, as there are quite a few Z's for sale under $1000.

    If you DO find a 240 for around that price, it will likely be a rolling chassy, non-running, or need loads of work. You might have better luck looking for 280z for that amount of money, although that amount is still very low for any model S30.

    http://www.hybridz.org/ is a good Z performance modification forums.


  7. If you're asking these kinds of questions, you're probably not ready for this job. Air tools are always better then hand tools, but hand tools can get the job done just fine.

    There is no doubt in my mind that this Job is over my head, but unless I happen to come across some money walking down the street; i doubt I will be able to have my guy do this.

    I have loads of hand tools; and can borrow air tools & compressor if needed. I am just trying to prevent any unnecessary frustration by having everything readily accessible.

    Once again, thanks for all the advice guys.


  8. By all means, i'm no expert - But i think the best you can hope for 25mpg (highway). Even if you are getting 20, you are doing pretty well.

    I get about 18 - 20 MPG in my 280 - and it's EFI. I'm due to have a valve adjustment, but other than that - i'm not sure what I can do to improve the MPG.

    On a side note, I find it very hard to get an accurate MPG reading when I drive the Z since my foot becomes very heavy when i'm in it! :)


  9. I'm going to get my car jacked up and the tires off so I can begin my attempt at replacing my rear bushings these upcoming weeks.

    I was using my neighbors' jack anytime I needed to work on the car, I figured I might as well go out and buy one myself. I found a sale on a set at sears which included a 3 ton jack, 2 jack stands, and a creeper : all for $119.99 - I figured it was a pretty good deal and investment.

    http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00950188000P?keyword=car+jack

    My plan is to pull my car up onto two car ramps on the front then jack up the rear of the car at the differential, and place the two jack stands in the rear under the frame rails. Afterwards, I will have the jack free to assist me in lowering the suspension once unbolted.

    Does this sound about right, or is there a better way to go about this? Any tips on jacking up a Z, keeping it safe, or anything else I should keep in mind?

    Thanks in advance.


  10. It's hard to get a good shot, especially with a small digital camera. Regardless, in person you can pretty easily tell its off.

    Would it be worth changing the differential gasket out during this project? (Don't know if it would be easier while the rear suspension is out).

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