Oiluj

Looks like it's in good condition. Definitely worth spending a little time and money to make driveable.

Fantastic! So where are the pics?!

I didn'tack the engine up when replacing the steering rack busings. Just took some effort.

If I recall, the keys were just a "T" shape. As far as shiney goes, once the anodized finish is oxidized, not too much you can do but paint or re-plating. You can always try polishing a section on the underside to see if that will work.

I'll add that Les is a very responsible source. I had a shipping damaged parts and he took care of the problem without question. I've the good fortune to visit his shop twice, and he is a very friendly guy. His shop is always full of projects and a visit there is like a Datsun history lesson... I'll be calling him in the next couple weeks for some parts for my next door nieghbor's Z refresh.

FWIW, Hagarty has increased it's insurance value range for 240z's...

I like Redline MT-90 for my tranny. Shifting was smoother than with dino-juice.

1) I'll support a few things said above. In two Japanese events I've attended, the stock or nearly stock cars hardly got a second glance. The Highly modified cars with engine swaps got all the glory. Not to unexpected really... . 2) In local "all marque" shows, the humble Nippon cars don't win big honors, but ARE beginiing to see more recognition. Let's face it, judges looking at "best foreign car" will almost always be charmed by a sweet XKE or Healy as opposed to a classic Z. Z's are still too "familiar"... If I were judging, I'd probably do the same thing, especially if there was a pristine XK120 on the field... That said, my little Z did win a "sponsor favorite" award last year at a local show and got lots of positive attention.

Dennis, Please post a pic of your Avanti. Another one of my all time favorite cars. A/C or turbo car? Julio

Charged my battery. Got my overhead light working last weekend and promptly forgot to turn it off....

Ask your painter, but I've heard you shouldn't use a cover until the paint is fully cured...

Dave, We all have bad days, (or weeks), and I'm happy to hear you are not leaving. You have helped so many on this site it would be a shame to lose you. Glad both you & Mike worked it out. That shows character on all sides...

Solderingcan work, but it does take some skill. Practice on smething else before really messing-up your paint! Probably safer installing small plastic or rubber plugs. Try McMaster-Carr as an easy source.

That's one nice looking car! My car with the eigbach's sits about the same.

I agree, nice looking car!

'll second Arne on the rubber suspension parts for a street car. The poly transmits even the most miniscule bumps. Really glad I kept mine mostly 90% rubber. Stock springs are fine, but I'll give a thumbs-up for the eibach springs. They help correct the effect of modern gas shocks raising the ride hieght. (though I still had to remove one coil from the fronts to get her to sit flat).

Here's a link to a source for the stipping. Vinyl insert comes in white, black & silver. http://www.customautotrim.com/products/moldings/rivet.htm

Nice find!

That, or he has a deadline on a restoration...

I've always loved the classic 80's Honda 750.

Same here. Even the later 1975 style booster had the correct threads.

Looking nice. Can't wait to see the finished product!

And I have some premium swamp-land for sale at $2 million for the guy who buys at that price.

I'll add my vote. Don't buy it. There are much better cars out there. Unless you have a lucky nickel in your pocket, figure it will probably cost $7K+ to get a rust free car. Least that's what I found when I was looking.

Congrats! Many years ago I rebuilt my 240Z 4-speed on the floor in my apartment. Put down heavy corrugated, then absorbent towels, then blue plastic tarp. Never got a drop of oil on the carpet, but the oil smell lingered in the drapes for several weeks...