TomoHawk

The reason I asked about this issue is to see if the magazine is worth paying the $10 for the article. thxZ

Is anybody familiar with the article in Road & Track Magazine, March 1977, that tests the 5-speed 280Z? I saw one at a car show/flea market, and it will probably still be there on Friday. It's not a 78 280Z, but it's mostly the same car. thxZ

I was looking for some movie clips, and found this page: http://movies.yahoo.com/movie/preview/1808406003 It has some interesting information on the move that imdb.com doesn't. thxZ

You might want to look onto plasma coating them with aluminum. Hot rodders do this to headers. It comes out kinda shiny. thxZ

You could de-rust them electrolytically, using your battery charger & some household laundry chemicals. Use the search feature. Then a little scuffing & paint.

With all due respect to MSA, maybe someone could take measurements or make a template of the MSA speaker panel ( or one they made) , and scan it for others to try? I know that several people have made their own, so why not share the design? The reason I chose not to use a spaker panel is because I can't see how you get to the taillight bulbs and a couple other things. thxZ

No, but the hot coffee can spill on your leg, or the soccer ball or toy can get in the way of the pedals and you could get in a collision with something.

Is it difficult to get to the spare tire? Did nyone notice that the luggage straps are missing? thxZ

Are you speaking from experience? :laugh: (just kidding) IMO, if you are in such a collision that things will go flying around, you are probably in serious trouble period. It's the more likely things will roll around in the front of the car (phone, coffee cup, toys, soccer ball, etc) during normal driving that you need to be constantly concerned about. But there's no reason not to secure every loose thing in the car.thxZ

The reason for an audible reminder is because they are more noticeable during the day or night. Most people don't really look to see if the lights switch is on while getting out so the audible way is better during the day. At night, one usually notices the guage lights are on, and the audible reminder is still a good backup just in case.

The boxes fit in the back is just right so they won't move around- hence their shape. BTW- the shape of the box also allows them to sit on any end or side, so the sound can be directed. thx

That's a $20,000 cure for a $5 problem. I don't like ZXs either.

I made my boxes with 1/2 inch chipboard for the ends, and 1/4 inch MDF for the sides. I made the oval port on the end with a 1 1/4 inch holesaw, cutting two holes close together and then cutting away the wood between. the speaker were from WalMart, and I got a deal at the sewing store: 1 yd of the felt-like cloth for $3. the 72 inch wide cloth was plenty for the two boxes. Then I soldered a length of 18 gauge copper stranded wire with with some connectors on the ends. thx

I finally got some time to chase down the wiring diagram & wires on this item. I tested the idea using a simple 12Volt buzzer. If you take the bottom off the steering column cover, then you'll see a grn-wht wire that feeds all the instrument lamps. This wire has +12V switched power, and you'll need to splice into that wire with a small single-pin connector & short wire, unless you want to jam a small wire into the combination switch connector. The + side of the buzzer of your choice goes to the grn-wht wire. The other wire from the buzzer (- end) goes to one of the door switch connectors (either the blk-red or blk-yel) wire. You may want to take this opportunity to remove & clean the door switch as it switches the ground for the dome lamp, key-in buzzer, and the headlamp buzzer. Maybe even just install a new one. The other way to connect the buzzer is to solder your short wire & connector to the outside of the female connector on the heavy read wire that goes to the combination switch. This wire is +12V switched for the headlamps (use a test lamp to confirm first). This way will also give you a buzz, but only when you open the door with the headlamps on, and it's posible that you could then leave the car with the running lamps on. The first way is the best way. thx.

Funny! I thought it was, " I take my wife driving in the car, so I have a passenger-side airbag." Anyway, I plugged the power CB adapter into a different plug in the 12V accesory splitter, and the whine stopped. The plug that had the whine, also had a light in it. thx

Stadium seating? I think I'll take the Z in with me the next time I go to a ball game. thx

I saw some headlight buckets on ebay, and the seller says thery're not glass. What's wrong with glass headlight buckets? As long as it's the same shape & size, and has reinforced screw holes... thx

I think I fixed the problem. One of the sockets in the splitter has a light on it ( an l.e.d., I think) so that is probably the source of the whine. I plugged into one of the other sockets and things were fine. I think I will next try to wire the 12 volt splitter into the fuse box or battery, so I don't need to have an unsightly wire going across the radio to the light socket. thx

Sorry Enigma, almost forgot about you there... I stopped in a parking lot on the way home yesterday, and tried ravving the engine some, and I didn't hear any change in the pitch of the whine. Speaking of whine, my club is touring the local wineries today (whineries? ) thx

I've been trying out a CB radio in my car lately. I have a new handheld CB radio with a roof-mounted antenna, and a cigarette lighter adapter. I also have a 4-spot splitter for the lighter plug. There's alkalines inside the radio just in case. When I'm driving I get a high-pitch whine noise on the radio. I tried the dash radio on & off- it's not that. I nav computer on & off- no difference. Maybe it's the GPS cable or power wire?? It seems the whine is only there when the car is rolling. Any ideas? I will have to try different things like moving the radio behind the seats, running without the lighter plug splitter, routing the antenna wire differently. Just not time for it today- club touring tomorrow. thx

Datsun Z cars aren't the "Japanese imports" that the Honda, Acuras, Toyatas are. The Datsun Zs aren't responsible for screwing up the Amkerican economy like those other Japanese cars do when they come over here in thousands or millions every year for the last 15 - 20 years. Datsun Zs are real sports cars from Japan. Classics. That's why we buy them, fix them, keep them. Just like their Eropean cousins. OTOH, if these kids can afford $10,000 for the car parts & whatever, they could also go a little further and get a license for racing in sanctioned race courses. thx

So I take it you'd think that a felt covering for rthe speaker boxes would be the correct thing to do? With the black loop pile carpering in the back, and the silver-grey side panels I think I'd go for a matte-grey covering. Something that might not get too dirty if you handled them after driving several hours to a show, or on the road. Maybe even some of the newer polyester floor carpet. There was never any mention of how big the pressure hole should be. What do you think for 6x9s in a box about 5x8x12? Mine are done & ready for covering; I'll get some pics- if I can remember. :squareeye thx

I think my boxes are the biggest that will fit in the back of my car. I measured the area, then went to BestBuy and they had some finished boxes that were an inch too wide. O-L.. No biggie for me to make the boxes (I used to build cabinets). Just that glue takes a night to fix. I need to decide on a vinyl or carpet (felt?) covering. thx

My boxes are about 12x8x5, with a wedge-like shape. They're about .4 cu ft. or so.l Dave- That was really funny! thx

I want to try making a pair of boxes for some 6x9 speakers, and I'm wondering if anyone has some dimensions for their boxes (store bought or homemade) or what the volume should be. For 6x9 speakers. thx