HS30-H

Diagnosing carburettor jetting, tuning and setup 'online' is a thankless task! You can't blame people for not wanting to get involved, as there are far too many possible variables that come into play. Having said that, you should be able to get fairly close to optimal jetting on paper if you know the carbs themselves are in good condition and without twisted butterfly spindles etc. First of all, what series of 45DCOE do you have ( series type should be stamped on the top covers ) and do you know their origin? Did they come from another known car / engine ( used ) or are they new out of the box? What size are all your other jets, and the emulsion tubes? Do you happen to know what accelerator pump jet actuating rods are installed ( this should be linked to the series type - that's why I ask )? No disrespect intended, but often these kinds of problems turn out to be due to many things other than the carburettors themselves, or indeed due to inexperienced tinkering............. Final twiddling is always best carried out by an experienced rolling road operator who knows his way around carbs. Unless you are prepared to go through a lot of trial and error it might be best to stump up the cash and take the car to somebody else.

Yesh. Here's one that popped up a few years ago in an unexpected place. Full identity hidden to respect the privacy of the owner:

Roger, The only information I have came to me anecdotally, from people employed by Nissan in Japan at the time. One of my friends in Japan says he really wants to get a good UK-market 'RS30' model, to recreate one of Nissan's long lost phantom models: The Nissan 'Fairlady 260Z'. Apparently the problem was most serious on the aircon-equipped cars, and particularly when they were caught up in heavy stop-start traffic during hot weather. Cars were suffering serious fuel vapourisation issues, and dealers could not get a good balance between air-con off and air-con on settings ( the kind of problems that would soon to be eliminated with fuel injection ). They were being forced to make changes that would cause the cars to fail Japan's extremely strict emissions laws ( some of the strictest in the world at that point, I believe ) and a proper cure would have meant a complete re-design of the fuel system and maybe even different carbs. I'm told that Nissan decided to cut their losses, recall the problem cars ( buying them back from customers in some cases ) and fit them with L20A engines instead. The bulkhead VIN stamps were altered to suit, and new metal VIN plates attached to the inner wings ( fenders ). The L20A engine design already had a few years of development and production under its belt ( in a wide variety of models ) and didn't suffer from the same issues as the L26 in the Japanese spec. As I mentioned before, this was not highly publicised by Nissan and the whole issue was somewhat covered up. I still have never seen a Japanese service bulletin or any other Nissan-sourced document that mentions it. I think only a few hundred cars were affected. I think the spec of the domestic L26 concerned would have been different to the export spec L26 ( different carbs and more emissions equipment at least ) so that's why they treated them differently. I don't know the full ins-and-outs of the story, but it is an intriguing story. I would have thought that they would need to change emblems on the cars that were sent back out ( re-badged as 'Fairlady Z' models instead of 'Fairlady 260Z' models ) and this - along with the re-stamping of the firewall VIN and the engine change - might even have made it necessary to repaint the cars. And like most of these kinds of story, it is difficult to pin down the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth. I think Nissan would probably prefer us not to know! Alan T.

I'm not sure I quite understand your question. Body serial numbers don't mean anything unless they are linked to a prefix that identifies the model type being counted. Seeing as the '2+2' ( '2/2' in Japan ) is a completely different body type to any of the 2-seater models, it stands to reason that they wouldn't be counted with the same body number sequence. It is the MODEL VARIANT PREFIX that is being counted. So - in your local market case, for example - you could theoretically have had 'RLS30-000260' ( a 2-seater '260Z' model ) and 'GRLS30-000260' a 2+2 '260Z' model ) parked side-by-side in a dealer's showroom. You're missing the point about the full VIN number on your '71 '240Z' model. The body serial number on that particular car is part of the sequence that counts 'HLS30' bodies, and nothing else.

And that post is one more reason to think that 'DRBall' is a xenophobic simpleton.

You might want to try and replicate the original pieces, which had a lip on them ( for added strength I think ). The outside one had a distinct 'ear' on it to clear the sill seam. Crap photo ( apologies ) attached below to illustrate: If you're coming to UK in June you'll want to see Kevin & Gary's cars I should think? I'll see what I can arrange for you.

Have you got the attachment point strengtheners that were welded to the floor on cars that were equipped with the passenger footrest from the factory? Those are the most difficult bits to get in my experience ( for obvious reasons ). I've got a spare footrest if you need a better one........?

The 432 had a steel bonnet ( hood ). I think you are getting it confused with the 432-R, which had an FRP bonnet. The car you pictured above is a genuine 432-R, and the pictures were taken at a temporary display on the ground floor of Nissan's main showroom in Ginza, Tokyo ( not a museum, unfortunately ). The car on eBay has a slightly confusing description. As it has an 'S30' VIN prefix it obviously started life as either a 'Fairlady Z' ( S30-S model ) or 'Fairlady Z-L' ( S30 model ), and I'd say it was more likely the latter given the evidence of what remains from the original spec. Therefore any mention of '240Z' is inaccurate, as it is clearly neither an Export model 'Datsun 240Z' or one of the domestic market 'Fairlady 240Z' models ( 'HS30-S' / 'HS30' / 'HS30-H' etc ). I'd like to hear the full VIN / body serial number combo to date it properly.

No, the F5C71-B transmission was a DIRECT FIFTH gear unit, with a 'Dog Leg First' shift pattern ( nicknamed the "Low Back" in Japan ) as First gear was selected in the same plane as Reverse gear - with Second, Third, Fourth and Fifth in the normal 'H' pattern. This was not an Overdrive transmission. Don't get it mixed up with the FS5C71-B ( note that extra letter S in there ) which was an Overdrive trans, and with a conventional shift pattern. Carl, What look like small numerical differences in overall gearing on your chart actually - in the opinions of many - translate into very noticeable differences in the hands-on driving experience. I don't think legal speed limits have very much to do with it to be honest. If they did, the designers might just as well have given us all two speed trannies........ I've seen you mention before that you think the five-speed transmissions fitted to non-USA market car were to make up for a lack of power, which is curious when you consider that all other market models had a five speed available from the beginning of production and sales. The fact is that the HLS30-U models were given the 4-speed trans as standard equipment because it was part of the cost-cutting effort and effective 'dumbing down' for one market sector, and a perceived image of the potential customer base of that period.

Arne, I believe the R&T magazine data would refer to the HLS30U models when equipped with the FS5C71-A ( as an "option" ), no? I have a 1970 FSM ( this particular edition primarily aimed at the HLS30U models ) and it clearly states the 3.9 diff ratio to be paired with the FS5C71-A. See the attached scan: The 3.9 diff ratio is a nice pairing with the FS5C71-A transmission ratios, and I never understand why some people who purposely select a sports/GT car would seem to be so frightened of using peak revs and staying in the power band for longer. Curious.

No. They came with the 3.90 diff ratio. Anybody who wants a 3.36 gear in an S30-series Z with less than 200 WHP probably should have bought a four door sedan instead. :classic:

The Marty DiBergi version: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=11896&cat=3069

1969 and 1970 year production 'Fairlady Z' ( S30-S base model ) and 'Fairlady Z-L' ( S30 luxury model ) both shared the 'S30' VIN prefix. The trim and accessories ( and some of the mechanicals up to a point ) will help you to differentiate between the two. I'd expect a 1969~1970 build car to have a number between 'S30-00001' and 'S30-04504' Also take a look to see if the engine-bay VIN plate is still present - it is attached to the driver's side inner wing ( fender ) and those on Japanese-market cars are written in Japanese ( but the VIN is in a combination of roman letters and arabic numerals ). This plate might also have some extra information to help you identify the car, as the Japanese taxation class data is coded into it. I'd try to find the engine number too. You will find this stamped on a cast pad at the rear area of the block, just underneath the cylinder head / block joint and on the side of the engine that has the spark plugs. Try to get the full number and the prefix too. There is always the slight possibility that it could actually turn out to be a 1971 build-dated car, and if it was built towards the end of the year then there is the added complication that it could be a 'Fairlady 240Z' ( HS30-S model ) or 'Fairlady 240Z-L' ( HS30 model ) - which both used the L24 engine and both shared the 'HS30' VIN prefix. Again, VIN number will tell the tale and trim / accessories present or not present will tell the rest of the story. If it is an RHD Export-market car made in the 1969~1973 period, then it will have an 'HS30' VIN prefix too. Let us know how you get on.

Why? You make it sound like that would be a disaster. It could be quite the opposite. dashtonn, I'd say the most important thing here is a 100% positive identification of model and specification. Then you know what you are dealing with. See if you can find the full VIN number / body serial number stamped on the firewall of the car ( above the brake booster, underneath a few wires and tubes ). That will help us to positively identify the model. The trim and accessories will help to identify the specification. There are people here that can help you pin it down. The key point there being the "......in North America....." bit. A true 1969 or 1970 build date RHD Z car ( yes - especially even a 'Fairlady Z' or 'Fairlady Z-L' ) is worth MORE in overall world terms than an LHD model in similar condition. That's a function of rarity, desirability ( outside the USA/Canada ) and the relative weak exchange rate of the $US at the moment. So all one needs to do is put the car in front of the right buyer. dashtonn, if it really is a 1969 or 1970 build-dated RHD model, then I would be interested in buying it myself. Just thought I'd give you a little encouragement to show you that it is just a matter of putting the car in front of the right people should you ever wish to sell it. Good luck, Alan T.

Woah, slow down there. Don't raise false hopes and unrealistic expectations. Since when was the current highest bid on an unfinished auction a "price"? Especially when ( as Alfadog pointed out ) you can see that it is MILES away from his B.I.N. price.............. Nice! I'll give that my QC hanko any day of the week. Do it. :classic:

Maybe you don't, but you might need to make an appointment with a doctor to get his opinion on the symptoms of Tourette's Syndrome that you are displaying. :classic:

Its got a fair amount of what I would call black in it. Depends how well you stir it, and how deep your mixing stick goes into the slurry at the bottom of the can before you drip it over the side. Not much point in me taking a colour photo of the colour and posting it here, really. I don't think it would prove anything. The subtleties are too fine in daylight, let alone on a computer screen. It is a colour that is claimed to be 'Nissan Jidosha, Charcoal Grey Metallic' for the detail parts on a factory ZG, however. That'll do for me. :-)

[waving]Hello everybody![/waving] Anybody want to buy some paint? Toodle-oo!

Eric, They were not the kind of profile that I was after for the GT-R ( so I went with the Avons ), but the re-released versions of the classic MICHELIN TB15, TB5 & TB5 F&R might be good for you. DOT ( USA ) legal too, I believe: http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/michelintb15.php Alan T.

Lachlan, Did I mention to you that Masuda san ( Editor-in-Chief of Nostalgic Hero ) was talking to me about your contribution? He was very happy that you had gone to the trouble of contacting the magazine and reported what was going on in your homeland. He's looking forward to more. Nice job. There's a lesson for us all there somewhere. We probably need to be more proactive. Alan T.

Eric, Those wheels are now on the KPGC10, with new road-legal Avon ZZR tyres. Had a slight drama with the ride height ( it was very low, having been set for use with slicks ) but that is now resolved. Max, you'll need to be looking out for a silver Audi A4 Avant Quattro ;-) But seriously, contact me nearer August and we might be able to arrange for you to see my cars in London? The 432R-replica might even be running by then ( famous last words ). Gav, Kevin's car ( the '71 RAC car ) is nearing the end of a major restoration, and is being put back to its '71 RAC spec and livery. Kevin is taking this down to some intricate detail, including the replication of a UV-sensitive paint daub applied by the scrutineers at the start of the rally. His attention to detail is stunning. He's missing one Koito spotlamp, which is proving very difficult to get hold of. They were originally made by Koito as aircraft parts, and even Koito in Japan have come up with nothing so far. I know an old guy who has a set, but he is proving to be difficult to persuade to part with them. Gary's car ( the '73 RAC car ) is a family heirloom and is something of a 'rolling resto' at this point. It has wonderful patina and it would be a shame to pull it apart at this point. Gary did some work on it in 2006 and it might be on the road again in 2007. Myself and Kevin have been trying to help Gary source some missing works parts for it, and this should help things along somewhat. Cheers, Alan T.