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psdenno

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Posts posted by psdenno

  1. 10 hours ago, 26th-Z said:

    Of course, if there was any legitimate value 'as a Scarab', it wouldn't be in that condition now would it?

    And let's not forget that it's listed on "anything goes" CraigsList where for the $5 listing fee you could call it a custom bodied Corvette since there's no title.

    • Haha 2
  2. 1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

    Edit - It might be just a partial conversion. 

    It does have louvers in the hood and battery and M/C lids sort of in the style of a true Scarab.  But, no sign of ever having a rear spoiler or Scarab emblems.

    • Like 1
  3. 7 minutes ago, Killain said:

    .....the market dictates the price. Whether a gallon of gas costs $5 a gallon or $10 a gallon, it make no difference, you need it and they have it ? 

    That's kind of how it works.  Pay the asking price, make your own, or go without.  We're now living in a time when the best time to buy is yesterday.

    • Agree 1
  4. Unfortunately, those parts we buy don't jump into the shipping boxes all by themselves.  Rising labor costs have made everything more expensive.  

    • Like 2
    • Agree 1
  5. It must be new upholstery season.  I've got the passenger seat out and have repainted the frame and side rails, rewebbed the bottom cushion support, made new clear plastic protectors to go between upholstery and metal side pieces, replaced the original foam cushion pads and upholstery and am almost ready to start putting it all back together.  I discarded the jute.  I also wondered about its original function and figured it was just a breathable filler that had more "give" than the actual foam cushion.  Maybe part of the reason for the air vents in the seatback upholstery.

    • Agree 1
  6. 2 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

    It’s for the HVAC controls (or the radio under the HVAC controls) 

    Like @heyitsrama, I thought it looked like the radio bracket.

  7. 1 hour ago, fusion said:

    I would like the flares to lay directly on the metal without the added gap of the rivnut.

    I used Rivnuts to attach my flares.  The curvature of the flare brings the top edge of the fire snug with the fender.  There are a couple places where I could insert s sheet of paper snuggly between flare and fender, but I believe that is more due to irregularities in the flare or the fender.

    A solution to eliminate even the smallest gap is to run a section of vintage VW Bug fender welting between flare and fender.  I had initially planned to do that, but was pleased with how closely the flare fit to the body without it.  The welting is wide and you would need to cut triangular shaped pieces out of the lower part to facility bending/curving and leaving a gap for the attaching screw that goes into the Rivnut.  Here's a link:

    https://www.jbugs.com/product/6730.html?utm_content=shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwm6KUBhC3ARIsACIwxBiqriBdDnm73bShSLTwe7wbl9b8efluH6ub93oOYRCG-rVc4Rjo2tAaAmZ9EALw_wcB

    • Like 2
  8. Not just gasoline for cars cars contains farm harvested content, but also jet fuel.  A story on the news yesterday showed how plant based cooking oil from airport restaurant deep fryers is being converted to jet fuel.  

    • Like 1
  9. 1 hour ago, Wally said:

    By saying speed is more difficult you mean acceleration? I am only planning to use it as a casual cruiser btw

    By "low, or no, speed" I meant when parking or maneuvering in and out of tight parking spaces at speeds under one mile per hour due to the increased size of the rubber to pavement contact patch.  Once the car gets rolling, steering effort seems no different than with original width tires and acceleration is what it is with a 50 year old sports car.

    • Like 2
  10. 1 hour ago, Wally said:

    I like the King Rewinds. As for 15 or 16.....i will consider 16s but just seemed like too much for my taste. just imo the 15 looked better

    I have the 15" Konigs on my '71 Z with the tire size you mentioned earlier.  They fill the wheel wells nicely with no rub.  Steering effort at low, or no, speed is more difficult than with the original 14s and narrower tires.  For me, it was a good upgrade.

    • Like 1
    • Agree 1
  11. 2 hours ago, Ken B said:

    hey guys I am following threads and checked older ones too. My situation is a little different, I have the original aftermarket dealer installer AC in my 71 240Z. It works for crap.

    I'm looking for an EFFECTIVE AC conversion. I don't mind taking up some of the passenger foot compartment, the aftermarket already does. I often cruise alone anyway.

    PS - I have an 83 turbo in the car and LIVE IN FLORIDA !!!!

     

    Do you have the '71 aftermarket AC with the old style compressor mounted by the fuel pump or a later style rotary compressor?

  12. 12 minutes ago, RabbitZ said:

    Huh! I don’t have a radio so…thanks!  .....   I’m ready to put the dash back in, now! Wish me luck!

    As mentioned by w3wilkes, the cable is connected to your radio antenna.  In case you want to put in an original radio at some point, be sure to identify the electrical leads for the power antenna in your wire bundle before the dash goes in.  It will make hooking up the dash mounted power switch easier when the time comes.

  13. 1 hour ago, MM569457 said:

    I just noticed a small “bugsplat” crack forming on my original dash.

    what can I do to prevent further damage to this dash? The rest of the dash is pristine.

     

    Decades ago when my dash started to crack, I drilled a small hole at the end of the crack.  I was an aircraft maintenance officer in the Air Force at the time and knew that procedure worked well on C-130s when sheet metal cracked.  So, I gave it a try.  The dash is still in my Z.  The crack eventually got bigger over the years.  But, the "stop drill" procedure worked for years.  Good luck with whatever you decide to do to save the dash.  They all have a "Best By" date.

    • Like 4
  14. 1 hour ago, SpeedRoo said:

    Thanks for the ideas. I've never driven a 240Z with the standard original suspension setup, will be interesting to bolt on the newly restored pieces to see what it's like. Only thing I'm concerned about is the holes in bodywork needed to mount the front and rear BRE spook/spoiler, is there a way to fix them to the car without using bolts through the metalwork. If I could use double sided tape then I could remove them and the uprated suspension if someone wanted a standard spec car.

    Double faced tape isn''t going to keep the spoilers in place very long once you achieve highway speed.  Both front and rear need to be bolted on and that means holes.  I had a Spook on mine for decades and like the look and the downforce.

  15. On 4/5/2022 at 4:24 AM, RabbitZ said:

    I don't wish to pass up any possibilities to figure this out and connect it correctly. I have realized I may be making the wrong assumptions. I was thinking power goes from power input to my A/C Control Panel, which then goes across the A/C switch then the thermostat then over to the mini-harness to ensure the fan switch is on. Following the fan switch trace the wire into the engine bay where the compressor will be.

    But what if I am wrong? What if power goes across the fan switch, then the <Blue> wire off the mini-harness goes in to the A/C Control Panel (Blue to White), which then goes across the A/C switch then the thermostat/ Following the thermostat trace the <Blue> wire in to the engine bay...

    Or, what if power goes across the fan switch, then the <Blue> wire off the mini-harness goes in to the A/C Control Panel (Blue to Blue), which then goes across the thermostat then the A/C switch. Following the A/C switch trace the <White> wire in to the engine bay...

    I just do not know. Any help as to where these wirtes connect is most welcome!

    rabbit

    Not sure if this will help, but here are two scans from the 50 year old installation booklet that came with the ARA AC setup that was installed on my Z in 1972.

     

    Scan1.pdf Scan2.pdf

    • Like 1
  16. 18 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

    The 1972 280Z (we had much discussion about this one in the past.  Can't remember what we decided) is still up on the Beverly Hills site.  Looks like new pictures.  Like they're daring somebody to buy it.

    https://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1972-datsun-240z-c-11820.htm

    image.png

    image.png

    The entire car appears to be held together by blue paint.  

    Unless it has four wheel steering, that left rear wheel as seen in the original ad might indicate a problem.

    No cracks in the dash cover.  Check that, there is no dash cover.

    As a "parts car", what might it be worth?

    • Haha 2
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