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Dave.....The mounts look outstanding. Everything you do is to perfection! Thanks Guy

Here's the new addition to my 2nd garage.....the one that Jeff was kind enough to part with.

I'll take 3......Guy

Take it off.....It'll give you more H.P. just by dumping the drag created by the smog pump. Also it allows you to put 17 degrees of advance! It's a cleaner look.....Get rid of the extras on the balance tube....Bruce at Z Therapy will take care of that! All IMO.

I traded mine for a can of fishing worms!

You're absolutely right....I'll put that on my list of possibilties.

Nigel....I asked Z Doc about possible low oil to tensioner. He said no since the chain is oiled by the pinhole in the tensioner that sprays the chain. He said if there was no pressure, the chain wouldn't get oil and the guides and chain would self destruct. He also said and I quote "no oil in the tensioner would result in loud knocking of the tensioner foot like on an old tired Z engine when bumping the starter to set the valves_____knock knock."

Mark.....Remove the smog pump.....plug inlet to air cleaner where smog hose was attached...remove air injection tubes from exhaust manifold.....plug holes. then get Z Therapy to build your balance tube free of garbage and reset timing to 17 degrees BTDC. Guy

Nigel....I am leaning toward chain noise, but have you ever in your life heard of low feed to the chain tensioner? And regarding adjustment of chain guides.......what would cause noise on the slack side. There are basically two adjustment holes, and with a new chain etc. I have always opted for the right hand (bottom hole) adjustment. The chain is tight as can be. Also when I disassembled it, there was no signs of wear on the guides or tensioner boot. Guy

Chris.......I'll get Brandon to do a video this weekend. Andy....none of the above....nothing rubbing and I've run it on the bowls w/o a fuel pump.

It's a brand new Nissan tensioner......and I've completely removed the fuel pump...taped up the hole and ran it off of the bowls. The noise was still there!

Isky calls for .010" intake......012" exhaust. I went to .008" intake and .010" exhaust........that didn't change anything!

Yes we can replicate the sound free revving. The sound is definitely coming from the top end. The sound is almost liked loose ball bearings.....all valve train is getting sufficient oil. We put a stethescope and screwdriver on all sections of the engine. The loudest noise seems to emit when you put the screwdriver on the fuel pump......it almost sounds like it could be chain noise, but the chain is new and tight as can be. Called the Z doc in Roanoke and he said after eliminating all that I've done, it could be the cam profile, but Ron Isky had never encountered this problem....he's calling some customers to see if they've had problems. I've taken the engine completely apart and back together with no evidence of a problem on any parts. This is absolutely got us stumped! Any ideas?

I built an L28 with standard flat tops,a P79 head shaved .080 shimmed cam towers and a Stage III Isky reground cam. Everything in the engine is new (rockers, springs, mains, inserts, chain, oil pump, guides, crank pulley,cam pulley, etc. etc. etc.) The engine runs great! However, when you rev the engine to 4,000 and let off, it makes a ball bearing type of noise at 2,200 rpm on the letdown.When you run it up the noise comes on at 2,200 and disappears at 3,000 rpm. I've eliminated the oil pump, the distributor, alternator, fuel pump and water pump as possible noise sources. This is driving me and everyone that tries to figure it out crazy. I've contacted Ron Isky to see if he's run into this before and he said no, but would check with some of his Stage III buyers to see if they've run into this problem. Any ideas ? Thanks Guy

Don't forget to install a pilot bushing in the back of the crank!

The Car Show in the Spring in Hampton.

I can't claim the pics.....the Club photographer sent them out.....there were some real nice cars present. See you in Hampton!

http://nixpix.smugmug.com/Events/Ztoberfest-09/10012837_DWxyE#P-1-15 Miserable weather.....great show. See you next year....I hope. Guy

Dave.....Why do you have to replace the VR everytime you replace the alternator? I didn't do it last time and blew out the VR, but didn't know why.

Put a timing light on it.......it sounds like your timing(ignition timing) is way off. The timing should be between 10 to 15 degrees before TDC.

Take it to a machine shop......They will fix it cheap.....install heli-coil if necessary.

The 2009 Ztoberfest will be held again at Victory Nissan; 11401 West Broad St.;Richmond, Virginia 23223 on October 18th 9:00 till 3:00. www.richmondzcar.com for details. Hope to see some of the East Coast cars at the show.

ZLADY.....Great pics....lots of familiar faces...Fred(ZPIZZAMAN),Todd, Eiji. Where's the Z graveyard? See you in Richmond October 18, I hope. Guy

Jeff... Good to hear you made the change to real carbs......did you fix your oil gauge problem? Guy

Since you changed plug wires, make sure you replaced the wires in proper firing order....remember, the rotor turns counter clockwise.