Diseazd

Probably was a sticking valve. Didn't know how to act with fresh oil!

Let me get this stright. You didn't have any sign of this noise before you changed oil......right? You didn't change or touch anything else (however insignificant) except the oil filter......right?

Makes me want to call Bruce and order a set for the mantle!

I send my items out, but the more sanding, blasting or grinding (anything abrasive) I do before dropping them off..... the worse the result. My secret is degrease the items first, then submerse in Muriatic acid for 3-5 minutes. Don't laugh till you try it! The result is awesome, but the acid doesn't remove grease. At $5.00 a gallon......it's cheap and almost O effort.

What was his method for installing steering rack bushings?

Thanks everyone for your ideas......when one of my engines doesn't run perfect I can't sleep at night. I slept great last night!

Problem solved! The aftermarket crank bolt sold by MSA has a drop down on the washer that sets in the stock damper far enough to bottom out on the crank nose before the worm gear, crank sprocket, and slinger snug-up. This allows everything to be slightly loose! This eventually will wallow out the woodruff and could ruin your crank. It makes a noise that transmits up through the chain and sounds like a valve train noise. A $2.00 washer has ruined my life for the last 6 months. The washer needs to milled to work on that combo. Hope this prevents this from happening to anyone else! Guy

Anyone buying the aftermarket crank bolt from MSA needs to pay attention. I built a new modified L28 motor several months back. Everything new....everthing including the heavy duty crank bolt! It was shaved and shimmed, Isky Stage III.....no expense spared. It ran beautiful with some nice gitty-up. One problem.....between 1600 and 3000 rpm it had a chain type noise. I pulled the new engine down to try to find the problem......the crank sprocket had loosened the woodruff key. No problem, must be a bad crank since all is new. New Nissan crank pulley, new bronze worm gear, seals etc. etc. So I installed a new crank.....Everything new....new Nissan crank pulley, new heavy duty crank pulley bolt etc. Rebuilt the bottom end with all new bearings, crank etc. Noise is still there. Conclusion....talked with my good friend Todd Wagner at Tidewater Z. He explained that there is a small amount of play in the crank pulley but when you torque up the crank damper, everything locks up(crank sprocket, worm gear, slinger etc.). I took in this info to Riley at Lynchburg Nissan (Riley really knows Z's) and viola'.....he asked if I was running the after-market bolt with the stock damper. There is a machined drop down on the large washer that bottoms against the crank nose before things lock-up. If anyone is using the stock damper and large washer, it needs to be machined down to prevent interference with the crank nose!!!! Hope this helps everyone avoid the hair pulling experience I've experienced. A $2.00 washer has driven me crazy!!!!! Guy

How much is he asking?

I certainly concur with you Arnie......It's a near perfect match!

Right above the bar code it says "De 1620 Chevrolet Orange"

John.....It's Dupli-color Engine Enamel-Ceramic.....dyno heat tested to 500 degrees. They don't list a code number, but there were 2 orange caps and I just bought one of each to test. The match is perfect, the quality is outstanding and the unit turned out beautiful. I bought mine at NAPA. I'll try to get Brandon(Five and Dime) to post a picture as I am computer illiterate. Guy

Dupli-color has a can of off the shelf spray paint that matches it perfect.

We assembled the new Bend-Pak 4 post lift this weekend. Next....Wednesday the contractors are coming in to raise an 8 foot section above the lift so we can take her all the way up. We'll be able to get one of the 240 Z's under the silver 300ZX. There's another garage attached to this one with the white 70 and the lime 72 240's. This garage will end up with the silver 90 the Safari Gold 71 and the silver 73.

You need to push the nozzle all the way back up or your engine will exhibit the characteristics you just described.

Yes I've seen a number of pics of Frank's Texas car.....It's beautful. I asked him to post on this forum re his paint and he did. Zedyone K has more pictures of this awesome car.

Maybe we should have a roll call for The Classic Zcar members at the Thursday night dinner.

Carl.....Just ordered my tickets to The BRE dinner......looking forward to meeting you and my "Datsun Heroes". Guy

We're snowed in in Richmond......ZPIZZAMAN20......I haven't forgotten the engine etc. I bought from you. Just can't get there with all the snow!!!

Roger that Bruce.....This Global warming is killing us! Happy New Year...... Guy

Great looking ride.....nothing handles and drives much better than a Z32 right out of the box......I love mine!

Brandon.......Awesome pics.....you're definitely "A chip off the old block"!

MSA or Black Dragon has them......get new gaskets (one on each side of spacer) while you're at it.

Steve.....One of my fraternity brothers from Georgia Tech started the Mitty. He races Vintage cars.Do you know Steve Simpson? If you do tell him Hi. Guy Miller

First thing.....adjust your valves to .008 intake .010 exhaust. Then do another test.....if you don't get an increase in compression, you have somewhat of a problem. True, no cylinder should be 15% off of another, but 100 lbs. is too low. Probably needs rings. Should be reading 160 or so. Good luck!