beandip

I have removed these so called E Z outs before by drilling all around the edge of the bolt with a small drill likd Mike w said. Just be careful that the little drill does not hit the E Z out because it will catch and snap off also. I use an e z out as a last resort for this vary reason . For me they brake off 7o% of the time. Since I started using Kroil and or PB blaster I havent needed them.

looking for a stock exhaust manifold for a '79zx

NAW HOLD THE PLUG ! FOR AS LONG AS YOU CAN , about 1/10,000 th of a secound. ROFL

what year of Z is this that has a silver stock paint ? If you have flat tops then it must be a '74 . You are asking for nothing but a tuning problem with the webbers. There good units but you need to know what you are doing if you own them . I recommend the round top SUs for your 280 engine with SM needles. All the carberation you need. If you are building an all out engine for the track then the tripples might help. Unless you have deep pockets you would be best to spend some cash on tools and a couple of manuels . As what was stated earlier most mechanics now dont know Z cars. They are used to working on injected cars and if they cant plug in a diagnostic port , they for the most part dont know what is what. SUs are simple and great and will give you all the performance your engine can put out for the street . If you go to a custom body shop they will match any color you can come up with . If you go the Earl Shieb . That is just what you will get , an Earl Shieb job , a paint job that looks good from 30' .

Here is a site that has a lot of information that you may find interesting . www.geocities.com/zgarage.2001/engine.html It has the run down on engine blocks and heads , how to identify such and compatability. I believe it is written with the U S market in mind . There are different items available in various countries.

Daniel, take a look at the carbs. If they are flat top carbs , that is if the domes have tops that look like soup cans. If this is the case ,they are emissions carbs and were not good when the car was new and still aren't. E-bay is a source , however if you have the $, Z-Therapy is the best in the buisness. 503-587-9800 or ztherapy.com . For other parts for the car check out midwestz.com Chloe is vary helpful and finds things others cant and give us good prices . All the best Gary

The guy that runs in the 12s is named Norm and he lives in Seattle Washington. I believe he drives the car on the street as well as the strip. He frequents , or at least he use to , 240z.com . I agree that the SUs with SM needles for a 280 block is the way to go. Sorry injection people, I think injection is great dont get me wrong . I have a family car and my truck are both injected and are great. I cannot work on either of them. When a sensor goes bad in it goes to the shop. With my 240 I can do everything . It is simple and it performs well with SUs , tuned with a electronic ignition and sm needels. I think that 2manyzs hit the nail on the head about the 4-barrel on an inline engine . :classic:

I am not sure what you are asking here but I will describe what I am running . I have a '73 build date 8/73 the same date for the start of the 260. There are backets from the factory on the car , they do not look like your pictures . These are of thick sheet metal. The stock sway bar that fits is from the early '74 260 . Unlike the 280 bar this one has bends in the section that transverses the car so that it will clear the diff. . The later 260s have the stright bar just like the 280 , I dont know when the change was made but if you find a early '74 your set. all the rest of the parts are interchangeable. I hope this helps. Gary :classic:

I agree with scanlon about the SUs, take a hard look at the enternals of the dissy. . When you look down inside you see the circle thing wuth 6 points surrounding the stater thant's the reluctor. Under that is a magnet and below it is a coil attached to the module. Now the flat metal disk that the coil rests in is called the braker plate. It is made of two disks of metal seperated by ball berrings that are held in place with plastic keepers. If the keepers fail which is common on an old dist. , the vacume advance is screwed and also you have loose parts flying around tearing things up. If you pull the dist out and turn it up side down and tap on the bottom you might find some loose parts , like pieces of plaxtic or ball berrings . If so get back to me and I can help withe the fix and part numbers. Look and see if loose parts are there before you dissamble any thing. :classic:

How deep was the water you were going through. Alot depends on this . The car dident sit there for long did it ? Like 2many said already drain the oil in the engine , filter too. Cheep insurance. The thing here is , when the engine and drive train is hot and gets sumerged in cold water , it causes it to suck the water in around the seals front and rear of the engine and trans and the same with the diff. Sorry . WD-40 as 2many said does wonders.

the round tops are far and away superior to what you have now. They will make a big difference in the over all performance and the ease in tuneing.:classic:

As was stated quite well by 240ZX , we need more information. It might even be better to replace the head for one with larger valves so that is already done. Here is a web page that might help www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html have a look. where do you live ? You left that blank . I know of a great place here in Portland I hope this helps , at the vary least you will find some great information at Brians Garage site. .:classic:

John , I agree with 2many , sounds like a lean pop. Is there a reason you are keeping the flat top carbs ? If you do change to the round top SUs , keep the same intake manifold that you are running now. I have a '73 also but not the flat top ones and I cant help you at all . They are a completely different breed of cat. There are a few members still running them and understand there ins and outs. If you dont get information on them , try to post a request for help with them here and try the help me section. Good luck .

thanks Bruce, I think the same thing, My brother had a Triumph 3000 and it had a dual exhaust and sounded great . I think I am going to go this route and will post what is what . Gary

thumper , if you want a quiet pump and dont want to spend $135. go to a u pull it and find a RX-7 that is carberated '80 I believe is one , any way as long as it is NOT injected. They are quiet and will pump all the fuel you need and the right pressure and about $15.00 . I have been running one for over a year and have a spair. :classic:

I was serious , good picture , clear and shows everything well. I just removed the locks on both of my doors , and they dident require me to pry anything. They just needed to be rotated around untill the linkage just slipped off. The reason I dident post this before is because I have taken all the stuff out and with the glass and outer frame out I couldent remember what the acess is with the glass still in place. So many pictures that are posted are from an odd angle or of something up close and it is hard to tell what it is in the picture. You did good. Gary:classic:

by the way great picture.:classic:

I was just posting on the engine section on this vary thing. Wondering why no one was running dual exhausts. What I was asking is using 11/2" pipeing and a 20" or longer glass pack muffler times two and interconnecting them just infront of the two mufflers and just running the continuing two pipes toghether out the rear like stock , one over the other. Interconnecting the pipes is to ballance the back pressure and to help quiet down the systime . I have done this years ago, like 48yrs ago , and it worked vary will , at least when I was 17 I thought it sounded good. Never put the car on a dyno or anything to compaire before and after. Using the smaller plumbing would give low end but by being two it should also provide upper end as well. I am open to imput with this . thanks Gary:classic:

Ed , this is why I am asking . Running a duel exhaust would mean that each pipe would be like 11/2" and use only a glass pack of 20" or longer . The two pipes would be inter connected just before the mufflers to ballance and help stop the resonance and backrap on decelleration. I wouldent need any C. converters and no big rear muffler, just run the two pipes parellel and out the rear like stock , one over the other. I have done this in the past but a long time ago before over head cams and electronic ignitions and such . and it worked fine. I never tested the sixs on a dyno but on the big v-8 it was the only way to go. This systime sounded really good ,but I was young at the time and it was 48 yrs ago. These engines wire not putting out the performance that the Z is , this is a whole different breed of cat. Again this is why I am posing the question. GAry:classic:

In addition to the maintaince issue , did you think of the ammount of heat you would trap from the exhaust manifold ??

I have a question , years ago I owned another car with a inline 6 , and I modified the exhaust manifold to in stall dual exhaust . I used two 20" glass packs , and it sounded real nice , both inside and outside the car. I experienced zzero resonence , and I have heard time and again that it is a problem with the large piping. I am redoing alot of things on my '73 240 , and one is the installation of a modified 280 engine. Nothing drastic , just a street cam and milled head and 12--80 dist, and headers. I have a 21/2" plumbing systime I can stick on . My old exhaust was only the stock 240 , and was shot. So here is my question . What is the reason vary few of us Z drivers run dual exhaust ? Is it because of emissions and having to run duel converters ? Is it because of the tight space under the car ? I am just wondering because I am really contimplating a dual exhaust with 2" or smaller pipe off the headers. I am running SUs on this flat top engine , and have no emission concerns . this Z is for street use. I am asking this because most of my experience is with large V-8s and making them run , and this Z is a different bread of cat. Thank you for your input. :classic:

here is a web page that will ans. questions that you havent even thought of . geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html

It could still be the alarm system . In the future to check to see if it is the batt . turn on the head lights and then blow the horn . if the lights go dim it's the batt.

since you have pulled the head, and you are sure that the plug wires are correct and the timing has been done I really suspect the valve timing . It can easily be assembled off either way by a tooth . I have a ? why did you remove the injection and replace it with quad ? Just wondering

brian , If we are on for Mon . what time ? and what is your new email address ? G