beandip

HOW ABOUT THIS SPORTS FANS , WE HAVE A JUMP BALL ! do we connect the vacume or not .

If you can buy the complete car for $300. it seems like a no brainer to me , that is if you have a place to work on it. The block core alone is worth $200. . There is a member of the club phred , he builds these engines for a living and does wonders with the heads . Find him in the members list and send him a email about the heads. I see you live in SC , prices of cars and parts vary greatly when you are dealing in used , but the car sounds like a vary good buy to me. go to geocities.com/row4navy/head2.html :classic:

Is there any one here that knows the difference in the mechanical advance curve in these dist. between the units for a automatic trans and a manual. I know the automatic trans. unit is stamped # 9 and has stiffer springs than the manual stamped #8.5 . I am wondering at what RPM either is going to full advance, and when the vacume advance and the cintrifical starts on each. I have been running a '79 manual model for about 3 yrs on my L-24 , but now I am installing a slightly built 280 and I would like more info. in this area, thanks for any information and or direction as to where I can find it . Gary:classic:

????

on the adjustment of the round tops . When you reach under th e carb where the small fuel hose connects to the bottom of the carb there is an mixtrue adjustment. Turn this counter clock wise unitill it stops , then back it off clock wise 21/4 turns and start the engine and see how she runs . The back fire could be a lean pop and in this case just rurn the adjustment clockwise 1/4 turn. there is a section in the tec area on this . Gary

I was thinking of bolting a large Eye bolt through the roof and lifting it up and spinning it around I could attach it to beam of the garage and add a stiffiner plate in side under the roof. What do ya think? I shure would like to close the garage door since it is now 17 degs. and snowing and 20 MPH wind blowing and I am freezing my arse off. I SENT THE CAT HAIR TO THE F.B.I. AND THEY ARE DOING A D N A TEST. Were going to get to bottom or top of this , which ever comes first ! The dice came from Mexaco hum .

here is a site that will give you all the info. geocities.com/zgarage.2001/engine.html check it out. Gary

I am doing the same engine swap and at the moment both engines are an hour away , in storage. So I cannot look . If I remember right when I stripped the engines for storage the oil sending units had different size connection plumbing to the block. In any rate some time ago I read a posting and it was seconded several times by others to use only Nissan senders , for reliability . I am facing the same thing as well . Gary:classic:

Did you ever ask for a hand and all you got was the C L A P ?? Like the song says " thank God for unansered prayers " . When you ask for help you never know what is in store ??? Next time when I go to get the Beer and pizza I will lock the door !! I am not saying I know who did it but I also found fuzzy dice hanging from the rear view mirror and gold striping on the rear window, plus some white Cat hair . I dont have a cat, Hum ! ROFL

were you able to obtain the thicker spacer that installs between the intake and the carb ? Connecting the vacum line to the port at the base of the front carb is correct . Connecting the water line up that goes thorugh the intake manifold is wise if you live any where it is cold in the winter and 90+ in the summer. It evens out the temp and aids in warm up in winter and helps to cool the carbs in summer from conducted and raidiated heat from the intake and exhaust manifolds. The hose form the block to the air cleaner is supposed to have a PCV installed in it to aid in keeping the engine clean. The air pump is ok to keep if it is still working and not frozen . The air pump will not effect performance either way but will most likely be needed to pass emissions. When tuning the engine for emissions testing , set the mixture lean for the test and readjust to correct after you are done. the '73 Zs had trouble with vapor locking and with the flat top carbs , so Datsun installed electric fuel pumps and wrapped the fuel rail with insulation to help solve the problem. With the round tops you should not have any trouble if you are using the thicker bakeolite spacer and water going thorugh the intake. :classic:

This guy know what he is talking about . Thanks Phred long time no see.

I don't know about the hi milage oils . I , like you think it is just an addvertising thing. I did quite a bit of surching on the web and found a site that went in depth on the componets found in the different brands of oil , they covered about ten different ones. They went into the ash content and all sorts of different things and raited them for different applicatinons. Under load , high RPMs Heat, cold , how they were for forming sludge , all sorts of tests were made. Now I had been using Quaker state oil for the past 40+ yrs and was pleased to see that it scored in the top two . Quaker and Castrol GTX were almost exactly the same in all reguards and rated the top two. I have since changed to GTX because I can buy it at Cosco , and with four engines to maintain the price brake helps some. :classic:

I am running a splash pan but I dont remember any numbers on it when I cleaned and painted it . I have it off and in the attic at present and will take a look and see about the numbers. Gary

not really but it will allow for quicker shifts as the rpm will die off faster between gear changing. I personall do not like it but this is just me. Probibly the most felt change will be the ignition , now when I made the change on my engine the old stock 240 dist need new points , but I couldent believe the difference it made in the driveability . This and the use of 20w oil in the carbs.

I use a I used this same method on my mag wheels. :classic:

the large 21/2" plumbing will loose you low end power and torque. That coupled with the header . As for the SM needles I bought mine from Z-therapy and they were $30.00 if I remember correctly. The electronic ignition will provide you with much better performance and the engine will be smoother running. I went with a '79 280 ZX ignition. If you find one at the bone yard be sure to get the adapter that the dist. bolts on to , that attaches to the block . The 240 part will not work right and y ou will have trouble with the timing. I also picked up the coil and its hold down mounting . This is a 12v coil not the 8v of the 240 and it is larger in dia. . Go to the page geocities.com/zgarage.2001/engine.html scroll down and you will find instructions on how to do the install. One thing it states that you cannot use the stock tach this is incorrect if the tach does not work just reverse the wires. My 240 tach has been working fine for over two years . One thing with the SUs , they are capeable of suplying all the the engine can use and then some , even a stroker engine. This is with the correct needles. I dont know if your stock engine will benifet from the richer mixture . There are others here I am sure that have tried them on a stock L-24

what was mentioned in passing was the fuseable link. Some time in the past it must have been replaced with a solid wire and when a problem ocured it fried the systime . start at the starter and work back.

you may have a problem passing emissions with the round tops. For your information the dealers installed roundtops on cars when the new owners complained loud and hard about the poor prerformance of the new '73 and '74s I dont know if this helps , but this is the trooth. You might need to use the flat tops to pass the test and then change after that. I had to do this with my GTO when I lived in calif.

do you have a ace hardware store in the area if so check on them. I still think the insoluaters are too thin and that is the trouble. the INSULATER bake-o-lite parts that were used with the flat tops are too thin and the thicker ones is what you want. as far as black prpper and eggs are concerned use your best judgement, I saw Laurl and Hardy use rice in the radiator on one of there films. If you use that be sure to flush all the coolent and rust first so at least you can eat the rice with the pepper and salt seasioning. Seriously JB weld will do a number on the freeze plug. By the way you need the thicker insolater for the round tops any way . Helps stops the heat transfer to the carb. HAVE A GREAT CHRISTMAS , FROM ALL OF US IN PORTLAND OREGON !

take the hint ! there is a reason you havent seen many of these.

You will most likely get 50 different openions . Here is mine Quaker State or Casterol GTX in either 10w 30 or 10or 20w40 . Depending on the temp and miles on the engine .

First , there should be insolaters between the manifold and the SUs , there brown and made of bake-o-lite and about 5/16" thick. with them the studs should be the correct lingth. The only port that I can think of that requires a vacume line is on the front carb and that is for the vacume advance of the dist. , otherwise there is only fuel lines , one to each , and vent lines from the carbs to the air cleaner. As for the rest of the emissions stuff I only am running a PCV valve and cannot help you there . As for the bandade on the freeze plug, If it is just seeping there is a product called block seal that will most likely stop the leak . But if you are planning to pull the engine in the near future try some J-B weld. This is just a temp. fix either way. All the best , have a great Christmas.:classic:

welcome to the world of the Zcar. I am just about finished POR ing my '73 240 . I will try and answer your questions 1. first of all , to apply POR , and this is a must , it is a three step process . If not followed , I found that it just peals off. First you need to do as you are doing . Remove the loose rust and all tar mat and dirt. Spray the metal to be painted with Mariene Clean , which is PORs product, to remove the grease and dirt wax and such and it chemicaly treats the metal. Rince with water .Secound you then apply the Metal Ready , also a POR product , which etches the metal and chemicaly treats the metal and rust. Rince with water again . Now this is VARY important all the area to be treated MUST be dry and free of moisture, then it is ready to paint. It is best if it is not damp or raining. The moisture in the air will cause the paint to set up too quickly , unlike regular paint. It dries to a vary hard finish that cannot be removed with strippers or thinner. So if it gets into threads it must be tapped out with a tap or cleaned with a die on a threaded bolt. The co. sells a matting material that can be applied to the wet paint that is like fiberglassing the pannel , for small holes . If the metal is structural and is rusted badly and weakend it must be replaced by welding in a new pannel. They also have a puddy made of the same materal as the plint that comes in a tube like tooth paste that can be applied to pitted areas and smoothed , to restore the finish. There is no cheep place to buy , if you need to ask that dont bother with the repair , $31.00 a qt for the paint and I think it was $17. a gal for the cleaner and $23.a gal for Metal ready.

escanlon is going to have a shi# hemmerage:ermm: