beandip

thanks for the information.

the bar needed if you use the factory mount that you show in the picture is from a vary early 260 ! This bar has different bends so the bar will clear the diff. . It mounts in front of the diff. The one that mounts in back of the diff is a after market part. I dont have a digital camera sorry. By the way all of the end links are the same . When you find a early 260 and get down and look at the bar from the side you will see right away the difference. I have a friend that I think is going to part out a 260 that has one . I will see what he says. Gary

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The fuel pump question. I Have a '73 also but am running an electric only , it's one form a '79 RX-7 . They put out right at 3.5 psi and work great and the price is right. I bought mine at the bone yard for $15.00 and they are quiet . I have run in eastern oregon in the summer in traffic 110degs and no problem with vapor lock. This was with my L-24 engine I am rinning a ZX engine now and they have no provision for a mechanical pump so I am still good to go. If you decide to find one they are mounted on the driver's side ahead of the diff. , this is or the RX.:classic:

Are you pulling the head because you think you may have a blown head gasket ? Have you had the coolent systime pressure tested? Are you seeing any signs in the coolent of a leak, or in the oil ? Another thing is the coolent level droping? If the answer is yes to any of the questions , Pull the head. I agree with 2many on the wedge.

F-54 is the block from the ZX series cars. Still a 280 but the casting is enternally different , just the way the cylinders were supported has nothing to do with displacement. These are the latest evolution of the inline 6. I n boring a L-24 out to the larger pistons the side wall can get thin.

If the stink is stale like old gas , more than likely hoses from the evap. tank that is located in the passanger side fender well to the rear of the tire . These were fitted on Zs in the USA to try and catch the fumes and cause them to be burned by the engine. If it is a fresh gas smell , the filler neck to the fuel tank also passes through this same cavity an become brittle with age and crack , this could also be a sorce of the smell. If what your smelling is exhausts fumes, any opening in the floor where the hoses enter or if there is a crack in the calking across the rear of the floor. Or what was already stated the gaskets for the tail lights or rear hatch, they crack and leak. You see the Z disign creats a vacume to the rear of the rear of the car as it traveles along. If you open a window it will draw this vacume space forward and all the fumes will find a entrance in to the enterior. Also If the vent from the valve cover is not connected to the air cleaner , blow by is added to the mix.:classic:

It was a good show. And we had a great time meeting some fellow Z drivers. Had dinner and a few brews and talked cars and all sorts of things . vary enjoyable evening . Sorry you missed it , mabey next time. :classic:

You might check the gague it may not be reading correctly. You cannot always count on the gagues to be that accurate. You may not be overheating but the gague is off. Also the thermostat may be opening late . Check it in a pan of water and a candy thermometer to see when it opens. I use a double boiler so the reading is more accerate. I would do that first. you seem to think that the rad is good so check the thermastat. :classic:

down force is what the tests show no kidding. I will look further and see how many other tests include this sort of data. The test I am quoteing also shows the G-forces and degree of lean on turn at speed , compaired to other cars. The Z showed 1.03 hp per cu Inch. but I think that was at the flywheel. I dont think the early Z had 150 HP at the rear wheels.

for sure the bottom and yes no tail, well , no whale tail. GaryROFL

I have been hearing that about the 36 intake for years but havent seen any dyno data to back it up. No et times showing any difference either , of cource this would be open to question. Gary

bkiller I dident ask about the air dam but thanks for the info. rb-30-ZED , no it is different I dont have a scanner or I would send a page . This is a report on three different cars and as a compairson the '70 240Z , OPEL GT , MGB GT one and a third pages of results of testing of the three cars. as far as down force vs lift. the Opel GT front 130 lbs of LIFT and rear 155 lbs of LIFT and 230 lbs of drag. The MGB GT , front 70 lbs. LIFT and rear, 130 lbs LIFT and 285 lbs of drag. I don't know if any of this is of interest but I just thought I would pass it on I found it interesting because these were the cars of the era that were in compitition. All were priced at or near $3500.00 .

There is only a couple of things that it could be. The float level is too high or the shut off needle is not shuting off , leaking ,stuck, a little piece of crud stuck in the way of the needle, or the float has a hole in it and is sinking. All these will cause what you are describing. You dident just install a new electric fuel pump did you ? If so check the pressure .:classic: I dident ask if the float BOWL was filling up but the FLOAT ITS SELF.

killer you can seal # GF-23 port at the tank attach # 24 to the port on the filler neck where 22 is now connected. Connect the long hose that is shown going to the top of the evap tank, attach it to the port of the gastank by the 21 port is . This will eliminate the little evap tank and all that plumbing. then the holes in the floor of the car where all the hoses came through can be sealed off. To seal off the port on the tank use a 3" length of copper water pipe and seal deburr it on the inside and solder a cap on it then seal it with J b weld or POR patch smeared on the tank pipe and tap the copper piece onto the pipe, it is a tight fit but if there are no berrs it will slide on with vary little effort. :classic: by the way POR sells a kit to redo a fuel tank clean it out and seal it from the inside for $49.95 .

did you check the float to see if it has any fuel in it ? It may have a leak. or set so the level of the fuel is too high in the float chamber. :classic:

S.C.G. Stands for Sports Car Graphic It was a magazine that did testing like Motor Trend and Road & Track. They published compairisons of the new offerings when they came out and tested everything such as cornering, brakeing , stopping , brake fade milage as well as the aerodynamics. they show 15.5 lbs per HP on a '70 240 Z The book DATSUN Gold Portfolio is a 172 pages of tests and articles about the 240 and 260 Z and a little on the 280.

I have changed hundreds of u-joints but don't know what is ment by a spicer u joint. If they are like a conventional u joint you just remove the u shaped spring retaining clip on the outside of the bearing cap and press the bearing down and out of the yoke to the center, forcing the other cap out the back or other side of the yoke. Remove the bearing caps and repeat with the other side. I mark the yoke and shaft so I can assemble the unit as it was. When removing the parts if you dont have a press , use a drift about the size of the cap. A old socket will work but will be ruined. Place the socket or drift on the bering cap and strike with a hammer and force the parts out the other side like a press would have. When assembling just make sure the bering cap is square with the yoke so it dosn't bind or **** when you drive the parts together. I use my vice to assemble the thing rather than pound it to gether. Be sure to lube the unit because they are not lubed at the factory , only enough grease to hold the needle bearings in place. Use chassy lube and only enough to the point that you can see the rubber seal start to flex. If too much grease is forced in it can force the seal out of its grouve and it will leak the grease when it spins especially on the drive shaft. :classic:

one other thing , at least on my car , I am not completely stripping all the origional paint from the engine bay. Some rust repair was done in the battery area and was treated with the por systime . The entire engine bay was mariene cleaned after a sand blast and was also treated with metal ready. POR was applied to any bare metal however the painted surfaces were treated with the chemicals . Now It was recommended that this should be done to the painted surfaces before any por finish was applied. I am now top coating everything with tie-coat primer. in preperation for a complete paint job. The reason given is the mariene clean will leave a residue that the metal ready will nutralise sp the chemical.

they should have them . Check with midwestz first and see how Chloe's prices compair . Check Motorspot as well. I know they are spendy , around $100.00 I need one also but havent priced them yet. Gary

Bill I am doing this vary thing. I have dumped the FI as this F-54 is going in my 240 . I contacted Z therapy and bought a set of SM needles. I think it depends on what you are intending for the car . Street driver , this is what I am after. If for compitition thats another thing and you might look to tripples for top end performance . Gary

According to the tests that were done there was a down force of 95 lbs on the hatch at 100mph and 85 lbs on the front end , not lift. The drag to the rear of the car was calculated to be 240lbs at the rear of the car . by adding a spoiler, the small one that was on the early Zs with the addition of the spook , that it moved the vacume bubble back away from the rear of the car about 4 or 5 ft. if I remember right . I had all this data down loaded but I was recently infected and lost the Hard drive and all the information so I cannot back up this info . With the exception of the figures of the down force on the rear hatch and hood. I will keep researching my books for the info. This was brought up also as a way of helping the smell of fumes entering the rear of the car as a side effect. by the way the front suspension is mcpherison and the rear is chapman.

I installed mine about two years ago and it seems to me that it helped with the lightness feeling in the front end at speed. Later I read that this pan allowed the air flow to smooth out under the engine and did help the air flow through the radiator. But the thing I was more interested in was the reason that it supposedidly helped to eliminate the turbulance and of air building up under this area causing a lifting effect of sorts . Has any one had any indication that this is happining or is it just my imagination. Like when the " ricers" install a 6" exhaust tip and think it makes the car go faster. I sware that I did this installation before I read about it. It was after a speed run on the hiway and was bumped by a quartering gust of wind and the front end felt vary light in the loafers if y ou know what I mean. Now speed for me is a little over 100. Not fast by a lot of you , but plenty fast for me. My pan was painted black . The 240 is a '73 and my friend tried it on his '71 and the bolt holes dident match. :classic:

Also a real good sorce of stright information is to go to the members section and send phred a pvt massage of your question. This is his bag and he does it for a living. And he is a great guy as well. Gary:classic:

According to SCG on page 15 of the Gold Portfolio the forces on the 240 Z at 100mph is 270 lbs of drag including the tires . the LIFT to the body at 100 mph is - 85 lbs on the front and -95 on the rear. Which means positive down force . This is with out any air dam or spoiler. For what it is worth , I have noticed that the front of my '73 feels less light at speed after I added the sheet metal pan that was a factory mounted pannel or farring under the rad and front or the engine. I have read tests since, that have agreed with this , as was reported , helped to eliminate the air from building pressure in this area and helping to draw more of the flow from the engine bay. By helping to eliminate turbulance of the air traveling under the front vallance and crossmember. I have also added rear luvers on the hatch window , but I cannot feel any difference in the handeling in this reguard. :classic: to correct a miss statement the rear suspension is not Mc pherson , but is Chapmen strut type. Mc pherson is on the other end. No flame just information.