beandip

I contacted B-Quiet and got a sample set sent to me . I am going with the '' brown bread'' it comes in a roll and you cut it to fit with a razor knife or sissors. It is self sticking with a peal off backing .To do the whole car like escanlon did doors and all it is about $100. If I remember right . Mike G used this on his yellow jedda also. send him a question. The thickness is about the same as the Q pads but it is covered with aluminum skin so the exposed surface is not stickey or will rub off. :classic:

It sounds like fuel but this might be a red herring. If you have access to a coil , try a different coil. They can brake down when heated and cause the same thing you are describing. Any 12v coil will do. You did mention the fuel lines looked fine , did you look at the full length of them , just in case it was crimped or damaged from being struck by a rock or something. You stated that this problem has been going on for some time . Was it like this when you bought the car a year ago ? Or did it come on since you have owned the car ? Have you checked the pressure of the fuel since the new electric pump was installed,and between the regulator and the carbs? Have you tried to blow air pressure back toward the tank before the electric pump was installed . I dont think I would blow pressure through the pump so if you do this disconnect it first and blow air into the tank through the fuel line so if there is a blockage in the pick up you will clear it. There are filters in the inlets of the carbs also dont over look them if they are still installed.

If it has been a couple of years or so . Drain all the fluids and change with fresh. BEFORE you install the oil filter fill it half full or oil first . Remove all the spark plugs and squirt some oil into the cylinders , about a tsp. each . Leave the plugs out and pull the valve cover and pour oil over the cam and rockers then spin the engine with the plugs out to get the oil moving and keeping the cam oiled. then install the cover and the plugs . Using a little starting fluid wont hurt and start her up. Draining the fuel is a must and so is new fuel filters. Doing the fuel first is the best because when you turn the engine over you will activate the pump. So clean this first. :classic: Be aware that you may need to change the fuel filters a few times dependig on how much varnish and crud is in the tank. Hopefully it dident rust while inactive. Empty or near empty tanks have a tendancy of sweating with temp. changes and collect moisture and rust the bottom of the tank. If you find this is the case , POR has a kit to seal the insides of the tank. :classic:

And do NOT use sylicone sealer . If that stuff gets loose and in the oil it can clogg oil passages and couse all sorts of bad things. I some times use it but vary vary thinly and not on valve cover gaskets.

There is no doubt that there is an abnormal condition that you are experiencing . Especially when you state that the functioning of the wypers cause the radio to stop working . Who installed the radio and where did they get the power supply for it ? Was the wireing cobbed up to do the install? I dont know if this will make a difference in this case, but there should be a ground strap at the rear of the engine to the firewall to ground the block. I doubt that this would cause your problem but it will cut down on static on the radio. Here is a test that you can try . go out and turn on the head lights with the engine off as well as all other electrical items, just the head lights. Now blow the horn and watch the difference in the brightness of the lights. If they dim much at all have the battery checked. Have a load check done not just a meter that shows voltage. You need to see what it shows under load. Then go from there in your quest. 1st do the test 2nd clean all electrical contacts, grounds , all of it. 3rd charge the batt . and do the horn test again . 4th load test. Where I live they sell batteries at the tire shop and can do a load test. and will do it free. Good luck. Gary

Way back you said that you took the batt from a car that had NOT been driven regularly , did you put it on the battery charger??? First off before you can gague this voltage problem you MUST start with a good fully charged batt. The pulley size change is not a good idea unless you only drive slow ! They are sized so that they will generate enough rpm for the alt . or water pump or what ever to spin at a speed to do there job in a normal condition. Now have you looked at the head light bulbs ? Are they seald beams or have they been upgraded to halogen units? They will draw more current. You said that the battery connections were removed from the batt, did they get cleaned of all dirt and crud at that time. Is the surface of the batt clean ? If allowed to become dirty on the top or outside there will be a current loss that can be mesured with a meter there. As was stated before start cleaning ALL connections ,caroded connections will cause resistance and heat in the wireing and failure. When you start the engine DO NOT have any lights on untill the engine is running. After checking what I have just suggested the problem still exists I recommend that you have the electrical systime checked by a professional. :classic:

if there are any RX-7s around at the bone yards . The cars that are carbed use a great little fuel pump that is pirfect for the SUs and cheep at the yards . I bought mine for $15. and have beer running it for over 2yrs. and there quiet and no regulater is needed. Just be sure it is from a NON FUEL INJECTED CAR.

WHAT IF WHAT IF ! HOW ABOUT A VIPER V-10 this is starting to sound like zcar.com !

The recent International Auto Show was held in Ptln. and a few of us met with several of the club mambers of N West Z . They invited us all to attend the dyno day if we wanted .

I am in the Beaverton area by 217 & 26 . There is a local club,sort of , in the area . Mostly in the Salem area and they are haveing a dyno day on the 13th, by PDX . Seems like mostly they are 300 drivers. But there are a few of us around the area. Gary

check midwestz.com

I am not sure what you are doing. If you disconnected the vent line then the tank is drawing a vacume. What are you doing trying to out cleaver the designers of the Z ?

Not a good thing to run with out the PCV , this will cause the engine to severly build sludge. The PCV does not effect performance. :classic:

Dont you use the choke untill the engine warms up? This is what it is for to richen the mixture untill the engine is up to normal temp. If you adjust the mixture for a cold engine , it will always be too rich when it warms up. There is one more thing you can do is to use 20wt oil in the carbs . This will give a richer mixture for a secound off the line and help eliminate any stumble. This will not effect mileage or performance other wise only helps off the line from idle or low RPM.

Tomo , yes that is the pan . I dont have a digital camera sorry

datto go to the Technical articles and look for SUs adjustment

bambikiller, the only way that the tank will not fill completely is if the car is sitting on a steep incline leaning toward the filler neck and the thinner part of the tank is elevated . The amount of air trapped would only be about 1qu. This is on a 240 tank. I dont have knowledge of the configueration of the 280s . All that is being done here , is the air in the tank that is leaving when filling it with fuel, is being sent to the filler neck to the vent provided insted of the vapor tank. And the vent that runs to the front of the car, driver's side to the valve that is below the ballest resister. That vent line is attached to the fuel tank at the port oppisite the one that vents to the filler neck. This allows air to enter the tank as the fuel is removed. Get me a email address and I will send a diagram . I have a picture of my tank but the diagram that shows all the hoses and are numbered is better . I thought it was posted in this thread above. Gary I tried to send you an email but couldent:classic:

one minor thing not mentioned remove to spark plugs when spinning the engine to get the oil up and running then stick them in and start her up WITH THE VALVE COVER ON .

san-maru, I dont know what you are thinking ? the FI if in good order will supply your nearly stock 280 engine with out a problem. A pair of SUs will as well. As was stated , if you want to just get in the car turn the key at 10degs. or 110degs at sea level or at 9000ft elevation and you have the equipment and or knowledge to keep the electronics in order . The FI with out a doubt is a no brainer. Incicently you will need to change the fuel tank if you do with the injection. All this being said. I personally am running SUs .I am in the process of installing a '' warmed over '' engine . Head work , cam , ignition and headers with 2 1/2" plumbing . I can work on SUs and I know for my basicly stock engine they will supply amply. I personally do not have the smarts or the equipment to deal with injection. If carberaters were the best all the cars would have them ! Plane and simple but the emissions bug has changed everything . For performance either will work vary well. my 3cs

You would most likely get more response from the hibredz site

midwestz has the kit for $199. + shipping , and this is for all the glass , the hatch and both doors and under the hood as well. This is hard to beat I will give ztherapy a call but I think I am going with Chloe in any event. Thanks