beandip

Welcome aboard . I dont think I can be of any help to you here , I don't know a thing about a 300 other than they have 4 tires and look different than a 240Z:classic:

Some of the value will depend upon where you live. Higher on the east coast because of the salt rusting away so many of the older cars. You said that there was some rust bubbeling in the paint on the door. This is most likely coming through from the back side. It was said eailer that rust is the largest cost with these cars and it is so vary true. Lift the carpets and look at the metal of the floors on both footwells . Look below the battery in the engine compartment , the frame rail passes under the batt. look close there. The rust in the lower sil of the hatch can just be the tip of the ice berg there as well. If the floor pan is shot , you are looking at about $1000. + to have one done right. Mag wheels are not plentifull for these older cars , so dont assume that you can just go to the local tire shop and look at a selection. You said the interior was in good shape , this is good . Is the dash cracked and , or , does it have a cap on it . These are some things to look at. All the electrical components should be in working order , wypers , heater fan and so on. Good luck Let us know what you find. Gary

When the evap tank is removed .The air that is in the fuel tank when the car is refuled is vented into the filler neck and out of the car. This is the difference . In most of the states there is a rubber seal on the dispenser nozzle that will capture these fumes. The vent line that runs from the three way valve , this should be connected to the fuel tank to replace the air volume in the tank as gas is being used. Eliminating all the vent lines and the evap tank helps greatly to eliminate the smell of stale gas in the cabin of the car. In fact it should stop it altogether.:classic:

Echo , I have a really good piece of advise. Buy a repair manual ! The best is a Nissan shop manual but they are not cheep. You can find Chilton or Haynes on e-bay for about $9.00 . In there you will find the information you need. Fireing order how to adjust things and make repairs. To have your Z run in good order and keep it that way, there is basic knowledge needed that is specific to Z cars. Some times you can find these manuals in the used book stores. Here on this site is a good place to get information , but for reference get the books. Check out the Tec. pages there is a ton of good info there.

dont use wd-40 on guns and reels either. On gun actions & reels it turns to gum over time. It displaces water great but will not protect metal from rust vary well and is just so so for a lube. Another thing it is good for , as a replacement for starting fluid for a hard starting engine. Just spray some in the intake giving about a 5 sec. spray and start the engine . Here is Oregon fisherman spray the bate with it for Salmon , no kidding. As was stated before there are far better products for penitrating oil. I think KROIL is the best and PB blaster is a close secound, it is just the smell of the blaster is so strong and it stinks. :classic:

If you are running a # 36 intake manifold hang on to it and just change the carbs. You will be vary happy with them as they are easy to tune and work great. They use the same intake that you have you just need the linkage and air cleaner for the SUs. You might contact Ztherapy . They are the A # 1 source for info on these. :classic:

My '73 had a vinyl top at one time , there were holes in the roof where the chrome strip went just above the hatch. There is a '77Z that a lady drives that works at the bank, and it is clean , clean , clean. It has a vinyl top , the first one I have seen up close and in person. The dealers tried to add some things to the cars to buck up the prices since they came with almost everything that was wanted. Tops and mag wheels and the bumper strips on the fenders.

I dident count the celing . I have four duplex on the celing and six 4' double floro lights . One of the wall duplex outlets is covered with a refer full of Bud. I count ten total. No 220 . No welder . :classic: I insulated the walls and replaced the garage door with an insulated one . When it is + 20 out side I can get it to a comfortable 45 to 50 with a propane heater .

I AM OUT OF HERE GONZO

A vary good sourse is midwestz.com Chloe is vary good and helpful she deals mostly with Nissan parts but some times after market and I have even bought used from her. Midwest Z is a sponser of our club here . Give them a look. GaryROFL

I just read a test results that was done by Motor Trend on the early '71 240. The results at 1/4 mile times was only .5 sec slower for the automatic . 82.0 for the auto and 84.5 for the manual four speed. The test cars got 21 miles per gal for the stick and 19 for the auto. Now my L-24 was getting 23 on the hi way with the automatic , but I havent had the speedo checked . I have read some test results that the turbo will be faster with the automatic because it keeps the turbo spooled up between shifts witch is quicker. I guess it all boils down to the fact that there is a "POT FOR EVERY BUTT " . All the best to all. Gary

Damn I wish I could be of help here , but I dont know a lick about 280s . Try Carl Beck sind him a pvt message .:classic:

Thank you all for your prayer and kind thoughts. The latest information is that one lymph node was also involved and she will need radiation as well as keimo. She has a positive attitude and is just wanting to get on with the treatments. And is healing well . Thank you all Gary

My other car was a Jeep Lorado and it had a 5 speed. I wanted the manual because it was a 4 X 4 . I drive for the most part in the city and on freeways about 20% in the open road and mountains. I like the automatic for the ease of driving in town and the performance is fine , for a street driver. At least for me . Sitting is gridlock with a stick can be a pain in the neck . I agree that a true sports car being driven as a sports car is better with a manual , at least it feels more like you are part of the car and how it performes. :classic:

If the batt goes dead since the alarm systime was installed and it was ok before , by all means take it back . Something is connected wrong. The systime on stand buy for only a few days shouldent effect the battery hardly at all.

First of all , thank you , all of you for your responce it means alot to me and my family. She came through the operation fine and the Dr. said that he dident find any supprises. That can be taken either way . We really wont know much more untill the lab results to see how far things have gone. They said that the chances of this happening to someone so young is 1 in 20,000 . I know that they have been doing wonders with the treatment of canser and it is no longer an automatic death warrent . But never the less it's still hard on every one in both familys. Thank you all again Gary

My '73 with a L-28 is an automatic. When I bought the car the first thing I was going to do was make the change to a 5 speed. I decided to drive the car for a while before doing so and am glad that I did. It's been 3 yrs now and no way do I want to change. Now , this car is a driver and I do not race , at least on the track, and do not plan to. As long as there are parts available if and when I need repairs , I will continue with the automatic. My 2c:classic:

here you go. midwestz.com contact Chloe she will help you and she has vary good prices. If you dont buy from her at least she will give you the info you need. Gary

just check the local auto parts store, they have more than one level of quality . you get what you pay for . :classic:

she is undergoing surjury for canser a double masectomey in the morning . I am asking for your positive thoughts and prayers. I know this is an un usual request here but I ask a favor of you all. thank you Gary she is only 30 and has a baby 15 months old.

Carl , the people that were having trouble with filling the tank were eliminating both large vent lines and using the small vent line from the top of the tank to do the venting to the filler neck. This caused a vary slow fill and fuel belched back up the filler neck because of the volume of liquid going in the tank was greater than the small vent line could handel . That or were using the lower vent line from the small end of the tank that is submerged when the tank is a little more than half full. Once the vent was submerged it couldent vent the air to the filler neck and the belching and slow fill was again the problem. Nissan does make the hose to do this "mod" , from what I have learned the evap tank was not required in all venues and was vented as Rick and myself have stock. Chloe has the hoses at $29. a copy. Again I don't know about the 280s tanks I havent seen one , just the '70 -- '73 Z .

Be aware that the floors and trans tunnel act as part of the frame . Much less the rockers. I just replaced the floor on the passanger side of my 240 and repaired the drivers side. I cut away the old floor and preped the perimeter of the floor area so that it was clean and ready for welding and i fitted in the new floor pan . A pan form Zed Findings. I installed the pan with self tapping sheet metal screws at about 4" spacing . The certified welder I hired Tig welded the perimiter and pulled the screws and filled the holes as he went, This cost me just over $600. all total. He did the job in his spare time at home over a couple of weekends. A good deal for the both of us . Frame rails are another matter , I recommend contacting Charlie Osborne at Zed Findings , he has the vary best products , better than origional. After all the welding was finished I sand blasted the whole area that was worked on and treated all bear metal with POR following the recommended three step process, this is a must if you are using POR paint. Otherwise the paint will peal right off if not preped correctly . If all you are woried about is dents and not rust , if you are not building a concors show car , pound out the dents . The replaceing of all the sheetmetal is a costly under taking. I had estimets of $1300.00 for my job, so shop around.

YES ! Fix one thing at a time ! if you do change plugs use only NGK they work the best in these Zs trust me. Just the standard ones no platnum. Is the engine backfireing? or just missing under load. For now concentrate on when the engine is warmed up for any testing . All cold engines will act up when cold. 1st . did this all happen since you worked on the wireing? If so what did you do ? look there. 2nd look inside the dist . cap and clean the contact free of any crud and see if they are burned same for the rotor. If a dist with points check to see if they are pitted or have a spike . if either replace them. and the condencer as well. When at idle does the engine misfire? if it is missing put on some gloves and remove a plug wire and see if the engine changes speed . do this one at a time the bad one the engine will not change speed. If you find one that seems bad , try this plug in a different cylinder and see if it still missfires. You could have a bad plug wire. I agree it sounds like ignition especially since you said it was missing. Also check the vacume advance if equiped with one. I hope you are aware that just because the temp gague says the engine is warmed this may not be the case . It takes a while for the engine to properly warm up so have patience here. I dont know of your experience level. Its 1:30am time for bed . Good luck

I wish I could help but I replaced the fllat tops with round tops and got rid of all the hoses and dont have a clue. Sorry:cry:

GO TO THE TEC. SECTION AND SCROLL DOWN AND FIND THE ENTRY ON SETTING THE SUs . Many mechanics now days do not understand carberaters they work on injection and plug in to a computer that tells them what is what. The low tec early Z is a different breed of cat. and so are SUs . They are super simple to adjust , you just need to have a couple of tools . One being a uni-sun which is a devise that will show you the air flow being drawn into the carb so you can ballance both units . this and a screw driver and you are good to go. uni-sun $25.00 at a good parts store that has a speed section. Victora British as well. As for the valves clicking is the sound light or loud ? If only a minor clicking and if there is no visual damage ,if you can ignore it this may be the way to go. Just as long as there isnt a broken spring or a damaged lash pad or cam lobe. If a valve is a little loose it is better than too tight. I think you should try the carbs and then have a mechanic listen to the valve noise and evaluate the sound. That is if you know one you can trust. like 59 said check the springs and 2many said check the wear pattern on the cam it should be shinny and smooth on all the lobes , compair them to oneanother if one is worn you may have a flat cam.