beandip

If you go to the tec section there is a step by step walk through on how to do this. When you lift the piston, this does disable the carb and the engine is running on the other one, if the engine dies that carb is too lean , if it stumbles but continues to run its ok. If on the other hand continues to run smoothly it is too rich. Adjust it accordingly and repeat the whole thing on the secound one. So you lift the piston on the rear carb and adjust the front one . Then lift the front piston and adjust the rear one .Read the teck "how to " and it covers lean pop as well. Gary:classic:

I have done some floor pan replacement on my 240 . You should check with charley Osborne at zed findings . He makes the pan I used and has top quality stuff. I dont know about stuff for a ZX but its worth a check. I used POR to treat the rust and all bare metal after sand blasting . There is another product call Rust Bullet sold by Eastwood I think. It is supposed to be as good and easier to work with . I havent tried the stuff but I know the POR and elected to use it. zedfind@kos.net is Zedd Findings.

NO Bill not the glass rubber , the HINGE rubber seal, It's like a cup that completely covers the hinge up inside the roof.

As was already stated there is no advantave with the turbo block. The blocks are the same . Its the pistons. The F-54 block is the latest evelution of the inline 6 for Nissan and supposidly the strongest. :classic:

I am in need of a pair of rubber seals . They are the rubber seal that wraps around the hinges on the rear hatch of a 240. I have tried the local dealer and midwestz . Help if you can or if you know of a place I could contact . I have a email into Charlie Osborne . .thanks

Damn , I hope so ! This about the same thing I am installing , only I went with the P-79 head and milled it .030 for about 9.5 but I dident over bore. Let me know how things work out for you . I should be up and running the latter part of May. I am doing the body now and soon as the weather is right will paint. This is what is holding me up. The Z is a rolling shell at present . GaryROFL

if you have a compressor I have one that works with a air hammer let me know . I am in beaverton. Gary

I have installed the floor ,pans from Zed findings and my openion they are the best and recommend them. They are strong and fit with little fitting required. yes you can most likely find a cheeper way to go , but not better. If you want cheep cut the floor out of an old rust bucket for your rust bucket. If yu want to do it right then look into ZED FINDINGS . With the rust being the most deadly problem with these cars , curing the problem correctly should be a nobrainer. my 5c :classic:

Buy the way , great picture. Looks like the rest of the underside is clean . I see that you are in Oregon , I am in the ptln area , if you are close I have a couple of " pickle forks'' if you want to borrow one . I have one that works with a air hammer you can use if you have air compresser. There is a pair of tie rod ends on ebay right now for around $40.00 .

Well this is what their called, for lack of another term. they are two disks seperated by ball bearings , one is attached to the vacume advance . These balls are held in place with plastic keepers, after 30 years of heat they usually fail and the balls fall out. This alters the advance curve. There are counter weights mounted below these plates , which when they spin with the main shaft also effect the timing and take over the job of the vacume advance, as the engine speeds up. You will note that there are numbers stamped on the counter weight assembly. These denote weather the springs and assembly is set up for an automatic or manual trans. If you take the dist to a ignition specialest to have the advance curve changed , these springs are what is changed . Allowing the ignition to advance the timing at what ever RPM you want . Hope this helps. Gary , by the way I sent midwestz a email last night and received a reply this morning. They are still there .:classic:

I don't know about Texas but here in Or you have some time to contact the Ins. Co when you buy a car. It's a few days and maby as much as a week . Get on the phone asap and as escanlon said dont be too quick to sigh this off. You wont be dealing with stupid people here , this is what they do day in and day out. Best of luck , sorry for the bent car. They may want to just total it , remember to them it is just an old car. :classic:

Bill , I would like to give you some advise that I hope you listen to. Forget the idea of doing a over haul yourself. You are getting in over your head here. I praise you for having the ambition to do it , but it is obvious form the questions and answers you have that you need much much more experience. You should keep an eye on ebay and find a Nissan shop manual , this is the most important tool that you should be looking for. You are looking to be spending some serious bucks here , and if one thing is done wrong it could be serious and ruin everything you have worked on. There is no way to know what parts you are going to need , or the sizes , untill you dissamble the engine. If you do go with a new cam you must also replace the rocker arms and lash pads as well . Valve seals and a valve grind also. Depending on the head you may need hardened valve seats. The cam is cheep , it's all the other stuff that gets costly.

The breaker plate was $45.53 Stator was $12.63 the pick up coil is $38.06 compare with the local dealer's prices. Send me a pvt email gary

It looks like the boot is torn . Take a close look at them , if there are any holes in them repace them. Get some PB Blaster and soak the rust on tie rod adjustment nut . This will help to make the job easier. how do you know the tie rod ends are bad ? is there looseness and movement in the end? When you jack up the front is there play there ? If so you are on the right track. Buy the way midwest number is 316-706-1601 I am going to try the email address and see if I can get through . Gary

Sounds like you just need to let the engine warm up . Untill it does it requiers a richer mixture of fuel this is why the choke is used , or suposed to be used. As for the trans. there are no "belts" in the trans. If it is slipping then you need to find a good trans. repair shop. One thing that might help you with the off the line stumble is to use 20wt oil in the carbs. this will cause the piston in the carb to rise just a slight bit slower allowing for a richer mixture of fuel . This is only for a instant but enough to cure a lean mixture start stumble. One thing , just because the temp gague reads in the the middle , this is only a reading at the sensor at the thermostat and is not necessarly tilling you that the engine is at normal running temp. It takes a while to warm the entire engine , use the choke untill the engine no longer needs it. You will find that as the engine warms you can slowly move the choke leaver foward untill the engine is at temp and the choke is off completely.

your going to find that you are about 2 years to late to find 240s in the bone yards with gas caps. You can tighten the set on the gas cap by bending the " contact ears " down just a little .

If you go the the tech. page and scroll down there is a how to on SU adjustment. Step by step. :classic:

I have Farmers and I told my agent that I was dismanteling the Z for a overhaul , not a restoration , and that it was to be down for about a y ear. He wrote a policy that covers the car for fire and theft and if it is trailered for work being done . $9.00 a year. When the car is driveable and I want to get it on the road . I will have meeting and he will write a agreed upon value policy. He indicated that they would be compairable to Hagerty. When the time comes I will see . There is another ins. co American Collectors Insurance Inc. 498 Kings Highway North Cherry Hill , New Jersey 08002 So there is another one. They quoted me for $6500 value $78.00 per YR. Like the other specialty policies they require a locked garage , and have various limits on mileage driven. They also require a daily driver. Gary

Datsun-F , One thing that is a supprise to owners is that primer is porus and allows moisture to contact the metal underneath. This is why people find rust under the paint sometimes . If the car is sanded to baremetal and primed and driven for a while before painted with a top coat . Rusting can take place , and then when top coat is applied it seals in the rust . When sanding the car with the D A be on the lookout for this and also bondo . Bondo will also allow moisture in and the same thing can happen under it . Sand the edges to bare meatal as you go to see if you find any rust. To just remove all the paint , just because , can be making a lot of unneeded work for your self. If bondo or any body filler has been applied over holes drilled through the metal and these are exposed to mointure , remove the bondo and either braze or solder the holes ,before applying the filler.

Razor, Motorsport had them and you could try V B . If the cap it's self is not damaged you can replace the grbber gasket. A new cap is $ 59.95 at Victoria British

I have been told that you can topcoat right over the self etching ptimer but you need to sand it first if a certain amount of time has passed . I am sorry but I cannot remember how long for sure and dont want to give the wrong information . Ask escanlon he knows:classic:

Shifting the tranny with out the use of the clutch is hard on the clutches inside the transmission . They are there to align the gears so they don't clash when the change is made normaly. If you force the gear change the strain on the metal disks will cause undue wear . this also happends when a speed shift is done . If you dont know what that is . It's when you keep your gas peddel to the floor and just hit he cluch and shift as fast as you can . If NOT done right the engine and or trans will act like a hand gernade. Done correctly it keeps the engine RPMs spooled up. This is done in cycle raceing all the time and I used to do this in my street raceing days and only dropped one trans. . This is hard on the running gear and the wallet .

If you live near a Harbor Fright they have peckle forks for less than $6.00. Check with midwesz.com for the new tie rods . they are a sponser here and give us a good price on parts. Gary

I went to the dyno shop for a local club's dyno day and one of the employes ran his Turbo Sentra . He had a nitrus set up but dident use it . Diden't have a bottle connected. turned 720Hp the first pull and cooled it down and then turned 740 Hp the next time. I don't know his name but you could call the shop and talk to him. the shop is Torque Freaks Portland Ore. :classic:

You need a new braker plate. Contact Chloe at midwestz.com . You dident say anything about what ignition that you are running. I just rebuilt mine it's a '79 ZX Chloe at midwestz saved me at least 30% they are a sponser of the club , be sure to mention it. If you ask she can send you a diagram of the dist with the part numbers . Gary:classic: