beandip

They are rubber. And the ones on ebay sold in 10 min. to buy it now. They have been NLA for a long time. Just need to go used , or ripair mine. Unless some old stock shows up . :classic:

try loosening the belt and see if it stops. Rub a bar of soap on the V porton of the belt , then start the engine . This is only a temp. fix but some times there is a glaze on the belt and or pullys. If you just replaced the alternator , check on the alignment of the pulleys . If you have the unit a little forward or back that it should be it will cause the belt to make noise plus it will not last vary long.

I started on my '73 a little over a year ago . An am now working on the body and the mulitude of little dings and a few small dents. The thing I have found here is the poor bondo work that was done in the past . Body filler will alow moisture to penetrate and if holes are drilled through the sheet metal and covered with filler , rust will start under the filler and spread untill the filler cracks and falls off. Just a hint for future repairs. Either lead or braze the holes closed , then filler. I am like you and want to do things right. I cut out a rust riddled passanger floor and fitted in a unit from Zedd Findings. I had it tig welded in and treated the bare metal with POR , after sandblasting twice . At present the Z is a rolling shell . All the glass is out , also the engine and trans. All the wireing is removed , the gas tank is out and has been treated with POR. The dash and all the interior is out . Most of the body work is done and soon I will be primering and sanding in prep. for paint. I hope to have her up and running by the 4th of July but I dont think I can do it by then. I went over all of this because I want you to see what you are looking at , to do it right. As 2many said your time table is vary short, and your cost of body and paint is on the light side if you want it right. You can have it painted for under a grand and the body worked on also. If you want a 20 20 car. That is it looks good at 20 ' going 20 MPH. A truly fine paint job if you do most of the removing of the chrome will run about $3000.00 or so. Plus body work.

I received the ISUZU gaskets and they are about 1/3 the size of the Zs . Not even close. Back to the drawing board. I am going to try and repair mine and also make my own. I will post what comes of the latter option. Thanks to every one and if you come up with a sorce from a different breed of car that will work , pass on the info. :classic:

Zman , A friend , that is also a member , builds Z engines for raceing and with headers he recommends the heavy duty gasket from Motorsport. He says they will last and last and they even have used the same one after removing the headers more than once and reinstalled .

I dont know what plastic parts you are talking about. As for the seat mountings . For one I used a saws all to do the removal of the old flooring. I did use a spot weld cutter on the spot welds on the trans tunnel and on the rocker rail. The new floor extends beyound the seat supports so I just cut away the bad sheet metal of the floor on each side of the support and ground off the spotwelds on a bench grinder . when the pan was reinstalled the seat mounts were welded in at the same time. Your seat mounting may look shakey , but after you clean them up you will most likely change your mind. They can be repaired if needed or you can find replacements at the Bone Yard. D Fever take a look at zeddfindings.com .:classic:

Chloe is the contact person for midwestz.com One thing you might do is to find a module in a bone yard . If not just to see if it is what is bad , but it wont hurt to have an extra . New they are not cheep. But Chloe has vary good prices if you must buy new.

When you buy the Z , come back and we can help.

Why are you bothering with the diff.? they are a dime a dozen. If you have the front cross member loose and mustash bar loose , unbolt the half shafts and the diff should be free. you must drop the front cross member to remove the diff..

Before you start cutting with a torch stop here . I just replaced the passinger foot well in my '73. What you need to do is evaluate the rest of the pan. Remember the flool pan is part of the frame , all is interconnected with a unabody construction. If the major portion of the pan is ok you can have patches tig welded in. If the rust has compromised the pan and it is thin and not sound , dont screw with it and replace it . Zedd Findings sells the best floor pans period . His are the ones on Motorspots . Charley Osborne is the owner of the co. and he is vary helpful. You don't want to cut away the sheet metal untill you have the replacement there so you know how much to cut. If you decide to go this route let me know and I will walk you through it . I have pictures I can send you of before during and after if needed. Do you have any help ? Another thing where are you ? I am in Oregon. Gary

What is the car ? Injected or not? what if anything have you done ? It helps to know what ignition that you are using , and so forth. We are willing to help but neend help from you. No spark , is the ignition switch good? Is there power to the coil ?

The best bang for your bucks would be to install a 390 differential, that is after you tune the engine which mostly is just adjustments. Just a word here , make vary sure the brakes are in good working condition and the car is safe before you start thinking of how fast it will go. I dont want to read about you killing some family because you were out of controll and couldent stop. I know you don't want to hear this but with these cars come responsibility. Good luck.

I just took a look at W kid's gallery picture . I think Allen's right some welding is in order big time before even thinking of speed. If the rest of the car looks anything like the picture , I am sorry .

I was wondering about using nitrus my self . I was talking to one of the men at the speed shop and from what he was saying a 75 shot would be safe . I think it would be a great kick in the butt , no pun intended.

I recently went to a club function and it was at a dyno day. They were putting there Zs on the dyno . One of the cars '79 running about 11 to 1 compression, head work headers and a hot cam the pulled 152Hp to the rear wheels on 100+ gas. and it was running strong. There was a supura there owned by one of the techs that were running the dyno his inline six on gas turned 740Hp and not on nitrus . He did it twice , the first run of the three when he punched it in fourth gear he broke the rearend loose so bad it went to red line . They put two big guys in the back for weight and then turned the 740s . This is a twin turbo and he has a nitrus setup but dident have a bottle in the car. As you said speed costs money , how fast do you want to spend.

Finding the bottom end of these engines to be in good shape seems to be common. These are vary good engines and will run will over 200K and will do it before a rebuild if taken care of and not abused. Good luck with the project. This is a great time to learn and spend time with your dad at the same time. Great for the both of you. :classic:

Chloe has rebuilt units if you need one. I just replaced the insides of my '79 dist. It ended up costing me about 2/3 the cost of a rebuilt one from midwestz.com . This is with out a module. If I remember correctly about $70.00 I think she can get all the parts if you want to go that route. What I have found is that the braker plate goes bad , the plastic holders for the ball berrings that are sandwitched between the two disks fail and the ball fall out. this desables the vacume advance for the most part and there are parts flying around when they fall down into the weights spinning below. Then all sorts of bad things happen. Bottom line with a bone yard unit is that the plate is still 25 or so old and the heat has been working on the plasticparts. I bought a secound dist and it had a bad plate also.

You could be 180 degrees out , this may be why you hear firing out of the exhaust. Remember the engine could be at top dead center and not on a compression stroke ! And yes the cam timing could be off but check the timing first . What I do is pull the plugs and turn the engine with a socket on the crank with my finger on the plug hole . You will know when the compression stroke is and then shine a light in the hole or insert a length of copper wire so you can see the movement to TDC. Then start her up. :classic:

I was having electrical problems in my '73 comming from PO cobbing up the wireing. Things like the elect fuel pump would continue to run as well as the engine , if I turned off the ignition with the head lights still on. Just little things like that . My friend and I removed the entire wire loomb completely and I am replacing it with a good one that has not been chopped into. From a parts car. Because the Z is not my sole trans. and I have a garage to work in this helps. Some times when people start trying to modify these cars and they really dont know what they are doing it can all go to hell in a hand basket. Hang inthere and do things right. Keep youre eyes on the prize . When your done you will have a beautiful car unlike the bloted new ones that are now being stuffed down our gullets. Did the Euro. Zs have the flat top carbs ? If so dump them . All the best to you . Gary I would send a picture but I dont want to depress you any farther . , on secound thought it might cheer you up , since I have so far to go before my Z is road worthy.

Is this a all stock engine , other that the slight over bore ? I agree , if it is as you say , the rebuilt head alone would be about $500. . If I needed an engine I would be hooking up my trailer. Did you have it in a 240 or was it in the ZX when you had the crash? In the future it would be helpful to have your location listed in your profile. We have members here from all over the world . Best of luck with the sale , and hope you can find another Z. Gary:classic:

Zeiss150 I tried to post last night but was having trouble with the PC. From your description , it sounds to me like there are more than one thing going on. First check the plug wires to be sure they are in the right fireing order. Secound check the timing with a timing light , you said the eingine will run right ? If these things check out . Cam timing is my next thought . Only if you had the head off , or the timing chain off. As for the deiseling , this could be from a rich fuel mixture. Are you running SUs or what? Often the poping back thru the carbs is from a lean situation , but with the deiseling and spraying fuel , not likely. Another thought . What dist. are you using ? There could be a malfunction in a module of an electronic dist. All together it sounds to me like ignition coupled with a rich mixture , check the float levels , if they are set too high this could cause the richness also make sure the chokes are adjusted correctly so that they are off when the lever is all the way forward . Also in this area , see that they are not sticking open . If when you touch the mixture adjustment knob of the carb it snaps up or clicks up a little , this could be the fuel problem. This is about all I can think of . All the best , Gary

$1000.00 sounds like a vary good price , all complete. You shouldent have any trouble selling it I don't think . Best of luck . Sorry to hear of the total on your Z . What year Z was the engine in ? I am just wondering as I am installing a '82ZX with SUs in my '73 . Gary

I got an email from a guy that said the Isuzu Implse uses a hinge gasket that is vary close and will work. I have to find a dealer to call to see if they have any to look . He said that he thought '80---'83 . If any one checkes it out before I have a chance ,post it. I will just as soon as I can . Thanks Guys ,Gary:classic: Up date . They are from a '83 and are still available . I havent seen them in person but have ordered a set and they will be in on Friday the are just under $30.00 for the set. They come right and left . This is all I know , I have mine and one is intact with a little hole but the rubber is not too good. Good enough to be able to compare . I will let everyone know what I find out. :classic:

What I said in my first post was to use either PB Blaster of Kroil on the rusted nut and threads . I still stand by it , if you soak it and leave it set for an hour or so and give it a try . If it is still stuck soak it again . you may have to do it several times and maby let it set over night . In all the rusted bolts and nuts I have had to pull apart I have only had one that it dident work. Heating it with a torch is of cource another option . I am still in Beaverton and will help if I can , that is is you are close. Gary

Killer . What I am talking about is the rubber seal that wraps around the hinge that keeps the water from entering the cup or space the hinge sets in the roof. It seals off the cavity. I dont have a dig. camera sorry . It fits over the hinge like a sock .They are made of rubber that is less than 1/16'' thick. gema I went to midwestz first thing as was in my first post here. But thanks any way. OZ man I'll take a look at e bay thanks. I have been looking I must have missed it.