beandip

One thing that enters in to this is high RPM . This will add stress to the chain and in a big way to the surface of the tensioner. So in addition of age this can cause failure . Constant rpm will have a positive effect here as well , so an engine driven on freeways at constant speed or long distances will show less wear for the miles driven. This is why it is so difficult to predict the life of any engine or component . My 2cts Gary

first the R-200 I dont know what you are puting it into , but I installed one in my '73 and used the 240 half shafts. You need the mustashe bar and the bolts that secure it to the diff, they are different from the 180. The m. bar is installed with the purches forward unlike the 180. The 5 speed will require some modification of the tranny tunnel to accomodate the shifter. I havent done this mod so others can fill in here . The ignition will work great , you will need to get a different module , it must be marked 12 80 , other wise it will retard at rpm because it needs the computer hook up . One from a '79-'80 are the correct ones. Your origional drive shaft will be needed and I dont think it will need modification , again I havent done this mod but the 2+2 is longer in this area. If this is going into a 240 and you are going to run SUs as I am . You will need to get a electric fuel pump. The later head has no option for a mechanical pump. You can find a RZ-7 pump from a '79-'80 non fuel injected car for about $15.00 at the local bone yard. If you are converting to injection then there are other issues involved such as fuel tank . I went to SM needles in the SUs to handel the increase in displacement. :classic:

David , at 140K you should be fine , in the future if and when you pull the head for a valve job or if you are going to rebuild the engine , I would then replace the chain and sprokets as well as the tensioner. To answer the question it should go to 200K miles. Alot depends on how hard the engine is pushed or has been pushed. If abused anything can happen. :classic:

What are they off of ? There is a member that is asking me to find him a pair of SUs . He is from the UK . If these are workable for a 240 ti would save a lot of shipping and fuss . Gary:classic:Nigel Sorry I thought you were form the Uk. :stupid: :stupid:

For starters it sounds like you need a valve job . Having compression of 130 on four cylinders and 90 and 115 on two. This is not good. Ed is right the cam is only one thing and the cheapest part of a cam up grade. I think from what you have said , you are asking the wrong questions. I dont think the cam change is where you want to spend your limited dollars. I am in the same situation with the cash flow. Insted of driving by t he speed o meter . Watch the tach and feel where the power band is . When you take the engine in first gear to 4500 and shift , the engine should pull hard and take her to the same in secound , and see what it pulls like in third. Be mindfull of the speed at that gear change and how the engine pulls. I say 4500 only because of the lag because if you try for that number it will likely be at 5000 +. I think you are under RPM ing the engine expecting it to have the tork and pull from too low of RPM . Adjust the valves first because if loose you could float a valve and blow a piston. Especially if you have a weak valve spring in the mix . You havent mentioned how many miles sense the engine was rebuilt. Or a complete valve job was done. With the number given it seems ready for a valve job now or in the near future. Change the rear end gear ratio to a 3.90 to 1 and the car will pull like a woonded bull. These engines will spin high RSs stock but at 30 yrs bad things can happen fast if not in good repair. My 2 cs

be sure to use hardened bolts on the engine stand. :classic:

sounds like dirt or crud in the shut off valve or the shutoff is shot. If you are sure you adjusted the float correctly , that can only be the answer. messing with it with a file or sand paper will not do anything but make it worse. Unless you have installed the wrong fuel pump and it is putting out too much pressure.

welcome to the wonderful world of the flat top carbs. My advise is to throw them in the shi& can and find a pair of round tops. You will be so much better off and satisfided. There out there to be found , I picked up a couple of sets as spairs . I do know of a guy that has some for for sale . If you want let me know and I will pass on the number . send me a pvt message or a email.

Give danny's datsuns a try and datsun dude another is Too intense restorations.

the difference is that the linkage rod that connects the two carberators is too short. If you cannot come up with one from a bone yard or someone on this site get back to me I know a guy that might have one , it's just that he is hard to contact , but let me know . Gary:classic: After thought, I wouldent remove the '73 manifold if were me . There is nothing to gain by making the change. Just strip off all the unneeded stuff . You need to use the spacers from the round tops that are thicker that your old ones. Also the earlier air cleaner box. You can plug the large inlet from the air pump like was said before all that is needed is the vacume line to the brake booster and the carb vacume to the advance on the dist. :classic:

I roll up the windows when it is raining and when I park the car outside. The three way valve will take care of the expansion as it has all along . If you like the stink of stale fuel that is up to you. go for it. Driving around with the windows open is like sticking your head in the sand and disappearing. :stupid: :stupid:

if you have the factory survice manual this is about the most complete source there is .

the '74 260 was the first year for the 2+2 , at least in the US. To answer the question most of the '74s were not the 2+2s. All the 240s are the same . I dont know of the 280s that is a good question. :classic:

I removed the evap tank and eliminated all but the small vent line that runs to the front of the car and the one that has the 90 deg bend that is 5/8" in dia. there is enough room to allow for a gradual 90 and it wont kink if given the right amount of slack. B-killer is right there is a vent line from Nissan that fits this and is pre bent. In fact there is a line for this vary vent that allows to remove the evap tank . This tank was only required in the US . I have the part number if you need it some where , I think they are about $30. from midwestz Chloe knows the number and can get the part. Gary

d-master that will get your hart started going piter pat ! LOLROFL

Don't cut away the rusted metal untill you have the new part in hand so you know how far you can remove the metal. I installed Zedd Findings floors and am most satisfied. I have pictures if you need to see what the new stuff looks like and where it extendes . Do not compromise the integrety of the trans tunnel . This is part of the frame structure and strength of he car. the new floor pans are stronger than the origional and there is a center support under the floor just like the origional. Charley Osborne is the owner of the business and is vary helpful. He sells them to Motorsport and are the best of the two they carry . I had mine TIG welded in and covered the bare metal with POR to prevent rust. All the best to you , Gary

there should be a spacer there , made of a brown plastic material called phenalic, not sure of the spelling, it acts as a insulater and should be about 1/2" thick . If there is material missing and there is a gap and if the car is running ok don't worry about it. the next time you remove the carb take a look and see if the missing material compromises the seal between the manifold and the carb. If not , no harm no foul. enjoy the ride. :classic:

I am with b-killer, if it seems to good to be true , it usually is. Look under the floor mats at the metal floor not the matting and look for rust , look under the floor pans , look under the battery for any rust or bubbling paint . Look also for paint bubbles on the front fenders just infront of the doors down low, and the same just in back of the doors . Another place to look is to open the rear hatch and look at the sill in both corners for rust. Now this engine has a cracked head. Why do you think the owner of the shop wont install the head he is going to give you him self and have the car running and sell it for at least double the ammount?? Do you suppose the has internal problems ? Is the oil full of water from the cracked head ?? if there is how much rust damage is done to the crankshaft and cylinders and other parts ?? Things to think about:classic:

Here in Portland Ore. 91 is selling for $2.52 per. and going up. As the man said lower compression engines do not require the higher octane fuel , as the engine wears the compression lowers . A highly tuned engine with high compression requires the higher octane fuel and some require 100 + . It all comes back to the old saying , If you want to go fast how much do you want to spend. Or something like that. At the dyno they ran an engine on high octane and then on the lower grade, an the engine made more HP on the lower octane fuel . It was a basicly a stock engine with only slight mods.

Now that you have put synthetic oil in the engine , as the man said , and engine that has sludge buildup is likely to have this stuff knocked loose. That and the fact that you dont know how many miles since a rebuild ,or if it has been, you run this engine to even 5 1/2 K vary often and you are going to be driving a gernade. At that high RPM you float a valve from a weak spring and again like the man said you will be picking up the peices.