beandip

The same thing with my car . Turn on the key and parking lights came on . I never solved the problem before I removed the wire loomb . You might ask escanlon , send him a PM and state the problem . He is a guru on wireing.

Sounds to me that one or both carbs are not going back to idle when you let off the throttle. Take a close look at the choke cable adjustment , and check the fuel lines that connect the float bowls to the body of the carb for stiffness. They must be plyable for the carb to function properly. this can cause the choke to stick. do not use vacume line for these lines only fuel line. Z therapy has the hoses , parts store hose is too stiff. Just a couple of things to look at. Gary Hope this helps. This must be a pain in the butt in traffic.

Bambi is right , the '73 # 88 head has lower compression. Just because the engine plate says the HP numbers you cannot go by that. It depends on where and how the engine was rated and the numbers are vary different. Put the car on a dyno and you will get an idea of what the numbers really are. How many miles on the engine since an overhaul ? Spinning a 30yr + old engine to 6 grand can turn it into a gernade . You don't gain much after about 4500 on a stock L-24 any way.

You might give CArl Beck a PM . I am sure he would know .

So is what the problem is the engine starts and then stops running , is that right ? If this is the case there may be a problem with the switch on the run detent. This allowing the engine to start when the key is turned to the start position but when the key is released to the run the pump stops. The guy that was looking at the car is confused in that carbed engines will run without the pump going because they will run on the fuel in the float bowls of the carbs, Some are equiped with a oil pressure switch that allows current to flow to the pump AFTER oil pressure is there. Injecters need pressure from the get go. Hope this helps.

The looks of your car is depending on your tastes not mine or anyone elses. Get a catalog from Motorsports they have several air dams to choose from. I secound the motion get her running first unless there is major rust to contend with . If this is the case take care of that first in case the car turns into a parts car because of it. Louvers do save the interior from sun fadeing but again it is a matter of your likes or dislikes . Buying engine internal parts at this stage is a waist of money , these things need to be bought after you hone or bore the cylinders so you know what the measurements are. Be aware a rebuild will cost in the area of 2 grand if you do alot of the work yours self. If you are thinking to traiding in the L-24 block for one that is rebuilt, most rebuilders won't accept L-24 or L-26 blocks for cores.

There is far more to engine building than just adding carbs. This ballancing act as Allen said, is another reason the 4 barrel carb is not a reasonable mod. I experimented with a air craft carb on a superchaged large V-8 . We had it on a dyno on a engine stand and were trying water injection with this set up. Idle speed was excess of 2K and the engine diden't perform worth a damn. I went back to multi carbs. This was in the old days and I couldent afford fuel Injection , also it was not for a street engine. You can over carb an engine and it will only perform at near red line . I dont think this is what you are looking for. These little 6s work great on SUs . Just tune them. My 2 cts.

I am afraid that if the pin is damaged on the ends that you have not much choice but to take to a shop and have it pressed out. I have the pin puller and it wont work if the threads are damaged sorry. Being that this is the only one left to do there is no sence in shipping it to you . This puller saves the old pin and it can be reused however it requires the pin to have good threads . So any MEMBER that needs to use the puller let me know , just send me a email or a PM . Gary

VQ , Before you do any building of the L-24 ,check on what is allowed for the type of raceing you plan. I am not into IT or auto cross but I know they have regulations and limits what you can do and not do. If you are allowed by class to go with a 280 engine , the F-54s are reported to be the strongest and the last in the develoupment of the Zs inline engines. '79---'83ZXs. The '73 has a L-24 and it is a good block the head is a 88 but is a low compression verson of the head and has soft valve seats and small valves. There is a web site with tons of good info geocities.com/zgarage.2001/engine.html have a look and there is much of the information that you are looking for . For one thing if you have flat top carbs , get rid of them and get some round top SUs. Gary

NO DONT TIGHTEN IT. If you tighten the nut it will cause the bearings to heat and you will burn up them both. Tighten the nut a little tighter than finger tight, spin the wheel then check for loosness by grasping the tire front and rear and see if you can feel any loosness at all . What you want is to have no loosness but hardly any load from the nut pushing on the bearings. You see the bearings are set on angle and act like wedges , if tightened too tight it will add load and cause heat and will both wear them out and burn them out. If there is loosenes it can cause the weel to shimmy , drives like a wheel out of ballance at speed. Hope this helps , Gary

Do you mean 24 7 ? Has the wireing been modified or have you looked to see if the factory connections were used. I am asking this because my '73Z the pump would run anytime the key was turned and would continue to run if the head lights were on even if I turned the key to off position and the engine continued to run . My wireing has been compromised and I am in the process of replacing the whole wireing in the car. I am going to connect a pressure switch at the oil pressure sending unit and it will activate the fuel pump relay when there is 7 psi. available at the local parts store. Gary

I hope you dident disconnect the pvc valve ! It is vary much needed . The vent in the valve cover is a must as well. The little filters are good looking though. As far as inhaling the engine bay air , I bet if you ran a unrestricted large air line to the outside , and put the car on a dyno then did the same with the set up you have you would find vary little difference if any. Same with running the two filters verses the stock one with a K & N . If you were in compitition ,running at red line or near it , that's another matter , but for a daily driver I don't think so.

Looks like a $500. car. If the tires are good.

Marc you will get help if you ask your question in the electric forum. All the best . Gary

Question . What are you trying to do with this mod. ? You may vary well find that the vent on the valve cover will emit fumes into the driver compartment. I did see that you did add air horns to the carbs , this is good it will get back some of the lost HP from the stock ones, why dident you just use the stock air cleaner with a K & N filter ? Just wondering. Are you still running the old points type dist. ? If so going to a electronic systime would be a vary good up grade and not too costly. I went with a '79zx ignition and have been vary happy with it for 3 yrs. My 2cts

I pulled the pump form a '79 and took the mount with it. It is just a simple sheet metal thing bent at a 90 deg. and bolted to the floor pan and the pump. You can test the pump by connecting a length of fuel line to the intake side of the pump conect wires to the pump and hook the positive to hot side of a battery and touch the ground to the neg side of a 12vbatt with the hose is some gas. use long wires so there is no spark close to the fuel. You can us keroseen or mineral spirts insted of gas but NOT water. No regulator is needed . You do need to use the 240 fuel rail . The pressure is constant and will not over whelm the carbs , they pump at about 4psi. and enough volume for tripples on a stroker. We tried it . SM needles you will find will produce more performance when you have your foot in it , but wont effect the mileage when driven normally , if you have a light foot. When you can afford it I recommend going to a electronic ignition , I went with a '79ZX dist and coil . '79 &'80s are the same later ones used a different module on the side . one marked 12 80 is what is needed. Hope this helps , congrats and good luck , Gary

One more thing the RX-7 electric pump is quiet where some of the aftermarket ones are not. Gary :rambo:

By all means , if there is any rust on in or around the battery , take care of it now . I also recommend POR- 15 for this. However be sure to use the Mariene clean and Metal ready when preping the metal otherwise the paint may not stick. Important . Also If there ANY leakage at the crankshaft mains especially the rear change it . I wouldent mess with the 240 fuel pump and just go electric , there are wires back by where the fuel line exits the tank. They will be rolled up and taped with blue tape . I used a fuel pump from a RX-7 and it works great and no pressure regulater is needed. Just get one from a NON injected RX mine was from a '79 , $15.00 at the bone yard. If the pan gasket is leaking , this is the time to take care of that as well . DO NOT disterb any crud on the inside of the block ! If you loosen the stuff it can clogg oil passages and you cauld spin another bearing. Check the gasket serface on the pan to see that it is eaven and not distorted from over tightening the pan bolts. I would clean the pan of any sludge before reassenbley, dont overtorque the bolts , It doesn't require much torque for it to seal. You might keep in mind to look into SM needles for the Carbs. Gary

WHEN WE HAVE A DISCUSSION WE ALL LEARN AND GAIN KNOWLEDGE . NO FLAIME INTENDED . Gary

Give this a try, get some thicker oil in the dampers of the carbs. If you are using ATF or Mistery oil it is too thin and causes a momentary lean condition when the throttle is first depressed . I have geen using what was recommended by Datsun , 20 wt. and it eliminated the same problem for me. It's worth a try. Gary

I have been running a R-X7 pump for over 3yrs with no problems. However saying this , the wireing was cobbed up by the PO and the pump ran any time the ignition switch is on. Not a good situation . If you look back by the tank where the fuel line comes from the tank , look for two wires rolled up and taped with blue tape. These are for a electric pump. There on a '71 through at least '73 which is what my car is. The PO dident bother with the stock wires on my car and ran his own and tied it to the hot side of the ballest resister, NOT THE WAY TO GO. I am going to wire my car , when I reassemble it , with a pressure switch at the oil pump sending unit by using a tee . Go your local parts store and ask to look at there book on pressure switches and fine one that closes about 7Psi . Run the power to one side and the other to the fuel pump relay that will turn on the pump. Sorry but I cannot find the part numbers . Gary

I can't believe someone would want to burn up there car and likely the garage they park it in , to save a couple of bucks. I also cant imagine some one risking driving a roman candel. There are things we can cut corners on but anything dealing with fuel , in this manner , is down right foolhardy. If you cannot afford $100. for a part , you cannot afford to own the car . I will bet the radio and sound systime was more than that. I have seen first hand what a person looks like that has burned to death . Believe me you dont forget it.

ES check your email

I cut the floor out of my car with a saws all . You will find the sheet metal to be vary thin and easy to cut . I in stalled a floor pan from Zed Findings . they have the best ones around . 20gage pan and 16gage center support. I believe the factory is 22gage. You might consider not cutting the floor or rocker out untill you have the new parts in hand , this is recommended by C. Osborne . He is the owner of Zedd Findings.