beandip

sounds like you need to shop around for another , if you cant fix the one you have . What are you asking ? Where did it come apart? Did the wire ''cable'' come apart , the leaver ??

if the adjustments on the linkage is right and the boot or anything else is not preventing the trans form going into gear , then it is likely the sincromesh that is worn in the trans. If you are not familure with what that is , it's the ''cluch'' that slows the gears down when you shift and aligns them so everything meshes when you shift . Upon decelleration the trans will pop out of gear. Hope this helps. Gary

240zman these brackets are the same as on my '73 . If you look at the picture you will see the front of the diff is in the way it you use a 280 sway bar . The bar that fits is one from a early '74 260 . It has bends in it that causes the s. bar to travel forward of the diff and clear it. I got mine at the u-pullet ,$10.00. All the hardware that attaches to the suspention is the same as the 280s. I have a extra set of plates if you need a set . Gary

Kmack good call that is a vary good site. A real keeper It should be added to the tec files. Is that possable ? Or is it concidered someones property ? This one and the one on engines , there is so much good infromation in there.

sblake , you are right . If the compression is low enough you can run the lower octane fuel. the '73 is the first emissioned engine and the compression is lower than that of the three privious years. The higher octane fuel on a low compression engine is waisting $. If it doesn't ping under load it is ok. Corgan33 if you are going to have a valve job done , have the hardened seats put in . In anny case. You might concider milling the head and uping the compression. The real guru is this area is phred give him a pm or email . He does this stuff for a living and builds race engines for Z cars. My L-24 out of my '73 was running at 145psi compression to 150 accross all 6 . Not that high but a stock 88 head . How does this compair to your engine. I was getting 23MPG on the road .

one line is connected to the engine so that fuel vapor is not vented to the outside of a sealed systime. the valve allows fresh air to enter he fuel tank so as the fuel is drawn from the tank it is replaced with air . in the heat It will resist pressure to a point and then it will releave it . Other wise you will be pulling a vacume. vent to the aircleaner then the vapor will be burned with the incoming air. When it is connected properly to the engine the PVC draws the fumes in this way and burns it.

for one thing DO NOT SPRAY STARTER FLUID ON A RUNNING ENGINE !!! That stuff is ether and you will vary vary likely set the engine on fire. By some carberater cleaner and spray this around any thing that you suspect is leaking vacume , of cource while the engine is running. This stuff is non flammable. There will be a change in idle if and when you spray on the leak. Why were you dumping out the oil in the carbs , there is no need to change this unless it is contaminated. The cause of he piston sticking is mostlikely cause by some dirt cought on the piston and jaming it in the cylinder. Another good use for the cleaner. With the carb right side up , lift the piston and let it drop . It should fall with a clunk when it hits the bottom . If this is not the case remove the dome and CAREFULLY lift the piston out being careful of the needle and the spring . Clean the crud off the piston and inside the cylinder. Reassemble , do not swap any parts . Clean one unit at a time. use 20wt oil in the damper for best all around results.

Phred, that's a hell of a systime . Looks like you did a lot of work to keep the plumbing equal in length . How is the sound with the glass packs , I know you said great sound , but for a race car or for a street driver . I dont want to be setting off a bunch of car alarms ! Great looking set up , I hope to see it soon. Gary

sounds to me that someone has modified your set up for the webbers. I have a '73 and it is the same as the '71 and '72 I dont know about the '70 240 but I think it was also the same.

I ran duel pipes years ago on a inline 6 and found that if the two pipes were interconnected part way back that it helped with the resonance and back rap when decelerating when down shifting. Now this was with just glass packs Bullet type mufflers. As far as tuning I dont remember any problem either way. the inter connection can only be a single section of tail pipe welded to simply connect the two pipes.

It is a great format for information and help with poblems and like was said dedicated to the early classic Z . Once in a great while it can get off track but rarely , usually when compairing the Z to other cars performance. Then the topic can turn to the Jag or what ever was discussed. There are several people that have been into 240Zz actively for many many years. I miss the site, Mike I hope you can do your magic. Thanks for all your hard work, I have a tendency to take this great effort for granted , thanks again . Gary

1. I am doing the same swap. In fact even my Z is a '73 . I am using my SUs but I have SM needles to handel the added CCs and I also have some head work and a after market cam . The SUs will handel the 280 no problem and the performance will be vary close to the injection . Just low tec, you will need to use the choke when the engine is cold. That kind of thing. Yes to all the other questions. You will need to add a electric fuel pump if you are not already running one. The later head is not set up for the manual pump. If you need one, find a RX-7 that is carbed at the bone yard NOT a injected car. This pump will work great on the Z and mine was $15.00 at the u-pull-it. It is quiet also. It mounts by the fuel tank. #6 you might think of replacing the rear main seal. this can be done without droping the pan just remove by prying it out carefully . enjoy the ride Gary

Bill I agree with 2manyzs . It's time to zip it up you might learn something. Your comments most I find to be demeaning to your self. I havent said anything for a long time and this is the first time in the years I have been a member here , to do something like this . Please KNOCK IT OFF. You are only making your self look stupid . I may be band from the site for this . If that is the case so be it. I just can't take it anymore. Gary

Any thing they do the car will be an improvement . For my money the RX-8 or the Honda 2000 is what I would be looking at if I was in the market.

yesterday I came accross the add on this site for MidwestZ I have bought a lot of parts form Chloe in the past , but I went through the intro in the add and registered with them. I received a email from them the same day . I sent them a email telling them that I have been a customer for a long time and have had a great working relationship with Chloe and that I would like to know what is going on with her and or her co. I further stated that I wound NOT be ordering any parts untill I receive information . I further stated that the classiczcar club has been trying to find out the same info , and for the good of out relationship that they should contact the website or my self. I havent heard a work. Gary

count me in Gary

Carl this is why I am careful about loaning it out. I want it back in working order. I havent done mine yet and it would tick me off bigtime that when I need to do mine it had dissapeared.

I am geting ready for paint at present and have been toying with the idea myself. I am contemplating using some pearl on the whole car just to set it off but to shade the center " hump" with a double shot of pearl and take it up the windshield , wind screen . The color I have picked is Ferarri Yellow with gold pearl in the first coat of clear. Suttle but a little of flash . What do you think ?

I agree this is an interesting test and it can be performed by doing the same thing and watching the tach and watching the RPMs . I do this when locating a missfireing cylinder . The interesting part for me is having a print out showing the numbers. I dont think weak valve springs , or the compression test would show it . Unless the the testing is done at uper RPM . I would look at Spark plugs , Plug wire or dist. cap.

My '73 dash and center consol look the same as the '72 .

Hot vs Cold oil will show a difference in oil pressure but not that much. Another thing Eric said that the oil pressure was fine for the most of the 1200 miles and that the last 100 or so is when the pressure dropped. I still think sending unit and poss. the gage. Nissan sending units seem to be more reliable. If you really want to know what is going on connect a mechanical gage to the block and start her up. This will tell you what the pressure really is at idle and at RPM . The factory gages are just a monitor to look at while driving so you can see if there is pressure . 26th is the coffee working for ya . We are all just having a mellow discussion here, at least I am.

Need more info. Did this start all of a sudden , or after some work or new tires? have you had the front tires off for any reason .? A couple of things to check. Jack up the front of the car and spin the tires and watch for out of round , or a flat spot. Have you had to stop quickly locking up the tires ? While off the ground , grasp the tire front and rear and try to wiggle the tire from side to side looking for any play , do the same grasping from top to bottom . I know you said all is new but check any way. Again while off the ground loosen the lugg nuts untill the wheel is loose then re tighten while off the ground . Is there play in the steering , worn or loose any thing ?

Dont use a after market sending unit bite the bullet and go to Nissan. you wont be sorry.