beandip

rumshak, I have a '73 , both of the door switches are shot. Gary

I just use a pump from a '79 RX-7 and no pressure regulater is needed. $15.00 at the u-pullet. We tried it on a tripple mikuni set up and it performed great , in fact my friend is using one now as well. I am not running a mechanicl at all. If you go this route just be sure the pump is from a carbed car NOT injected.

look for a bad ground and or corroded connections . If this started right after the fusable link problem , look there first. Take a good look at the battery connectons as well.

box , I don't think you have a clue . :stupid:

on my last post the vent line I was referring to is pictured as # 8 on bambi's picture .

on a much smaller scale, when I removed the right front fender I found mice had packed the whole area that is between the top of the fender and the inner fender with bird seed from the bird feeders. The Z had been parked for a while next to the garage. One thing the seed had gotten wet and was starting to rust the cavity.

I have a '90 Ford F-150 and it did the same thing for the same reasons. I bought the truck used with only 30K on it and it looked new. I had a chip on the hood also, and thought it was from bird droppings. I ordered some touch up paint . The hood ended up looking as Garys240z's Chevy. I took the truck to the dealer and what I was told is that '' yes , it is a factory pealer . Did you buy the truck new ? no ? sorry . If you were the orgional owner we would repaint the whole truck ''. Talk about frosted , and I dont mean Aus.beer either . That is where it sets I repainted the hood my self and so far the rest of the truck is holding. I also have no other complaints about the truck . Another Gary !!! Maby we should change our names. LOL

One more thing DO NOT USE WATER HOSE FOR THESE VENT LINES. Nappa has an asortment sizes of fuel line hose , hose that is ment for heater hose or vacume line is not of the compound compatable for gas. Hope this helps.

nine out of ten reply were on target , only one said anything about a 280. I think that either you have a split in the filler neck part way up from the bottom or there is a hole in one of the vent lines. As Bambi said pull the shield and have a look , it is only held on by three sheet metal screws. After reviewing the drawing of the tank and hoses there is only one vent line of the three that could drip where you said the leak is driping . It is the small line that exits the tank just outboard of the sending unit. Are you smelling fumes inside the cabin of the car ? If you are by all means remove the trim pannel and check out the other hoses and the evap tank. I hope you dont need to replace the filler neck but if you do here is the part # 172-12-E8800 A hint to save the little pins that you must push out of the plastic ''rivets'' take a leg from a panty-hose and insert it into the hose of your shop vac and use it as a filter and vacume out the area, also if you have some 5/8'' heater hose , tape it in place and use it to get into the tight places. I found several pins form the past when the pannels were removed by others.

I need both switches also . If you find a sorce please share the information. What spark plug looms are you referring to , the seperaters that hold the plug wires in place? If it is the latter , I found a few sets at the bone yard from the newer Zs and from Maxamas. Also they are a good place to look for the hood levelers. Gary

I USE TURTLE WAX 2001 I use it on the seats and dash as well also on the vinyl interior. It is not greasy like Armor all and it give great uv protction. I have used it on the Vinyl cover for out hot tub that is exposed to the weather 24 7 and it is 4 yrs old and looks like new. It is covered with the same stuff our seats are. I find it work as well on tires to prevent checking. By the way , IS IT COLD UP THERE ?? GARY I use lacquer thinner to clean rubber.

If I saw the pictures and the add , and I were in the market for another Z . My first question is rust , any time I am looking at a Zcar for myself or anyone else for a purchise , the first thing I want to see the under the hood and the batt. area . secound I look real hard at the lower rear front fenders and rocker , then the dogleg , bottom front of rear fender just back of the door. I pull the carpets and look at the floors in the foot wells then open the rear hatch and check out the hatch sill. If all is good , t h e n , I check out the interor and paint and so on . While looking at the battery I check the oil for cleanness and look for leaks and the color of the engine bay, if it is the same as the car. Sound systime is way way down the list and is of no value if the car isn't sound. Your car looks vary clean and stright as much as can be told by the pictures . Tires look good , mags ok. not a plus. How many miles since the engine was gone through and is it a L-24 or ? If the engine is solid as well as the running gear I would put it up for $ 7000. or so and see what happends . there must be a Z shop in your area that could look at the car as a third party so that they would give a unbiased apraisel so if you find a out of state buyer you have it in hand. East coast and mid states find these hard to find. my 2cts Gary really hard to tell like this.

I have been running the ZX ignition for 3 yrs . I have no reason to change to any thing else. It performs with out a problem to red line . I have a daily driver and have never been sorry I made the change. I am just now installing a 280ZX engine and again the same ignition. There may be hotter systimes that will work better at 9K but I am never in need of this sort of performance. If going with the ZX ignition be sure to also get the mount that attaches the dist to the engine, that short extension that the dist attaches to. The 240 part is different. Also use the module marked 12 80 the '81--'83 have a different module , the dist will work but the module requires the computer and without it , it goes to retard at RPM. Also get the coil and bracket. The 240 coil is smaller in diameter so the mount is too small.

Ed is correct the R-200 is a stronger diff . but the 180 is plenty strong . I was under the impression that you were after different gearing of the R-200. As was stated keep the diff. for any future project as well as the half shafts . I would keep any part that you can use on the 240 that is good.

I am going to ask a vary basic question here . What are you using to replace the stock brake lines? DO NOT USE COPPER for this or for fuel !!

The fuel rail is the tubing used to run the fuel accross he engine to the two carbs and return the excess fuel back to the tank. On the 240 motor it starts and ends at the front of the engine . As you can see from Bambi's picture the mount for the pump is only a piece of sheet metal bent at a 90deg. screwed to the body of the car near the outlet of the fuel tank . Use a inline filter between the pump and the tank to protect it from any crud coming form the tank. These are high speed turbin pumps and they dont like to digest rust or dirt. I would also maintain the filter up front by the front of the engine. As I posted earlier look for the two wires wrapped in blue tape under the car by the area where the filler neck attaches to the tank. The factory hid them up there. Gary

The bar I mounted is a stock part. I dont want to stiffen the ride , just tighten up some of the roadability for street driving . I used all new rubber mounting also for the same reason . Also to keep the road noise out as will.

There most likely is a test that the dealer can do with there testing equipment. Why dont you just plug it in and start the engine. Is this a spair module for you or are you just now installing the ignition ? Do you have a 12volt coil as will ?

A handy hint to lube the wire ''cables'' for the choke is to take a straw and with the cables proped up , obviously they must be disconnected from the carbs. use the straw and tape it to the end and oil the cables and let stand over night. Works good on the hood release cable also. While you are at it attaching a length of small cable, I used the kind that is ment for picture hanging, to the hood release and run it thru the firewall and let it hang above the foot peddles out of the way . If the regular hood release fails this cable will save one hell of a lot of grief.

Alan I was hoping you would see this thread. Gary

VQ35 here is a vary good site to have a look at geocities.com/row4navy/ Have a look around there is a section on strokers as well as a lot of good info. For one thing to going back to your first post . The L-24 cannot be punched out to 30 safely . One other thing if you do go other than carbs . You will need to change fuel tanks or modify yours . You will need an injector fuel pump and they mount inside the tank I believe not like the 240. All the F-54 blocks are the same , the turbo engine has dished pistons and a P-90 head. The injected engines have the P-79 head and flat topped pistons. This engine block is the last evolution of refinement of inline Zs. It has different cylinder cooling casting and supports internally than the other 280 blocks.

there are two on ebay right now!

He said it had a p-79 ! not a turbo

With dished pistons and a P-90 head , you have a turbo engine with as for the amount of boost it will handel , for that you will need to ask a turbo guy , sorry. The P-90 is a low compression head and and is for use with a turbo . The F-54 block that has flat topped pistons is the same engine but higher compression and ment for injecton . It will have a P-79 head and it can also use carbs , the compression is higher because of the lack of any boost. I think 8.5 to 1 or about that. I am using a '82 flat top with a P-79 and SUs. Gary P.S. give phred a PM he is an engine builder and a member. He is the real deal and knows his stuff. I think the P-90 A is a head with hidrolic valve lifters . I know I miss spelled hidrolic. Dislexia is a hell of a thing.