beandip

SORRY DIDENT NOTICE Gary about 500lbs

Just what I want to do ! Go out in the middle of no where , and park my car in the hot sun . Sounds like a hell of alot of fun. Thanks

SHOW OFF LOL

have you tried to back off the timing to 10 before TDC ? to much advance you will blow a hole in a piston if you are not careful. You are putting a hell of alot of strain on the pistons and rods . you will get by for a while but you are asking for trouble. that's my 2cts

I was a fireman in Los Angles for 22 yrs and a Inspector as well . As an inspecter one of my specialties was special extuishing systimes. My self and 4 other inspecters were responsible for the Halon systems being installed in the whole city before the fact in plan check. Having said that , Halon is toxic BUT in the concentrations of 17% and less it is only going to give you a headake maby. The concentrations needed to snuff the fire will need to be at 16% or less. Vary expensive and not practicle for anything other that to protect electronics in a sealed room. For your garage the best is a regular dime a dozen A B C and IF you want more ,a water extinguisher . The A B C will work on wood and paper type fires but will not cool down the material and it will likely begin to burn again. On flammable liquid it works the best and will snuff the fire out . It is mostly Bakeing soda with additives to help the soda from caking up in the extinguisher. Electric , again it will stop the flames but if the power is not turned off it will start again to burn. I have two units in my garage a 10 B C rated Kidde . Rated 10 BC not lbs. look on the label it is about 4.5 pounds. the secound one is a 2 1/2 gal pressureised water . This one will handel paper and wood. These are ment to knock down the fire so you can get out and call the Fire Dept. If properly used a 10 bc rated dry chemical will extinguish 10 sq. ft. of burning liquid. MAX. Hope this helps Gary Placement is important next to the entrance and nex to an exit is best . Dont place the extinguisher near where you think the fire may occure because if it does the extinguisher will be involved and you wont be able to get to it . Especially important with flammable liquid.

one thing about a gps it shows position and it's just a easy matter to store the info no matter where you go. It will be stored until dowloaded and or erased. I am sure if this is implemented the ts will be crossed and the i's will be dotted. This is all being worked on . I have seen this type of thing done in the past .They make a big splash and wait for the upheavel , then back off and settle for simular less unpopular virsion as a compromise and the public thinks that they have a gotten a deal. Just look back when they started the sales tax in your state . 3 % maby and now it's lilely to be 8 % I live in Ore. and we have no sales tax but they try every other year to pass one . However just because I dont live in cal I when they do something then it spreads like a canser. Cat Converters is a good example unleaded gas another.

it does look sort of spooky hanging out there. If I remember correctly phred made a plate that bolts to the side where the air pump does but the stand is in the center of the block so that nither end of the engine is farther from the stand I have a couple of pictures . I need to dig them up . Send phred a pm he may have drawings . Gary Yah it bolts to the side of the engine where the air pump does in four places , and as I said it positions the stand in the center , so the block is ballanced. He made his own stand as well . You should see the exhaust systime ! He is an artest with a torch.

I think it is in the vin number. I am sure some one will say for sure. All the best of luck with the '' new '' car. Gary

I recomend that you drive the car for a little while before you start to tear it apart. Address things like suspention and brakes including the rubber brake lines . When I bought my Z the first thing I was going to do was to pull the automatic and install a 5 speed. I ended up needing to first replace the master cylinder then the front rotors and pads then the e-brake cable and one brake drum. Then a couple of tires . I ended up driving the car for over 3 yrs then decided to redo the car. I changed to a different ratio diff . a lightly built F-54 280 engine Completly removed all the wireing , glass and interior. Repaired any and all rust damage found and am now reassembling the car with its headers and cam and so forth . However the Automatic is still in there and will stay . I realised that I really enjoyed the daily driving with it and no longer want the 5 speed. I drove a 240 with a 5 speed over the weekend and liked it vary much , not enough to change. I guess what I am trying to say is give it a while . Unless you are wanting a concors origional car which will now cost you from here about another 20K , then in dosent matter if you make the change. No one will care but you.

The state of Calif is looking into taxing you by the miles driven insted of by the gallon of fuel. Now that the hi-breds are showing up more and more this is the serious proposal . What they are afraid of is that because of the hi mileage cars that they will loose the tax base . They are going to require a gps device on all cars that will be read each time the car is gased up at the pump and the cost will be calulated and must be paid at that time. Oregon is also looking hard at the same thing. BIG BROTHER WILL BE WATCHING YOU HOW FAR AND WHERE YOU DRIVE , HOW FAST ALSO . All these things and more is the proposal . Gary I am not making this up . It was on the evening news and it showed the gps device connected to a lap top and it was spitting out all sorts of info. :disappoin

If you have a Harbor Freight any where near just go buy one . $39. and it will hold up to 1000 lbs. It's not worth the time to weld one up for that price . It has steel wheels and it works great. They ship also. Gary

I just checked the ones I used and mine are 3 3/4'' long and 10mm X 1.5 and are hardness 10.9 . There is a member ,Phred , that makes a VARY COOL adapter that allows you to bolt the engine to the engine stand from the side, this allows you access to the end of the engine. It is so ballanced that it is easy to turn the block to either end up or the engine upside down with ease. I dident have one of the adapters but whish I had. In any event be sure to use hardened bolts especially if bolting to the end of the engine so that you don't shear off the bolts and drop the block. On my Harbor Freight engine stand it has tubes that the bolts pass through this is the reason for the long bolts. I used a stack of common washers on them so that the bolts dident bottom out in the block. Gary

Have you gone to the tec section and looked for ADJUSTING THE SUs If not do this first. The uni- sun is basicly just a device to be used to compair the volume of air traveling through a carb compaired to another. The position of the ball means nothing outher than the thing is working , so set the adjustment of the uni-sun so the ball is somewhere in the middle then put on the other carb and see how it compairs volume wise . Adjust the air setting on the carbs so that they are equal. Set the idle to about 800RPM and THEN adjust the gas mixture. Follow the step by step of the tec posting. Gary

First they are made of plexi glass . They come in clear and smoked . They are not legal in every state . The ones you see with the chrome rim are no longer available . There has been reports that the lenses can distort the beam and effect efficency . I have no experience either way a do not have any , just passing on what I have read about them .

If any one would like to have the drawings of the pin puller , send me a email or PM . Gary

A master is a master weather or not it is for the brakes or the cluch .

If you go to the tec page and do a surch for adjusting SUs I have posted a step by step , how too. As for adjusting the valves to start with do them cold because it will take you some time to do . Especially the first time. One thing with valves , they are like little kids . When they are making a little noise , you know things are all right . When they go completely quiet , that is when to have a look at what is going on . Too tight of an adjustment can burn a valve , a little loose wont hurt anything . Key words , little loose . :rambo: Gary

The lids to the master cylinders have vents and are not supposed to seal completely. I just sounds like the old master was shot and needed to be replaced. Personally I will rebuild the wheel cylinders when they are good enough , but I never rebuild a Master. As Bambisnuffer said take a close look at any and all of the rubber brake lines , and replace them if there is a question if they are surviceable. bean

This is some vary interesting information that is somewhere on this web site. classkczcars.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7096 have a look at this information . It talks about which of the rear ends are useable and which ones are not. Even though they are R-200 bambikiller posted the info on the list today , this is where I read it. Gary

I know a web page that has all this info. I will look it up and add it to this entry. Gary thats the one . I just posted it on the list today , but I needed to look it up.

When you say restore do you really mean a nice car that you are going to be driving on a daily or nearly so? If this is the case , this is a whole different thing. I posted eairlier and failed to mention that I have had my car on a set of dollies all the while I have been working on it . I found that they were a great investment . I am cramped for space in our 2 car garage and we park our daily driver as will as the Z in there . With the dollies I can pull the car sidewaise or turn it end for end in the garage and then shove it back to the side and pull the Camery in. Harbor freight have them on sale right now cheap also an engine stand for only $39.99 that will hold a 1000lb engine . Same price for a great floor jack , full size with larger wheels . They have jack stands on sale all the time these you will also need . If you dont do the rotissery thing. If you are thinking of triples and a L-28 in a 240 , forget the restoration , and build a driver. :rambo:

I don't know about the map light but the dome light . Insted of a different bulb try and paint the reflecter with white paint, it makes a big difference the same with the gages . The gages were painted white at the factory but they dident do a vary good job. Paint the back , inside shell and it too will reflect more light. Do just the back and the white cannot be seen from the front. The same for the tail lights and backup light.

Call your local rad shop and see what they charge to recore yours' I recommend a three tube rather than the origional two tube. Other than that look to the wrecking yards . A 280 unit is to long and will hang out the bottom , from what I have been told. If you can find a 240 with a automatic I think they are three core. At least all that I have seen all are . The down side is it will likely be as old as yours.

If you take the fender to a real body shop they can repair it and no one will ever know the difference. Take it to a regular shop and they will slap bondo on it. Look for a shop that does custom cars and hot rods , ask at car shows in your area . They will be real craftmen doing the metal work. It just takes some time to hand shrink the metal and work out the damage. I worked with Scanlon on my car and I am amaized on what was accomplihsed with out body filler . Gary

I removed the evap tank in my '73 and pluged the vent howes on the tank and vented the tank to the filler neck. not a big deal . If you want a metal evap tank I have one in good shape.