beandip

like 2many said if the bondo is cracked or exposed at all it absorbes moisture and will rust the metal under it. Some "body " men to do quick fix will drill holes to pull the metal back out but not braze the holes before using the filler. You can see the noodles sticking out in the back , if they were not knocked off. Moisture will travel in through them , or the exposed material . I had damage in the back of my Z in the vallance below the L plate , because I noticed a small crack in the paint. I looked up under when I pulled the tank and could see the noodles. When I sanded and chipped off the bondo , I found a patch of rusted metal about the size of a football , thankfully it was surface rust and could be pulled out and cleaned off . Altogether there was about 50 holes that we brazed closed. What Zdreamer said he did is right on. Primer is also porus and will allow moisture to penetrate to the metal . So work on one area at a time and keep it out of the weather.

the spray was for the other stuff not the dynomax

Flat top carb are junk and are nothing but trouble. the dist sound like a dual point dist for a automatic trans. The PO must have changed form a auto to the 5 speed. I suggest either finding a dist for a manual trans single point unit and convert it to a petronox . What I did on my '73 was to buy a '79ZX dist , coil with mounting bracket at the "bone yard'' , be sure to also get the mount that attaches to the engine for the dist, the 240 part wont work. the difference is remarkable how much smoother and better the engine runs. $75.00 with the plug wires and dist cap. . Round top carbs and a earlier air cleaner '71 or '72 works great with the round tops . If you want round tops , let me know and I can help. Gary:classic:

It should, I also have a 280 in my 240 and runing SUs. I bought a set of SMs from Z Therapy but havent tried them yet. Going from a 240 to a 280 , the added CCs will require a little more fuel. The taper is much faster with the SMs , seems to be about the same at idle and at normal Rs but with your foot in it is should come on with the cam. At least this is why I am going to give them a try. I have a color tune so I will be able to see how the cylinders are burning up to 3000 Rpm .:classic:

the rumor has it that you will gain 10 HP with the 36 However I have been watching for years and have not seen any one come up with proof. I would like to see the dyno numbers to back up the claim . It was supposed to only make the difference at the top end at redline. Since I have too much respect for my engine and my car , I just forgot the whole Issue. If it did what the rumor says , it wouldent make any difference to me any way. 30+ year old engine , + red line = gernade. There was a stack of them at the bone yard , I passed.

send a request to justacarguy he is parting out a '73 & '71

those are a great snake , a little on the crankey side . I had a 6' one when I was a teen. We dont have them on the left coast. :classic:

That was a great gift from some one . PAY IT FORWARD. did you see the movie ?

don't put that stuff under the car ! I am using b-quiet , Brown bread on my floors and doors . I bought some simular foil backed stuff from Whitneys and its going on the firewall and tranny tunnel as well as the floors . Foil side up. The brown bread has foil on the up side as will. Did you use the dyno mat on the inside of the doors ? If you want to stick the stuff down , you can use some spray adheasive.

I just finished the swap, but my Z is a '73 . I have a curved transvers link if you need one. I am not positive but I think the '71 has the link you need. I thind it is the '70 that had the stright t-link . I replaced the front diff rubber mount , just because . I bought it ahead of time and the old one it turns out was good . If your half shafts have 4 bolt flanges they will work. I did the ujoints while I was there. I posted before the 280 M bar is mounted with the purched forward unlike the 240. there is a web site that shows all the parts needed and describes the process geocities.com/zgarage.2001/engine.html have a look. Gary:classic:

Brian,I pulled my engine and trans as a unit . one thing protect the slip joint on the tranny end of the drive shaft . dont let be scrached or dinged when you remove it . Come by and see my car and how far I am . Gary:classic:

I agree Chloe is a great sorce . I went with the '79zx ignition at least 3 yrs ago and it works really good . I also have and '73auto , and dont want to change to a manual. I bought the ignition complete with coil ,its mounting bracket ,plug wires and cap ,with the module , everything . $75.00 at the bone yard. If you decide to go this route the one to get come from '79 through 83 but the correct module is found on the '79 and '80 . It is marked with 12 80 on the side. the later ones had one marked 12 94 and will not work properly. The stock tach will work with this set up. and it all runs on 12 volts not 8 , also get the mount that connects the dist to the engine , from the ZX . The 240 part will not work correctly with the new dist. :classic:

You might get the fly wheel and clutch and pressure plate and I think the throw out berring link. from the donnor car . The 2 + 2 used a different size clutch , slightly larger , than the coupe but I dont know what all is involved in the differences., other than the surface area of the clutch is larger. Maby some one here that has done this swap could advise. :classic:

Thanks for the head's up Gary

Steve , it's been 3 or 4 years back but I weighed my '73 with me 215 lb driver and a half tank of fuel , total it was right at 2600 lbs and about evenly split , the front was about 100 lbs more than the rear. I am sorry I dident write the numbers down. Hope this helps. Gary:classic:

T Hawk you have got to be kidding ! AT LEAST I HOPE SO:stupid: :stupid: :stupid:

bumpers , emissions stuff thats about it.

I have no idea what they mean unless they are talking about new rings . Send them a email.

Travis , welcome to the club. Yes there are several items that will go into your '73 240 . I am in the process of reassembling my '73 with a 280 ZX engine, and R-200 diff. using the moustash bar from the 280 , notice that the bar will be reversed from how the 240 bar was mounted. The mounting purches faceing oppisite. The brake drums can be used . If you are going to replace the moustash bar's bushings , do not remove the sleve that is in the perch and save the large washers from either car . The bolts that attach the bar to the diff on the R-200 are larger than from the 180 so retreve them from the 280. The half shafts from your 240 will work , keep track which is whtch because they are of different lengths. All the best Gary:classic:

If you are interested there is a great little "gun " that is only $6.00 at harbor freight that works great for shooting the POR into the hidden cavities there product number is P-37346 . When you reseal the POR paint can , use two layers of plastic wrap between the lid and the can. Other wise if the paint gets on the two metal surfaces and cures the lid is on permanetly. Your filter mask will not vary likely protect you completely from Diisocyanate , check the label and use good ventellation. My next door neighbor is a kidney specialest and he advised me to drink plenty of fluids after using this stuff and your body will pass it off with no problem . I wear latex gloves also , this paint loves skin if it is allowed to dry on the skin it is permanent untill it wears off. If you want any more info. that I might be able to pass on , let me know. By the way escanlon and I are working on the car together. Gary

I have covered the under side of my 240 from the front to where the floor turns up at the diff, I did the floor pans in the foot wells . I sprayed in side the rockers and doglegs , painted the back side of the fenders and the wheel side of the inner fender , front only . I shot por all inside the back fender area from the doglegs up around the fender / wheel area and where the fuel vapor tank was and across the hatch lower pannel and the cavity where the antenna is located. I also painted the spair tire well and shot inside the doors the front suspention is painted and the total fuel tank. I used 2 & 1/3 qts. of gloss POR . About 1/2 gal of Mariene clean and about the same of the Metal ready. IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED to paint the exterior surfaces that will later be painted with the top coat , color of the car. I however did use the por paint in some areas of the engine bay . I have removed the batt . tray support and cleaned up the surface rust and PORed the whole area and any bare metal any where on the car except the out side . I used Tie-coat primer on the engine bay so the finish will bond . I recommend that you buy no larger than qts. of the paint , it will save you $ in the long run. It is exreemly important to follow the directions for preping the metal. USE THE PROPER MASK AND IN A WELL VENTED AREA !!! Do not breathe any more fumes than necessary . If the surface is not preped properly the paint WILL NOT STICK AT ALL ! Once the POR is cured nothing will touch it , not acetone or any thinner. Clean up of skin and tools , I use laquer thinner but before it is dry. If I can help send me a email. Gary :classic:

I dont know , but I just rented a cherry picker type and pulled the engine and trans as a unit no problem. I would guess 500 lbs. would be close. I am sure some one will come up with the actual weight. :classic:

A car that was just parked , and has been setting that long will need a complete tear down. For one thing the fuel tank must be pulled, there is no way that it could have survived not either rusting or varnishing . The oil in the engine will long ago turned to varnish and sludge . If it were to start it wont run for long with out clogging oil passages and burning out some of the bearings. The engine may be good but just must be pulled apart and tanked. All the wheel cylinders will be rusted and the fluid turned to jelly. The rubber break lines rotted or at the least unsafe. This could be a real find though . It is just going to be a lot of work the cooling systime will need a complete go through including the heater core . All water hoses and drive belts . At the least the diff and manual trans will need a flush and refill. If possable find out why the car was lift parked in the first place . Bad engine , clutch what ???? There must be a reason they stopped driving it in the first place. If the engine is a problem just pull it and replace it . Drop in a 280 there easy to find. The best of luck Gary

I am not a turbo guy , but I know that they do have low compression , if they are all consistant that is a big plus . At 130 with a turbo ? I think that would be way too high. I deferr to the turbo drivers on this one . All being the same is a vary good sign .:classic:

What ever floats your boat.:stupid: :stupid: