beandip

I dont believe so . you can swap the 12 80 on to the '81---'83 . I think the dist you have has a different set up with its components mounted elsware, not on the side of the dist.

There are still quite a lot of good clean 240s out there. There are but few that are in this condition vary few. I think it would be a vary big mistake to do a hybred mod. on this car . Especially since there are so many decent ones out there that have been slightly modifide already , mismatching numbers or a 5 speed or R-200 in there 240 . My friend just two days ago bought a vary clean '72 with a bad engine . It has only 90k on it . He is going to keep the block for the future , just to keep the numbers correct incase he decides to restore. I hate to see a cherry complete 240 get chopped up . My 2cts :sick:

Chris A , I have one of the pullers. At present I have loaned it out. When I get it back I can either draw out the specks or ship it to you. It is a simple devise that should be easy to make if you have access to a lathe. It is a simple design . a length of tubing with some hardened 1/2'' all thread a thrust bearing and three washers and three nuts that fit the all thread. The part that must be made , is piece of steel about 4'' long and about 3/4'' round and bored out and threaded to attach to the all-thread on one end and the pin on the other. I traided for the tool and got it to loan to members and to do my own car.

As Carl stated the supposed increase in HP is only at flat out high RPMs. There is no reason not to use it though. The linkage I am speaking of is the rod that attaches to both carbs in between the two , the round tops require a different length here. I have removed all the emissions stuff and only am running the pcv systime. The only two vacume lines you will need is one that is directly in back of the front carb that attaches to the vacume advance on the dist. and the one that attaches to the vacume booster for the brakes. You can eliminate the rest. This is you if dont have to comply to emissions checking . The car might pass but they dont like it if the junk is missing. all the best , Gary

I use two sets of jack stans . I jack the front up with a floor jack under the front cross member , there is a flat plate where it is the strongest and in the center right at the front of the engine . I place the stands at the beginning of the frame rail where the controll arms attach, one on each side . I jack the rear end by the diff. with the floor jack as well. The rear stands go just out board of the pockets for the seat belts, or by the area that the rocker ends and is attached to floor cross pannel . Another option is to use ramps on one end or the other. If you have the room and two sets of ramps , this will get you higher and the car will be vary stable. But of cource you will need to jack the car up on the ramps . In the future if you need to jack the car for a changing a flat with the factory supplied jack , there are two points on each side of the car ONLY , just in front of the door and just to the rear of the door on the frame rail. NEVER ON THE INNER FLOOR SUPPORTS. Don't allow the tire installers to use the H style flat lifts that are so popular . they will cause the floor pan to buckle upward because the car is being supported only by the floor sheet metal. Hope this helps. Gary

SYMON, If you can install a early air cleaner this would be a good mod as well. the air box has tuned intake tubes that with the thicker insulater add to the ram effect and will gain you some HP . The numbers you are stating that you achieved are really good indeed , for a stock engine . ORANGE 260 , You will need the linkage from the early set up , at least the section that is between the two carbs . This part is of different length. You also need the thick insulaters that fit between the intake manifold and the carb. The fuel rail you have should work . The 260 intake manifould will the one to use. In this descussion I dident read anyone mention the lowering of compression as a factor that reduced performance in the '73 and later cars. Another reason for the larger displacement. The E-88 head on the '73 has lower compression than the E-88 on the '72. There is vary little difference between the '72 and the '73 , other bumpers and emissions junk , this includes the carbs. Gary :rambo:

I have delt with Chloe for a long time and she has always been first class. I does make me wonder what has happened as this is completely oppisite of what usually is her mode of operation. I suggest patience . If any one hears anything please post it for us all. Gary

Are you planning on spraying epoxy primer first on the bare metal?

to each his own indeed. I removed mine and soldered the holes , leaded them like in the old days. I prefer the clean lines of the car with out them. The car is VARY prone to door dings without them I know . I just will need to be careful when I park the car. I have a cover for her in the garage and I have padded the side with foam used to insulate plumbing pipe sewed on the inside of the cover. We have only a 2 car garage and have two cars in it.

Sorry the 280 bar is stright as it passes the diff, and it needs a bend to clear it. I found that a bar from a EARLY 260 will work , by the way the end links will work as they are all the same length. Does your 240 have the hangers on the body pan for the mounting bushings? My '73 had them so it was a simple installation. Hope this is of help . Gary

one thing when you get the pan off check the gasket surface and see if there is any warpage. If the pan was tightend too tight this can cause the pan to warp with highs and lows along the gasket surface. You may need to flaten the sheet metal back out , so that the gasket will seal. Like what was already stated don't over torque the bolts . When you clean the pan , don't disturb any sludge or crud in the inside of the block. Trying to wype out the inside can loosen pieces and clogg oil passages when you refill and start the engine. Good to see you on the site Phred . Gary

I HAVE MINE OFF AT THE MOMENT . If you want a paper template it would be a snap to make one . The sheet metal is there to protect the filler hose from rocks and debris thrown by the tire. I have mine off because I pulled the tank to do body work on the rear vallance and to also eliminate the evap. tank .

The slight differences in the compression don't amount to anything. I doubt that an ajustment will change anything , unless you have a clicking , loose rockers. The slight flat spot on first start up from a stop could be caused by a couple of things. Three actually 1. if the mixture adjustments are set a little lean . 2. if the oil in the dashpots is too thin. Recomend 20wt 3. vacume advance is failing or has failed . Just a couple of thoughts to look at. One way to check the lean mixture is to warm the engine to normal running temp. Like when you have driven the car for 15min. or more. With the cover off the air cleaner and the engine at idle, ''blip'' the throttle to full open . That is, open , shut quickly as you can. If you get a pop out of the carbs , one or both , this is a lean pop. Just reach under the carb and turn the mixture adjustment ''knob'' 1/8 of a turn counter clockwise . Repeate the test , if a pop continues repeat the adjustment as before. If you can find out what oil was put in the carbs, ATF or Mystery oil can cause the flat spot also. Thicker oil will richen the first speed up of the engine and may cure the problem. My 2cts

As long as the diff is in good shape and the gear ratio you want , there is no reason to change . I know a couple of Z drivers with V-8 and they are running 180 and not having any problems. I made the switch only because of the gear ratio and a good buy on the parts. Gary

Carl , in the instructions I wrote you will find information on how to assemble the puller in such a way that it will spread the two halves apart. Take a measuerment first , then spread the halves 1/8'' farther that stock . When the nuts are relaxed it will spring back about 1/16'' and it will allow you to reassemble with out trouble. You should be able to use the old pins using this puller , since you don't need to pound on them. Keep me posted on how things go for you . By the way be sure to lube the all thread before you start . Gary

Carl, why did you want the spindel puller if you are done with the job ???? Gary

A couple of things . Have you checked the ujoints ? My car was doing the same thing on a left turn and it turned out to be a ujoint on the half shaft. I ended up replacing all four . As it turned out 2 of the four were going to be a near future problem one was bad and the fourth was good but I dident want to pull all apart again so I just did them all. The other thought I had was a slack e-brake cable or linkage. Is the e-brake functional ? If loose this could be contacting the drive shaft. It could also be a axel bearing going out in the rear as well . This will show up when aditional load is put on the wheel in a turn. Hope this is helpful. Gary

Yes there is a restricter in the return line. right at the end of the rail where it attaches to the rubber line at the front of the valve cover . the end of the rail was closed with about a .015'' hole in it . Try a pump from a RX-7 , one from a carbed engine , not injected . I bought mine for $15.00 at the bone yard 3 yrs ago and it works great. We tried it on a tripple Mikuni's setup on stroker engine and it worked vary well . Gary

I have a pin puller for loan ! all I ask is that it be returned to me and that the bower pay the shipping both ways. If interested contact me and include the zip and I will find out the cost of shipping . I am thinking it would be about $6.00 each way. This makes the job a 30 min. on each side and you can do it on the car. It also presses the new bushings in. Gary P. S . this is for members only please.

I checked my references and came up with the same numbers . You might think of pulling the rear plate and check the numbers on the ring gear. This will tell you for sure what you have.

I have a question for you . Say the engine has a low compression on one or two cylinders, will you pass on the car ? This is an old car with at least 100,000 miles on it . In all likely hood it will need a rebuild in the near future especially if it is driven hard. I would be more concerned about the rust than any thing else , this is what is going to be the major cost factor to repair. You can find a good engine at a bone yard for $500.00 , Replacing one floor pannel and a little other rust repair , if repaired properly , will cost double that. I noticed that there are no bumpers . If you are to buy them the rear alone is about 700.00 new if you can find one. what is with the battery in the passanger compartment ? Look under the carpet at the metal floors not the jute or the carpet , poke it with a screw driver fron the inside and from under the car to see if it is solid. If it has been repaired accept only new metal that has been welded in place , no fiberglass !! Or screwed in pannels. The engine looks dirty but ok, one thing is that you will be able to see any leaks because they havent been cleaned off. It looks like a car that has just been a driver for someone .

I remember reading the post on the tripple SUs . As I recall the crux of the issue is the dual SUs will flow all the air that is needed and or required for all but the highly modified Strokers. And why the tripple SUs dont work is about the volicity of the fuel air mix traveling through the manifold and head to the cylinder. Because of the fireing order of this engine this flow is disrupted and the "charging" of the cylinder is off cycle and the "charging " effect of the flow is disrupted. Off hand I cannot remember the name of the member who posted the explaination .

just for future reference , to get fuel to the mec. pump all you need to do is take a rag and an airline and put A LITTLE PRESSURE in the tank , this will force fuel to the front . It is better than tasting the fuel , healther too. Glad you solved the mystery . Gary:classic: