mark belrose
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Posts posted by mark belrose
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being a piece of chromed plastic, maybe someone needs to find an NOS and start making a mold of them. They should cost less than $100 each to make and you get $100 easy. The other is the fuse/ashtray thing. Does anyone work with a company that molds plastic chrome toys or car parts?
I think another good candidate for reproduction would be the small plastic piece which holds the map light lens in place on the early 240's. I've tried Motorsport and a few others and all state NLA. As those pieces get old and brittle, they're very susceptible to cracking when installing via the two screws.
Mark
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Transmission fluid leaking past the input shaft seal. The seal may have been improperly seated during the rebuild, but in my experience it is far more likely that the transmission was over-filled. Unlike most domestic transmissions, the Datsun transmissions are not supposed to be filled until the fluid starts dripping from the filler plug hole, but instead should have the proper measured amount of lube added. Don't ask me how I learned this... :stupid:
Another possibility is the input shaft is worn where it is overriden by the seal, as is the case with my car. In an attempt to stop my leak, I installed a new seal into a slightly different position where it is not fully pushed in against the transmission case. This slowed down the trickle, but in the end it looks like I'll need to replace the input shaft to complete stop the leak.
Mark
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Autox in Lompoc? How convenient for you! I'll let some friends know and maybe you'll get a couple more Datsuns down there. I wish I could join you. We just hit the rainy season here. We won't hardly see the sun for another 6 or 7 months.
Here's the link: http://vaportrailvettes.com/forms-flyers/autocross2009.jpg Don't know how many cars they're accepting or whether the field is full.
Mark
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Mark, I'll be running spring rates that work better with the AD struts. Let me know when you put them on ebay.
Will do Jon. I'm always open for interesting trades on performance equipment too. The old struts are still on the car, though hopefully not much longer.
FYI a local Corvette club is running an autocross this weekend here in Lompoc. I'm going to take my red street 240Z with Ground Control coil-overs and heat-cycled-out RR compound Hoosiers and have some fun. Too bad you're not back in Cali to enjoy the fun! I give you credit for explaining to me the whole coil-over theory some years back at Buttonwillow.
Mark
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Since I was mentioned, let me add some information:
Spring Rates and Shocks
The rebound damping in a shock is closely tied to the spring rate. Shocks, even if they are adjustable, are designed to work within a specific range of spring rates. For our S30s the ranges are:
Tokico HP - stock to 200 lb. in.
Tokico Illumina - stock to 250 lb. in.
Tokico HTS (D-spec) - 150 to 300 lb. in.
Koni 8610-1437 - 225 to 400 lb. in.
Koni 8611-1259 - 225 to 400 lb. in.
FYI John I finally gave up on the Advance Design inserts - never could get them to work correctly with any of the 250-325 lb. spring rates I was using. I'm changing over to Koni 8611-1259s next season.
Mark
'70 240Z C Production restored privateer
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I've still got John Coffey's block, although it's now bored to 3.1L. My shift light is set at 7k and my Electromotive HPV1 limits the revs to 7.5k. I'm not quite as comfortable as John was running it up any higher, and the chassis dyno showed that with my current cylinder there was nothing to be gained up there anyhow. Last year's rebuild showed the main bearings were like new after a season's use.
Greg, is there any chance your block might be flexing? I'm running a stiff ARE pan with larger allen head bolts to inhibit flexing, although I don't know for sure if it's actually helping.
Mark Belrose
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VARA's Route 66 Classic at Auto Club Speedway (Cal Speedway) is happening March 7-8. Several Datsuns will be racing in various categories, including at least five 240Zs that I know of in C Prodution.
The following excerp was copied from the CentralCoastZCar website, authored by Scott Burkhardt of Club Z:
Hello Everyone!
I am excited, a very cool special event is happening!!!
Group Z and other So Cal Z Clubs have been invited to come to the V.A.R.A. Route 66 Classic at Auto Club Speedway March 7Th. Come out and see vintage Datsuns duke it out wheel to wheel with Porches, Alphas, Mazdas and more. Larry says "Be sure to wear your Datsun shirts because the garages will be open. Come show your colors and say hello to the different teams". Special arrangements have been made so we can all park together car show style in the infield area. There are good places you can sit to watch the race but if you want to hang out with your car bring a chair.
Cost: $10 per person. Bring the attached flyer and get a 2 for 1 discount. DANG! $10 to see 160 MPH Datsuns whooping on Porches and everyone else. What a deal!
$20 per car if you would like to do the lunch time drive around on the track.
Proceeds from this event go to charity.
It is OK to bring food but, NO PETS are allowed even if you planned to eat them. Food and alcohol will be sold at the track.
Ear plugs may make you more comfortable, depending on where you end up sitting. I'm bringing mine.
Where is this fine indulgence into vintage racing happening?
Auto Club Speedway
9300 Cherry Ave
Fontana, CA 92335
Enter off of Cherry Ave(main entrance), follow the special event signs, head toward the garages, look for garage #2 and ask for Darleen. She will tell you where to park and help you with consent forms if you bring your kids.
Qualifying begins at 8 am. Darleen said to show up between 9 and 10 am but you can come earlier if you want to watch qualifying. Racing begins around 11:30.
I can't wait. I hope to see you there!
Scott Burkhardt
Event coordinator, Group Z.
The flyer with two for one coupon is available for download at http://www.vararacing.com/
Hope to see you there!
Mark Belrose
1970 vintage C Production 240Z
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Hello I just got a 1972 240z wiper motor is dead.
I just dont want to pay $300 for a used motor.
Need one soon because it's raining
I've got the wiper motor from my original '70 C Production race car sitting in my attic. As far as I know the wiper motor was never used, as the car was taken off the showroom and stripped of extraneous parts. The plastic encasing the harness is brittle and the plastic surrounding the 5-prong plug is cracked (the car including stripped parts sat in the Mojave Desert for years). At least the unit has no rust. I'd put it away in the event the unit from my street car failed, but since I never drive that car in the rain it's sort of a moot point. Probably $100 including shipping from central CA, and I'll guarantee it. Let me know if interested.
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I've got a 240Z Owner's Manual, issue date 20 July 1970, in excellent shape. It came with the car I bought 16 years ago. I'm not in the market to sell as it is a piece of the car's history, but was just wondering what this type of item is bringing these days.
On another note, I've got the original SCCA log book for my other 240Z, documenting competition as a privateer at Riverside in 1971. That's yet another piece of literature being kept in a safe place. As compared to the Owner's Manual, it's of high value to me but likely of little value to anyone else.
Mark
'70 240Z street/open track
'70 240Z vintage SCCA C Production
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I vaguely remember the springs on my old BRE/Interpart suspension as being somewhere in the 210/220 range. I had them tested and they exactly matched those advertised within the early '70's catalog. Of course that's many years earlier than your springs, so no telling what changes in suppliers and specifications has taken place since. I'm sure someone like Carl or Ron Carter may be able to pipe in with the actual specs for springs purchased during that period. It's interesting that racers generally seem to be running much higher spring rates nowadays vs. what worked well for BRE back then.
Regardless, the best bet to determine their spring rates is to take them to a racing fab shop and have them measure them. Only takes about a minute for them to do it.
Mark
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So what would you suggest then?
L28 w/ E31 head that will have ported valves, and larger chamber to make up for machine work
or
L24 w/ E31 heat that will have ported valves and either a stage II or stage III cam?
I'm still having a hard time, and am going to try to get this engine in the shop within a week or two.
I think that I will go ahead and just stick with what I already got. Seems like it might also be a little cheaper too anyways and I could always get an L28 block later, or stroke my L24.
Not trying to throw a wrench in your plans I agree with e_racer1999 that the most cost effective to build a nice motor is to obtain an old L28 block with flat top pistons for $100 and use something other an E31 head to bolt to it. A mild cam, minor porting and a header will do improve it even further, and you won't have to back your ignition timing or use race gas.
Enlarging chambers on an E31 is tricky work and best left to experts to maintain good flow and burn. It's not just a matter of going at it with a die grinder. Your other scenario of building a stroker could result in a very nice motor but be prohibitively expensive.
Just my .02 dollars
Mark
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Ok thanks for that,
Ill send them an e-mail and see if they have them in 86mm, closest I can find so far is 86.1mm, but that means getting the block bored out.........
Jay
FYI your machine shop would most likely perform a quick hone on the cylinders to accept your slighly larger pistons. A lot cheaper and faster than boring the block.
Mark
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I've kept my eyes on the pricing of used Minilites for quite some time during my endeavor to acquire a 4th wheel to make my set of 3 complete. Over the past few I've seen complete sets of 14x6.5s go for $400-$600 on Ebay, depending on condition. If the wheels you are considering are indeed magnesium, make sure to get them crack checked before running them on your Z. They're also a pain to keep clean as they oxidize immediately.
Mark
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L28 – Flat Top Pistons (79-83) & E31 Head
Swept Volume of Cylinder = 458.9
Combustion Chamber volume = 42.4
Gasket Thickness = 7.7
Deck Height = -3.69
505.31/458.9 = 11.1 C/R with a positve deck height
509.0/458.9 = 11.09 C/R with 0 deck height
FWIW,
Carl B.
OK, I'm still not sold on the calculated compression Carl stated above. Please see the attached image and verify if I'm way off regarding input into the calculation program. I guess-timated a deck height of -0.3mm which I believe should not be too far off for stock flattop pistons and used a gasket thickness of 1mm to come up with the 10.2:1. Here's the link since as it's not very clear on the image: [email=http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html]http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html
Mark
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Where are you coming up with these compression numbers? Unless you had an L28 setup with positive deck height pistons, you shouldn't be getting anything near 11:1 (my quick search shows 10.2:1 with flat top pistons). Using earlier L28 blocks with dished pistons further reduced that compression ratio. Also, make sure to enter into your cost equation the installation of larger valves into your E31. Othewise there wouldn't be much point in even considering that head/block combo.
Mark
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Based solely on the lift and duration figures Motorsport shows on their website, their Stage IV cam is most similar to Isky's Stage III cam, and Isky has nothing comparable to the Motorsport Stage III you're considering. So I have to apologize for leading you astray in that respect.
That said, I've been running Motorsport's (Schneider) .480 lift cam for years on my street car with nice upper end power and a reasonable idle. It appears the cams through Motorsport are a bit cheaper but Isky's springs are $28 less expensive, so it's a wash price-wise. I chose the Isky cam it because it had the best specs for my type of racing.
Mark
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A nice source of cams can be found at: http://www.iskycams.com/pdfcatalog/2004-05/page176.pdf
I just purchased a new .590 lift cam there for a tad less than $200 to replace the one I destroyed last weekend.
Mark Belrose
original '70 CP SCCA restored 240Z
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Attached shows my dash setup integrated with the cage. Makes it pretty simply to modify as needed. Looks like you would have no problems fabricating a similar setup based on the good quality of work on your fuel cell. Hope this gives you some ideas.
Mark Belrose
'70 restored vintage C Production 240Z
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I remember when you were having trouble with the headgasket, but I don't recall the specifics. I think you were using a metal gasket that was completely dry. Did you ever try the copper spray on the gasket? I think it's pretty mandatory on that gasket to get it to seal.
Hey Jon. I couldn't get the metal head gasket to seal against that o-ringed block. The o-rings had been installed pretty unevenly so that there was quite a variation in their height protruding out of the block. Apparently the metal head gasket was unable to conform over them to produce a tight seal even with copper coat. I finally filed the o-rings to a few thousands above the block and used a Victor Reinz gasket, and never had any problems after that.
Mark
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you don't want to run a little above the deck for more compression?
Not sure yet about that one yet. The JE's I have were designed to run at 13:0 compression at zero deck height with my N42 head and 1mm head gasket. I'm debating running more deck height to get a bit more compression; seems that most of my other motors ended up around 13.5:1 with no problem blowing head gaskets. I don't see much advantage of going higher than that. I guess if we overshoot it I can always go to a 2mm gasket.
BTW I'm looking into acquiring a set of PAR billet rods from Australia. Apparently they are somewhat cheaper than Carrillos and can be got in a few weeks vs several months.
Mark
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I'm currently building an L-series stroked race motor using a diesel 83mm stroke crank. This motor's configuration is much different than normal as I'm using some special JE pistons with very small pin height (1.116"). The person I got the pistons from ran them using a 240Z crank, vs. the stroker crank I'm going to use.
I have the build sheet on the rods he'd used with those pistons. Rod length was 142.24mm using a 73.7mm stroke 240Z crank. Deck height was zero.
So if I'm doing my math correctly, the difference in stroke between the two cranks is (83mm - 73.7mm) = 9.3mm. Half of that stroke is 4.65mm. I figure that when I call Carrillo up to special order, I need a center to center spec of (142.24mm - 4.65mm) = 137.6mm. Sound correct? We're going to mock everything us using a stock 240Z rod and measure how far the piston sits below the deck, as yet another check.
Should make for an interesting motor when I'm finished. I'm looking forward to seeing how well this long-rod configuration setup will work.:cheeky:
Mark
'70 restored vintage C Production 240Z
Seriously though, they'll probably get put on Ebay; they'll buy anything over there.
What Zs are in your "Dream Garage"??
in Open Chit Chat
This one here: http://www.canepacollection.com/detail-1992-nissan-gtp-zx_turbo-5117091.html, although I might have to cut back on my beer budget a bit to pay for tires;)
Mark