zbane

Finally found the "for sale" 510, the red 240, and a nice r32 gt-r, all JadaToys products. I must say that the detail is quite nice, even on the smaller scale models. If only they would release an s130 model...

I found this underneath the passenger seat of a parts car. It reads: Robin, Thank you for your explanation. I know how you feel. I love Lenny with all my heart. But sometimes I still think of you, sexually. I'm still attracted to you and I fell guilty for it, but not very guilty. So all we can do is love our mates and be faithful. But no one said we couldn't fantacize (spelled wrong). So when I'm alone and feeling horny, I'll think of you. And maybe you and Lenny and me in a threesome. Just kidding! So, stay faithful. Burn this then eat it. Pamela Obviously, Robin didn't burn this. She just left it under the seat for who knows how many years... See Will, I finally got around to posting this.

Italian peeler+orange Z= Orange Peel?

That was a gas!

Both a garage and a nice friendly companion for said garage would be great, but my lovely will have to settle with a new set of brake pads, maybe a new differential mount, and a good vacuuming!

The ECU is in the passenger compartment, driver side, just in front of the leading edge of the door. However, if you are thinking that it is the cause of your recent issues of car not wanting to run, I would start looking elsewhere first. The ECU in our era of vehicle was really nothing more that a routing system for electrical impulses. It is not like the current generation of ECUs that rely on chips to do the thinking. If you want a simple simily, think of it like this: Our ECUs are like a hand held calculator, while the current generation ECUs are laptop computers.

I've got family outside Mexico City and I've never had any problem sending letters and the occasional package of small gifts (cd's, dvd's, packs of photos) through the USPS. I know that DHL and UPS operate throughout the country, and those certainly would offer tracking numbers, so if you are concerned about delivery, perhaps you should check into using one of them.

That's a bit of a thorny subject, don't you think?

So, since my zx is a 79...would that mean that it once had disco going in all its quadraphonic splendor? I would much rather think of Rush being pumped through the ol' system, perhaps Spirit of Radio, Yyz, or Red Barchetta...

Finally came across another 240 at my localish walmart. Have yet to come across a "for sale" z car though :mad:

Sourcing all the appropriate pieces might be a bit tough. You would need to get the "computer," wiring harness (and modify it to work), all the relays, new fuel pump, throttle linkages... or I suppose you could look into aftermarket efi systems, but I don't know what that would entail.

There are a few very comprehensive lists within this thread...get a pen and paper! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22909 Are you flying out there or driving? Remember that if you fly, you won't be able to take certain items.

Pulled up behind another red 280 zx the other day at walmart. The car was sitting right in front of the entrance, and both our cars got quite a few comments (mostly like "you don't see those everyday," and "I bet you feel like your seeing your car in a mirror"). The coolest thing about the other ZX was the build date of 9/78... The owners daughter came out of the store and said "Cool!" and her mother commented that she saw me drive in (as I saw her as I drove in). It's nice to know that there is another local driver around. Alas, no camera so no photos. Perhaps next time.

Welcome to the site! If you haven't checked your local junkyards, that would be a good place to start. If you have, you could check with your local Nissan dealer (you never know), or you could contact Blackdragonauto. I've attached a page from their online catalog for you with their contact info & such. http://www.blackdragonauto.com/

That is looking sharp, Dave! Glad to see that you are picking up the pieces and getting the Z back in top shape!

Welcome, Alex. I'm just going to rattle off a couple quick ideas for you to check. Our ZXs differ in some ways, especially when it comes to the "brain," but we share enough components that some of these might help: Check all of your vacuum hoses, they tend to dry rot and become brittle. You won't really be able to tell just by looking at them, but if you pull them off the bad ones should be pretty obvious. Check the rubber boot between the Air Flow Meter and the throttle body, as well as the hose that goes to the auxiliary air regulator. You might also want to check the PCV bit located on the driver's side of the block, about in the middle. The rubber hose that is attached to it may be leaking in air, and is a pain to remove if bad. Be careful with this piece, you really don't want to have to replace it. There is also a thumb screw on top of your throttle body that you could adjust, but since the car idles down after a bit, I doubt that this is the problem. You might also want to check all the electrical connectors on your thermostat housing. If the thermotine switch isn't sending accurate info to the brain, your car may try to compensate for what it feels is a cold start situation. Even if this is not the culprit, it's still a good idea to clean these pieces of corrosion. I'm sure I've missed some things, but these points should help narrow down the problem. Let us know your results.

The R/C 510 looks great, can't wait to for it to be released! http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=abc510model46&Category_Code=models Though I would also like to see the Skyline and Sunny from abc: http://www.abchobby.com/

Owns a 240 with a wide body kit...perhaps over at Hybridz or zcar?

It seems to me that you've got a couple different issues going on at the same time. Firstly, the bucking and kicking: This one seems a fuel delivery issue. Have you taken Beandip's advice from post #7? From the tank- there is crud in your tank. Admit it, we all have crud in our tanks, at least to some extent. As the pump pulls gas out of the tank, it pulls the crud/sediment/rust along with it. Eventually, so much stuff gets pulled into the screen (either in tank or in pump) that the fuel is no longer getting through. So, how are those screens, and how clean is your tank? If you have checked all this out and everything is good, then we proceed to the filter- filters are fairly inexpensive. They do a great job at catching the small stuff, but in doing so, they get clogged themselves. If your tank is a mess, your filter is a mess, and the lines going to the filter have a bit of mess in them as well. You are running carbs on your engine, and I know very little about carbs. Run a search on tuning carbs or wait for someone knowledgeable to chime in. The not starting and clicking sound- Bad battery, bad starter, or bad alternator. All of these can be checked at an auto parts store. Regarding the alternator: I disagree with Austen (76Datsun280z) on the alternator. A vehicle needs the battery to start, but needs the alternator to continue running. If your alternator is shot, you car will just draw the juice it needs to fire the plugs/lights/radio from the battery... until it drains the battery completely. If the clicking you are hearing is coming from the engine bay-and it clicks a lot in rapid order, it is most likely the starter solenoid actively trying to engage the starter...and failing miserably. Of course, I could be completely wrong on all counts, wouldn't be the first time. But these are some places that you should really look at. These items wear out after all. FWIW, give or take a little. EDIT/addendum: Re the radiator. This just happened to me the other day. Clogged radiator. How does the inside look from the filler neck?

Just the other day I was driving along and saw another red 280zx driving my way! It was a lovely day so the window was down, I waved and he waved back. I've had the zx for a couple years now, and this is just the 3rd one I've seen in town...and the first to acknowledge mine.

Another option for rust slowing would be to get some brush on (or rattle can) rust converter. I've used it in the past and it does certainly help. Just clean what you can, wait for a semi low humidity day, mask it off and go at it. While you are looking around, you might want to pull the cowl off and take a peek what's down there...

Additionally, you might as well go ahead and replace your radiator cap (assuming it's old) and thermostat.

Absolutely correct (of course) Stephen. I was just looking for some clarification on the poster's part as to help find the problem. From the FSM: Shutter is open during engine warm up, thereby increasing quantity of intake air causing engine speed to increase. Engine speed is decreased when passage is narrowed...After warm up, the shutter closes. Richard, how were the openings meant for the air regulator dealt with? If they have simply been plugged, try unplugging the manifold side and then try to start the engine up.

For these repairs, I would suggest that you use jack stands or ramps. Between the rear edge of the doors and in front of the rear tires you should finds some indentations in the sheetmetal's bottom edge. These indentations notch right into your stock scissor jack, and if you have the stock jack, it should show you where to put it. I have seen people use a hydraulic floor jack on the rear differential, but I've never been to keen on this method. Here's a poor quality photo that should at least help point you in the right direction.

By "air regulator," what do you mean? Have you any photographs of the engine that we could look at? The two items in the bay that I would associate with air regulation would be those circled in these photos. Regardless, you do need to have both of them. Do note that I do not have a turbo engine, so your bay will be more cluttered than mine. The base location for both items will be about the same though.