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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/05/2022 in all areas

  1. Yup in the main panel, not the drains. I would get some fine stainless mesh and melt it into the backside with a heating iron. I plastic weld panels a lot for the vehicles I repair. I'm not a fan of super glue. Really doesn't work that well in this situation. A good epoxy might work but the nice thing about plastic welding is it allows to to work the repair some when it gets soft and dress it smooth when it cools. I would mesh across the hole and repunch the hole when it cools. Google some videos for plastic welding.
    4 points
  2. I can’t wait to try them out! I finished painting all the parts and removing the bushings. I’ve started to reinstall the front end and making progress but it’s definitely slower than removal!
    3 points
  3. Here is the Konig Rewind in the 16" version - silver finish with machined lip, 0 offset. The tire size is 205/55X16 as per other's recommendations. This setup will closely match the OE tire diameter and avoid speedo errors. You can sometimes catch them on sale at MSA, try and watch for free shipping. Discount Tire is also an excellent source, especially if you negotiate a wheel & tire package discount.
    3 points
  4. Your OE antenna switch has three wires: one for power into the switch, the others for power out to the antenna. Your FSM wiring diagram will identify the wire colors. One antenna lead is to power the antenna up and the other is to power it down. The OE antenna is grounded through the body to the car's body via the mounting bracket. Check the wiring diagram on the new antenna to confirm how it functions. Does it also self-ground thru the body? Do the two leads power the antenna up and power it down? Try a bench test on the new antenna to confirm how it functions. Many aftermarket antennas are designed to automatically power up when the radio turns on and then automatically retract when the radio is turned off. If the new Harada functions this way it will be tough to use the OE antenna switch.
    2 points
  5. Don't feed the troll! Loving the build. Encouraged by the ease with which you removed the spindle pins, since I'm going to have to do that eventually. I'm also considering the Eibach + Koni combo; would be eager to hear your impressions.
    2 points
  6. Thank you!! As I get older I try to forget these but the system sure doesn't forget!! 😉 Hope y'all are having a good time with your Z's. I need to dig mine out of the garage and have a little more fun this summer. Mike
    1 point
  7. I just saw on the forum I actually have the right part. Thank you. They are indeed felpros for a ford. I am far from doing the build, right now I am just gathering the parts needed for the build. Don't plan on pulling the motor till July when my friends schedule frees up so no rush.
    1 point
  8. Folks, exhaust is in. I seal threaded the drain and filler bolts and fill the oil via the speedometer hole. I use the cheappo hand pump from harbor freight till the oil start creeping out the speedometer. Then I raise the engine up a bit to drain more oil out. The speedometer and filler holes are pretty close horizontal wise. fire up the car start immediately. Gosh I miss the clunker, old, noise sound. The transmission is so quiet. No more rattle noise took for a spin and it does feel smooth. Shifting gears are so nice. This is what driving car suppose to be. will do more drive test. Did I tell you I miss this old, manual, noisy car sound. The goddess, pleasant 3k+ internal combustion explosions per minute !!!
    1 point
  9. The benefit of the 16s is that you have a better tire selection.
    1 point
  10. Another side project I've been working on is creating a platform to sell some of the parts I have made during this build. Feel free to check it out: Hadashigarage.com Mods, please remove if not allowed.
    1 point
  11. Wow dude! You forgot the candles!!!! That’s some alternative to cake !!! Happy birthday big man.
    1 point

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