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    KenFirch

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    240260280

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/30/2021 in all areas

  1. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? If so, how? Changing carbs, or going EFI, is following the same route as the guy who put the Webers on did. I know, the Webers replaced those pesky flat top Hitachi things, but the flat tops can be made to operate correctly, give the proper maintenance and adjustment. Your car looks like it has been neglected for a considerable amount of time. Get rebuild kits for the carbs, and replace the intake/exhaust manifold gasket. Put the fuel return back into the system. Then adjust and tune the carbs.
    3 points
  2. Decided to rebuild the front and rear suspension on my 73 Z. Decided to splurge and buy the Koni Yellows, and Eibach progressive springs. Going mostly rubber bushings instead of poly since it's mainly for pleasure driving. Going to tackle the front first. I wasn't planning on dropping the subframe, but couldn't remove the lower control arm bolts without hitting the rack. Made a couple metal bars and used the anti-sway bar bracket bolt holes to support a piece of wood, which held the engine up resting on the oil pump. Easier than dragging out my engine lift. Sand blasted the subframe and repainted. I used poly bushings for the rack mounts. To remove the LCA bushings I drilled a couple holes through the rubber, then used a coping saw to saw around the rubber to remove. Then cut inside of the outer bushing steel with a hacksaw as suggested in other threads. To remove and install new bushings I used a 35 mm deep socket on the bottom, and a 1" socket on the top. The 35 mm seems to support the welded in A-arm bushing good to support it without deforming the LCA. When I dropped the Koni's into the strut housing, I had a 6 mm gap instead the required 1-4 mm. Called MSA and they quickly shipped a set of the gland nuts with the relief cut, which got it down to 3 mm. I guess Nissan had a few different suppliers for the strut housings, which made them slightly different. Here's the only way I could figure out how to hold the strut while torquing the gland nuts. Used an aluminum block with just enough pressure to keep it from turning. Here's the assembled pair ready to go. Cleaned up the wheel wells with Simple Green and a brush. Looks pretty good without the dirt and grime. New ball joints and tie rod ends too. Ken
    2 points
  3. I have a vague memory of @EuroDat posting about this. You should put "Bosch relay" in your title. That will catch the eye of the people who know.
    1 point
  4. American Libres I believe.....Zedyone had a knock off set.
    1 point
  5. Scientist making spike protein discovery developed HIV vaccine so, it is credible claim. The story is just coming out now; so more news sites will soon cover it... remember the reality of a lab leak took a year for most to accept when most of us knew it from the start. The problem is that Science has gone the way of Religion.... it started with the higher truths being thrown out.... the truth bar is very low now. More here: https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-9629563/Chinese-scientists-created-COVID-19-lab-tried-cover-tracks-new-study-claims.html
    1 point
  6. Not Z related, but I ran a pair of SpinTech mufflers on my old 66 GT-350. It was the only time I was ticketed for excessive noise by the police in Sacramento! Subsequently changed to FlowMasters. They did sound awesome though.
    1 point
  7. They might be 300Zx injectors. But they're definitely not 280Z or 280ZX injectors. There's no barb on the inlet and the seal on the intake end is wrong. That's the design that came after the 280ZX style. Not worth much. You can usually get wrecking yard injectors for about $5 each. Plus if those have been sitting out for a while they might be rusty inside. Look for numbers molded in to the plastic if you want to figure out what they came from.
    1 point
  8. I'm reinstalling the dash, and checking wiring, connections, etc. I was not getting power to the ACC or IG busses in the fuse panel. I could hear the ignition relay 'click' with the key in the Acc or ON positions, and I could see power from the fusible link getting to the white-red wire at the bottom of the C6 connector. I pulled the dash back enough to back-probe the ignition relay connector, and confirmed that voltage was getting to the ACC and IGN contacts, but was not passing through when the relays were energized. I removed the ignition relay, and further confirmed by testing that both relays would click, but would not pass power through their contacts. This forum says the relay is not easily replaced, so I thought I would dig deeper. Start by bending back the cover tabs (circled), but try to be careful of the ground tab (arrow): Open the relay while trying the use the ground tab as a 'hinge': Admittedly, these relays appear to be in sad shape. But further examination showed that the contacts (circled) were actually in excellent condition, but there was a buildup of rust and crud between the coils and armatures (arrow): Note that by this time, I had broken the ground tab (square), which appears to have been spot-welded to the relay case. Clean up the crud with a folded over piece of 1000-grit: Retest both relays to make certain they are really snapping closed and making good contact. Put the relays back into the cover, and re-crimp the tabs to hold it together. If you broke the ground tab, solder a pigtail to the tab. Note that I tried, but could not reliably solder the tab back to the cover where it had originally been welded. When reinstalling the relay, be sure to put the existing ground wire under the relay mounting tab, and then you can put your pigtail ground under the same mounting bolt on top of the relay mounting tab. If the contacts had not been in good condition, I would not have done this, but would have instead resorted to wiring in new relays,
    1 point
  9. hmmmmm, " An aggressive street muffler for the performance enthusiast where clearance and space issues need to be addressed and want a quieter sound." An aggressive street muffler with a quieter sound? Although it does sound pretty good here if you FF 1min. 50 sec.
    1 point
  10. I have the same logic. Which makes me wonder, what don't I know. It's why I reserve my decision on whether all the forced closures are worth it or not Look at Korea & Japan. That is one reason why they have done as well with the virus as they have @240260280 I read an article recently about crematoriums. In it the owner was talking about how much capacity he had with each unit. I did some back calculations based on Wuhans 3 crematoriums working 24/7 and 5 units each and the numbers were really serious. That doesn't include the portable capacity they brought in and the fact they were not worried about the PC aspects of no smell or ash discharge that require longer cremation times. I suspect your 60k is pretty close or even low. It wouldn't surprise me if they had 100k dead. I suspect, international governments are making decisions based on information we lack. such as the true death toll and total infections. That is why they are choosing to shut everything down
    1 point

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