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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/11/2021 in all areas

  1. My kids picked up a 3D printer over the holidays, so I thought I try to figure it out and learn how to use it. I just happened to be replacing the rubber wipes on the door window trim, and noticed there were no end caps. Not sure if this is how the car came, or just went missing over the years. I downloaded FreeCAD and started to play around with it. After a lot of youtube videos, I was able to design and print some caps. Haven't installed them on the car yet to confirm the overall fitment, so hopefully no issues. I used PLA filament for the sample pieces (it's the only one I have at the moment). If these work out, I will pick up some ABS filament and reprint them.
  2. No. And if it keeps getting hot the tape will get all melty and gooey. Big mess.
  3. You might just have a dirty/poor connection and the resistance is causing heat. Maybe get a new center wire and a new cap and make sure that the wire is pressed al the way in. There really shouldn't be much heat generation there.
  4. No gloves either. I've done spot welding in a similar fashion, doing the same thing this guy is. Set the wire where you wand to make the weld, close your eyes squeeze the trigger briefly, let go, open your eyes. You can move pretty quickly through the work, but it is not good for not only your eyes (your eyelids don't block enough of the light intensity) but the ultraviolet radiation from the arc is worse that too much sun exposure. I wear lightweight leather gloves (no synthetic materials when joining metals with electric fire), a long sleeve thin suede leather coat that goes on backwards, like that gown they give you at the doctor's office, only waist length), and an autodarkening full face hood with a suede leather flap attached to the chin to shield my neck from the arc light. With the autodarkening viewport there is less fipping up of the hood, which is why guys don't wear one. The leather prevents risk of skin cancer dramatically. Also a good idea to avoid the vapors, smoke and fumes, hey are full of toxic stuff, better yet, a respirator with organic cartridges, or one of those flexible hood things that suck the nasty stuff away.
  5. No such thing as cut and paste back then. In the 1960’s Lyndon Johnson accidentally called the Blackbird aircraft the “SR71” its actual designation was RS71. A team of stenographers had to retype every document so as not to embarrass the friendliest President NASA ever had. To this day of course, the plane is still called the SR71 Blackbird and NASA still has one they use for test flights. For this reason, I doubt these documents were simple cut/paste.
  6. No, in fact my scans are from two original sources: The 'Competition Tune-Up Manual' for the A10-series, and the 'Competition Tune-Up Manual' for the N10-series. The Sumitomo MK63 type brake calipers were used as Sports/Race Option on many Nissan models, so the information is duplicated in many source documents including - as you pointed to - the BS110 '240RS'.
  7. It seems the wire is heating near the top of the black end that is melting. You may be able to use a thermo-gun to measure the temp of the wire at that point and also at the same point but the other end,,,, then reverse the cable to see if a possible higher temperature remains at the distributor end or if it moves to the coil end. This will tell you if the cable or cap is the problem.
  8. I'm thinking I^2 * R. Charge just builds up on the coil to rotor button section then jumps. That plug-wire to cap contact is huge compared to the small button touch point so it is difficult to see how it could be so resistive there. The connection must be very corroded to heat up and melt plug wire? I don't get it.
  9. I saw it once before, 13 years ago. A gentleman was selling a 260Z on Craigslist. He dropped the price from $3,200 to $2,500 because it wouldn't run. It took me a while to figure out what was wrong as I was much lower on the curve for diagnostics skills, but I finally pulled the coil wire off the cap and saw pretty much what @chaseincatsfound. The seller got his $2,500, and I got the 260Z.
  10. I've got several parts on my '74 thanks to my son's printer.
  11. 1 point
    I just pulled it up in AutoCad and it loads perfectly, and to-scale. Excellent!
  12. That's a snazzy looking hood. I own two (not the Optrel), the first I bought when they first came on the market, paid $100 for it. The second one was free. After leaving the electric utility after 30 years I hired on with the county road shops, working on their fleet. The first thing the manager did was tell me to pick up a welding hood the next time I went by the welding shop, and put it on the county account. That one is a bit nicer, if I recall correctly it cost about $250.
  13. This guy is amazing but really weird looking. Me thinks he has a problem with stage fright maybe? Great guitarist though. A KFC chicken bucket on his head. That is too funny. @kats
  14. Or visions of her leading her blind boyfriends around?
  15. Or visions of leading her blind husband around. 😎 That's a spendy item but one medical visit probably breaks even, besides long-term risk. https://www.amazon.com/Optrel-Crystal-Auto-Darkening-Welding-1006-900/dp/B07LHDC74K
  16. May I recommend the Crystal 2.0 hood from Optrel. In a really good light, the lens is so transparent I sometimes forget I've already flipped it down. The problem is, I've also fallen for it the other way 'round. I thought it was down, and it wasn't. Damn it! When you're using MIG to weld these bodies, you have to pulse-fire it. Without auto-darkening, you'll go crazy, so the squeeze eyes shut trick lets you get the job done, at a cost. Which I submit is much, much higher than the hood cost. My wonderful wife took pity on me and gave me the hood for Christmas last year. Along those lines, I used to know a painter who would smoke and shoot at the same time. Can't wear a mask if you're smoking, right? What could go wrong? He has to "retire" in his forties. Never saw him again. I'm pretty sure he was impervious to the chemistry of the paint we were using. 🙄
  17. I remember visiting a friend in high school with another buddy and messing around with her dad's arc welder. They were doing a down to the frame rebuild of a 63 Impala. He started trying to weld with the "close your eyes" method. I left before he did and didn't see him in school for two days. He was blind from burned retinas. It cleared up but I'm sure it was a scary time.
  18. C&H have a new Facebook page (dated 2019) which announces that the operation has moved from California to El Paso, Texas. Jim is still mentioned as one of the contact people.
  19. I cut 0.050" off a P79 head on my race car engine. I slotted the chain guides to take up the slack and then I used the eccentric bushing method from the "How to Modify Your Datsun..." book to dial in the cam timing. It works great and pulls strong. I like the P79 for this because the chamber shape is better for knock resistance compared to the E88, and N47.
  20. Thank you! Should be on the road within the next month. Just finishing up the glass, rubber and some misc. work!
  21. Racers are all too aware of the 260/280 floorpan hump on the driver's side. We have to cut the hump out to fit a race seat lower than the stock seat.
  22. I have a question. The driver side floor pan seems to have a lot of extra metal at the point where it meets the transmission tunnel. The passenger side seems fine. I am wondering if I have the correct floor pan?My concern is that if I extend the metal up the tunnel, the seat supports won't fit anymore. There is about 4 inches gap at the tunnel to the curve of the floor pan. If I bend the floor pan in to meet the tunnel, the two drain plugs against the tunnel will be vertical and the entire curve will be gone. Basically the tunnel starts where the floor pan forms the U channel. If this is normal, I understand some metal work is needed!
  23. I would have, gladly, but I came across info a year or more back that Chester and Herod closed. Their facebook page has an indication that the business is permanently closed. https://www.facebook.com/chesterandherod1924 Carpet is relatively cheap compared to other parts of the restoration. I would love to have authentic reproductions made.

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