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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/25/2020 in all areas

  1. Just putting my head around the door to tip my hat at the big 51.
    3 points
  2. It's all reinstalled and working properly! Put it everything back in the door yesterday, but didn't have the opportunity to takes pictures until today. I believe the smudge you can see on the window is from excess grease - not a scratch. Thanks everybody!
    2 points
  3. That sag is on all four sides of four screw carb isolators. I believe it was intentional as the sag looks the same on all four. Three screw carb isolators are flat on three sides and a different shape on the bottom for the water passage.
    2 points
  4. Also the shape of the S30 Z cars requires that all of the seals on the rear half of the car be in good shape or your gonna get lots of fumes
    2 points
  5. Got the new seat upholstery installed. Also added the brake booster and master cylinder. Got the new exhaust system installed along with a few more hoses and interior parts. Also picked up the cowl and fuel door from Miguel. Fenders and hood will be ready in two weeks.
    2 points
  6. @One Way, I think I have a unicorn you might be interested in. Back when I had my 280z it was missing the D/S hood vent drip pan so when I was at our local Z clubs swapmeet I picked up a pan for my car. When I got it home I could not figure out how to mount it, it wouldn't fit, it was then that I realized that some clever guy had made an identical pan for the passenger side. Here it is, it's very well done. It is useless to me as I don't own that car anymore, it's all yours for the price of shipping.
    2 points
  7. What I’ve learned from all I’ve read, in what I hope is a succinct way is that: 1. ZDDP - is important in the correct amount as it creates a “sacrificial” layer for our non-roller cams and reduces wear on big end bearings. Others argue that modern lubricants are so much better than what was available in the 70s and you don’t really need it. I have read that it’s particularly important on modified engines with stronger than stock valve springs causing greater friction between the fam and rocker surfaces. I personally err on the side of caution and would rather have ZDDP mixed in the correct
    1 point
  8. First, let me comment that those carbs and manifolds are true automotive jewelry - absolutely stunning! Your mention of the fuel rail caught my attention so here are a few observations. The supply nozzle positions for the flat-tops are substantially different than for round-tops so I recommend you get a fuel rail from a '70-72 model car - the pic is a Series 2 style from the later '71's and 72's. The rail is longer and correctly positions the nozzles for the feed to the floats. As @Patcon mentioned, the asbestos wrap is a big caution. They put it on the '72's and later, carbed and injecte
    1 point
  9. Stop worrying so much, those are not areas famous for rusting out.
    1 point
  10. Perhaps the comparable key points can be limited to lubrication/wear, deposits, replacement interval, seal interaction, and costs.
    1 point
  11. A chap here tuned nearly the same engine so perhaps we can compare your set up to his to see if there are significant differences. If the smell of gas is from the car then you may have the same issue with EFI. There are a few gas hoses that pass through the cabin that age and release fumes. We can guide you though checking. The DCOE carbs also have fuel bowls vented through the air filters so that can easily fume out a garage where you store the car. An air box may reduce that smell.
    1 point
  12. Wow wow wow... I haven't thought about that movie in forever! I've seen it a bunch times, but unfortunately don't remember any good lines or situations. All I remember is a dead guy and one guy was very afraid to drive a certain color car. Yellow maybe? Red? Saw himself in a mirror on the highway? @Pilgrim, I just watched that clip you posted. I remembered it as it played. That was excellent! Disappointed I didn't remember that without the hint.
    1 point
  13. Waiting on a part for the waste oil furnace. A transformer that makes the spark for igniting the oil, 120 volts in, 10,000 volts out. Well, when it works like it should. Mine doesn't, and the package guy will have a new one here next week. So I got a wild hair and decided to rearrange the shop a bit, do some cleaning. I cleared a path, and dragged HLS305957, build date 6/70 out and assess its condition. Managed to get it out and have a cursory look, but need to move all the stuff into the slot it was in and then free up the right rear brake so I can roll it up on the lift. I got
    1 point
  14. What about when trashes the car and he says "$500? Seems a little steep to me" I love that movie too!
    1 point
  15. 1&6 fuel in 2&7 float vents to air cleaner 3&5 coolant lines 4 vacuum line to brake booster 8 positive crankcase ventilation
    1 point
  16. Try googling "cylinder head rebuild service" in your country. They are very common in the States. They would make it like new for cheaper than buying another one. Actually if you find one close by they could fix yours without removing it, possibly? I would think there's a way they could test your questions on bad seals or guides etc. maybe just by pulling the valve cover off and visually looking around. If you have a damaged seal someone with experience could tell by viewing it.
    1 point
  17. New valve seals and checking guide wear would be my next step. It's possible the #4 seal was damaged when it was installed.
    1 point
  18. Alan - were there no Zs of any form raced in Japan before 1970 ? https://www.racingsportscars.com/races/search.html?coun=J&year=1969 https://www.racingsportscars.com/races/search.html?coun=J&year=1970 Might the two cars in the photo : red no.8 and blue no.19 be invitational entries at...Fuji - testing ? They're certainly up against and apparently well-placed on the grid against some very serious competition.
    1 point
  19. Other than pin lubricant, and insuring the pin slides in easily before attempting the re-install, the secret is a way to rotate the pin easily back and forth while you gently push the lock pin into place. It only fits correctly with the pin rotated "just so" making it very tempting to use too much hammer to get that pin to seat. I use a pair of thin M12x1.25 nuts that I lock together back to back on one end of the pin. Then I can put a vise grip on one of them and wiggle/rotate to my hearts content with one hand as I push the lock pin home. I find the pin is never "loose" by any stretch
    0 points

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