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    Clay C

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/27/2020 in all areas

  1. Folks, bored last night got nothing else todo, while waiting for parts for other stuff. my rear mirror’s mounting/base point is broken in few pieces and missing big chunk as well. Only if I have access to CNC or a 3D printer... what the fun in it? what I did was common sense I suppose. Super glue all the remaining pieces together. create a paper template. find a scrap piece of metal. Mine is very thin. Perhaps 24 gauge. trace the template and start snipping it. a press, sharp flat chisel might be better for the center op
    2 points
  2. My favorite “in between the Nismo and Airtex” price point and functionality is the Facet FEP60SV or 477060E. Same form factor as the Original and Nismo, internal easy to change filter too. The best price is actually from aircraftspruce.com or or .ca Installed several for friends and myself, never had one fail. My two cents for the day
    2 points
  3. Yep, my 240Z has been waiting on me for a few years now...
    1 point
  4. Common sense is beginning to squeeze in thankfully. Fear the truth isn't working in Alabama, that's bad because "we're" scared of you Yankees. I need to apologize for my bad choice of a word. I love all you guys no matter where you live. The man that lives in the WH is from Queens and he's a scaremonger. He's not scaring anybody I know. I'm sorry, but I'm pissed.
    1 point
  5. SteveJ you are in my town. I know you are itching to come put together a car!
    1 point
  6. Maybe he was thinking all Z cars were 2+2s.
    1 point
  7. Here's a good write up on installing an electric pump. http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2013/01/electric-fuel-pump-installation.html The one he uses comes with the mount.
    1 point
  8. Here is a picture from the parts book and that small collar is not shown. Maybe it is a part that comes with the rubber boot and like you suggest is inside the end of the small end. My car has a retainer that is between the pedal end nut and the threaded ball end that prevents the assembly from pulling through the hole in firewall. I need a replacement boot as well. Mine is missing that small collar. The parts book does confirm how the parts are threaded. I hope this helps somewhat. Cheers Mike
    1 point
  9. I use this for most black parts. It is not gloss or matte, but more of a sheen if that makes sense.
    1 point
  10. THANK you!!! I was beginning to think that nobody got that at all!!
    1 point
  11. Gave engine a tuneup. Put at least 20 hours on it afterward, no problems. Car was outside during rain. Engine started running poorly, sporadically, now runs poorly, consistently. Odds aren't bad that something came loose and slowly slipped out of adjustment. I'd recheck the points gap. The lock-down screw might have loosened. There is pretty good force on the points as they open. If they slip, the gap will close and you'll get poor spark. Could also be that the distributor has turned if its lock-down screw was loose. Check timing. SteveJ suggested the same
    1 point
  12. It looks like you also have the rare hatch glass with no defrost wires ? Does you Z have the smog pump?
    1 point
  13. I was going to say these next pictures obviously aren't part of this build but technically I have used this to run around many days getting parts and shuttling supplies to and from this build so technically it is! Somewhere during this build thread I found this and had to have it. This was the very 1st vehicle I owned. My kids think its stupid and ugly but every time I climb into this beautiful, very slow, cramped, no AC having little pickup truck I am 16 years old again and couldn't be more tickled with it. Makes we want to score a six pack of Miller and go to the Rock Quarry outside of Athen
    1 point
  14. My business involves me owning and operating a lot of work trucks. The guy who's shop we are doing this has been my diesel mechanic for going on 20 years. He has done a lot of car work but mostly on newer mustangs and old Ford Pickups. I talked him into helping me out with this car and now he has hired on some other guys to do some resto and body work in an open bay beside his diesel shop......now he's getting a paint booth after my car is done! I am pleased with the paint job. We still plan on buffing as far as I know unless they all are so tired of me at this point and ban me from the shop e
    1 point
  15. After 5 yrs the vinyl wrap on my rear panels needed re-done. Vivid memories of wrestling old plastic panels and sheets of vinyl along with a hair dryer came rushing back so I decided paint would be much easier. Cleaning to old residue off was no fun but I'm happy with the results. Before and After.
    1 point
  16. This is what I didn't know....Those areas are definitly not the same as a 240! The original metal is there it is just covered up with other metal I can only assume was changed for some sort of crash rating law changes in 74-75? Of course the radiator support vertical panel is wildly different to go around all that mess. It is such a bonehead move on my part to spend so much time, money and effort trying to keep this thing as original as possible and restore this car back to normal. I really just picked the wrong car from the start. It looked good but I didn't know what I was looking at an
    1 point
  17. Some more progress photos. Slow progress but we finally got some high build primer on the hood and doors tonight. The plan was to have color on by end of the month but looks like it will be a week or so behind! Getting there!
    1 point
  18. Progress (which at times feels absolutely like none) is happening with the body work. I think. Though most of it ends up on the floor after sanding, I am now two gallons in on the high build primer and need to buy a third. That's going to be over $1000 in primer alone. Not how you should do it folks. Next time around, I think I will try applying body filler over entire panels and sanding down, followed by a few coats of sprayable polyester filler, followed by the high build primer (just a few coats should be needed). Here is a brief video showing the passenger front fender at the
    1 point
  19. They should thread off. Open end wrench on the flats of the ball joint. Flare nut wrench on the lock nut. Maybe a little penetrating oil, little prayer. Then turn it loose. Once the locknut is loose the bolt joint should unthread. You should measure first so you can reassemble to the correct length. Double check the threads direction. I believe they are lefty loosy but maybe not
    1 point
  20. I'm leaning (snort) to a fuel problem. I've experienced similar symptoms and found them to be water related. If you have any clear fuel filters, check those for water. I'd also pull a float chamber top to see if there is water in the bottom of the bowl(s).
    1 point
  21. Went over to Vancouver Island on Sunday and spent the day on a cruise with a bunch of Datsun folks, it was a enjoyable drive. Everyone did the social distancing thing. @zKars I think you would know most if not all of these cars and their owners.
    1 point
  22. Everything is interchangeable if you want it enough Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  23. I'll need to mess around with the spacing a bit, I was too eager to hear it through the freeway tunnels to get it perfectly set. But no, it isn't too low at all.
    1 point
  24. Hey thanks - cool - 1st JDM muffler fitted to an S130. Not too low ?
    1 point

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