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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/26/2020 in all areas

  1. Hi ,I missed this thread. The fake is a nice try , but it has to be described as "reproduction " . Here are my D caps comparison I believe I posted some where in this forum before. Later more teeth type is a bit darker gray but it is so subtle . Kats
    5 points
  2. Don't go there. It's a dark place.
    3 points
  3. Klassic Fab has been manufacturing quality VW Bus floor replacements for years and has recently started manufacturing floor pans and frame rails, etc for 240Zs and for other vintage Japanese cars. Here's their website: https://kfvintagejdm.com/ Pictures courtesy of The 240z Guild.
    2 points
  4. It's been a while since my last post. I finally got the Z back mid January and made some progress. Brake lines complete and suspension installed Engine bay harness installed. I still have to figure out the engine bay relay's as they did not come with the car for some reason. Trying out this new window gasket from Spaenaur #825-065 as my Z did not have any of those "S" clips that attach to the OEM fender rubber seals. I decided to go with wider Watanabe's 15X9 -13 rear and 15x8.5 -6 front and run the marugen shoukai fen
    2 points
  5. Hi Kats, Thank you for your response, I really appreciate it! By the way, your Z is beautiful! Steve
    2 points
  6. Sorry... I'm baaaaaaack. But this time it's actually with some useful input! I just snipped this from the 78 FSM (MT-18). Not sure if the other years contained this info (assuming not, or you would have simply found it and not asked in the first place), but this should answer most questions about the gear tooth counts: In 80 they they started messing around with the ratios, but this should hold for everything up to and including 79.
    2 points
  7. Cleaning up the engine electrical harness here. There was the usual dirt and oil, but also some orange overspray that had to be re-moved. Replaced most of the terminals and yellowed covers with new terminals and covers from vintage connections: http://www.vintageconnections.com/. Also, re-wrapped the harness with new tape.
    2 points
  8. I agree with this post -
    2 points
  9. Common misconception I believe. All the trans I've looked at have a 4th gear pair, just like any other gear. The only thing that is 'special' about the 4th gear set is that its ratio acts as a modifier to all the other gear set raw tooth pair ratios, since the drive power goes through the 4th gear set first, for all gears, all the time. It's only a matter of which of the lock up hubs (on each gear set) is engaged to the main shaft that determines the power path. The counter shaft is engaged and spinning all the time, and since all if its gears are engaged to the gears on the main shaft, THEY a
    2 points
  10. Made progress today. Oil pan and oil pump installed. I had a bunch of stuff Powder-coated (intake manifold, thermostat housings and some small brackets and bits and pieces). They should be here in a few days. I’ve also adjusted all the intake valves to the cold setting. I’ll do the exhaust tomorrow. I also have two ZX distributors that I’m going to clean up and check out (I think I found a write-up for rebuilding those). After some close inspection I’ll make the determination but they need to clean up for sure.
    1 point
  11. Inner rockers, and I see outer rockers too. Is there finally an alternative to the tabco rockers? Nice to see another replacement panel source come on the scene.
    1 point
  12. I like my amp meter. :) upgrade to a amp meter :) I love that word upgrade, I hear it so often when talking about old cars.
    1 point
  13. I'm not sure if this was tongue in cheek or not, but our use of the post links above were to illustrate how unreadable it makes the thread. I find the format above very disjointed and difficult to read.
    1 point
  14. One thing to keep in mind is there is significant parallax error when viewing the gauge since it's over there on the side and you're not looking at it square. I find mine "accurate when viewed from the driving position", but if I look at it "straight on", my battery voltage appears to be low. I've decided that since I'm most often looking at it from the driving position, I'm going to keep it that way. Makes me wonder if maybe they calibrated them like that on purpose.
    1 point
  15. From what I gather there are adjustments on the back of all the gauges - ducks for cover as he awaits being corrected, without mercy or compassion! I will be messing with the Rev counter soon as it’s about 10% optimistic across the range. The 123 ignition while cruising tells me this; and I’m more inclined to believe it than a 40+ year old analogue gauge. Back on topic, I was quite surprised to find that what I considered very small variations in standing voltage at room temperature show a dramatic difference in the state of charge / the health of the battery. The AGM battery used in my Aud
    1 point
  16. Personally, I would take that risk and bring back the post numbers if you can. To me, it's a lot easier to say "like so-n-so said in post #2" as opposed to saying "like in post https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63613-post-numbers/?do=findComment&comment=593189" Is this the same upgrade that nuked the condensed view of the recent activity?
    1 point
  17. Well blow off the dust ?
    1 point
  18. I had no idea what that symbol is for.
    1 point
  19. I live close to a reservation. I see them all the time.
    1 point
  20. The brake caliper bolt is the one for who wants to restore it properly. And is this a small dish able to be used for tension rod ? You can see the part number is different from the original. 54537-21003 is the original part number , I have 54537- 41L00 . I found I have twenty of them in my stash , too much . These parts are going to someone who can buy a DINO 246 for me . Kats
    1 point
  21. Hi , the green Z432 was ( still is ? ) for sale at 2150 0000 JPY when I heard about it . Lack of some original parts , and need to have proper size tires for stock appearances . Kats
    1 point
  22. Yes, the block is painted. DE1651 Cast Coat Iron from Duplicolor. I didn’t really like the look of the Datsun turquoise blue, I thought it clashed with the red engine compartment. Blasphemy to some of the Datsun hardliners but it’s a 77, not a series 1 collector car. I really like the look of this block color. I have a red powder coated valve cover and I think the colors go well together. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  23. shhhhhh dont let all the secrets out, it wont be fun reading old threads then.
    1 point
  24. For marking or confirming the damper pulley I Ike the method of marking a certain distance down on both sides of ~TDC then splitting the difference to mark zero. The crankshaft can move a few degrees at TDC with almost zero indicator movement because the rod end is moving almost sideways. Don't you trust your damper pulley marks? You don't need to be super accurate for installing the head or timing chain.
    1 point

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