Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/12/2019 in all areas

  1. On a PC, go to the top right of the screen and click on your username. Then click on Account Settings. You'll see the menu item for Signature on the left. On an Android phone, tap on the triple line toward the top right to bring up the main menu. Tap on Account to bring up the Account Menu. Then tap on Account Settings. Tap on Settings Area and you will see Signature.
  2. I know this is a really old post, but I thought I would follow up with what I learned. I tested baking hoses and it works quite well, here is what I did to form my own brake booster hoses. I started by testing a few pieces at 350 degrees for 3 different times with 1/4 od soft copper pipe to hold the shape, the first one I tested with my tire pyrometer to see how hot it was (hotter than 200 degrees in the middle of the rubber and that is the limit of the pyrometer, so I didn't test the others). I decided to go with a 7 minute bake, as you can see all three held their shape, 9 minute stunk a bit more so I went with the middle of the 3 for my final bake. I used 3/8" fuel injector hose which fit perfect, and has thicker walls than some of the other vacuum/fuel line hoses. For the real hoses I greased the copper tube so it would be easy to get out. I baked at 350 for 7 minutes, and the hoses stayed quite nice, not quite as tight as the factory lines, but they kept their shape well enough for what I needed. I think the trick is to bend them a little further than you need, and when dipping them in water, to cool them, hold the hose a little tighter than the tube holds it while pinching the other sides so it doesn't have a tendency to crush to get perfect bends. Well, that is what I did and I am satisfied with the results, it gave me a good looking formed hose without the cost of the braided ones, and if I need a new one down the road, I can easily make one for like $15 worth of stuff. The integrity of the hoses looks great, but I didn't test them in any way other than driving it around. I totally recommend this for vacuum line hoses, but I would want to test a little more before using this method for fuel injection or other higher pressure and higher risk applications.
  3. You can also use that same size copper tubing with both ends open, insert it into the full length of the hose, bend it to shape then install just as it is with no baking. The copper tube has to be about 3" shorter than the hose so there is room enough on either end for the hose to slip over the nipples. There is more than enough space inside the copper tubing to accomodate the vacuum needed by the booster.
  4. Not as much as it could have with the matching block.
  5. Happy Mothers Day... don't forget to call your moms! 😉
  6. working on a misfire using power balancing and a color tune plug.
  7. My 4 screw SUs were set to 2 1/2 turns down at sea level. The only time I had to lean them out was around 5000' heading up to Mt. Hood Timberline Lodge. (6000') At that time (hot day) the engine developed a miss. I adjusted them to 2 turns down, which cleared up the miss, and then readjusted them back to 2 1/2 turns when I got down to around 3000'.
  8. Sad but true. No buses or taxi service around here. If it'll crank and roll you're good to go.
  9. Too bad. I was thinking that might increase the appeal. Not an issue in my part of the world
  10. thanx steve. works perfect. I don't post as often as I use to. I find it's difficult to navigate. when I first joined it was much simpler. i'll try harder to use it more often. got a new old truck. i'll post pics soon. thankyou very much.
  11. Per the commentary on BaT, I certainly see how the rear valence panel is distorted (and the bumper isn't aligned and the hatch sits a little high on one side). However, I'm having trouble finding the distortion that's said to have occurred in the rear deck . It is too bad that it's not a matching-numbers engine. Matters a lot to the high-end collectors. Shifter location in the console opening suggests that at least it's got the correct 'A' 4-speed (original?) Overall, there's a lot to like about this car. Even the floors look not too bad. The dash will need attention, but the collectors didn't seem too bothered about the dash cap and the dash recover on a couple of recent high-$ Z auction cars. Hard to say these days whether an uncracked dash really commands a premium in an otherwise-desirable Z.
  12. Jeff, I put a comment on your video. Looks like the big issue you have is too much spark advance. I can tell just by the way it runs and by the way it sounds turning over. Back timing off until it runs best. Been thru this same issue on mine and others cars. Try it and let us know.
  13. I think you may have hit the nail on the head with the water pump! One, it was such a deep sound I would have never expected it. Two, I'm not so confident with engine rebuilding I was quick to assume that something had gone wrong internally. I filmed the video panning across front to back for that very reason. I definitely heard more from the front and I'm glad it came across in the video. I really had a feeling it was piston #1. Something simple, I never would have thought of the water pump sadly. I pulled it off, ran it for a quick second and the sound seemed to have disappeared. Thank you for the help, bud. I've read so much of your information on this site. If I remember correctly you went under a different alias in the past. I think it may have been solved already. The exhaust manifold was one of the first things I looked at, I should have mentioned in my original post. I know when that leaks some wonky sounds can occur. Thanks for chiming in!
  14. If the car is in poor shape structurally(rust bucket) then bracing is needed to maintain proper spacing but if the car is fairly sound and you only do one side of the floor at a time then you don't really need to brace, however you should leave the transmission mount/support in place to add some stiffness to the trans tunnel.
  15. That aught to bring good money!
  16. This might be a bit out there but if the cause isn't found soon it might be worth a look, I disassemble all new hydraulic parts I purchase because I have found more than a few things wrong over the years, muck, grease, rust, sometimes the seals are installed backward or springs missing. I hope you don't have to go that far.
  17. Could be water pump or timing chain area. It sounded louder when filming at the front and at the back. It seems somewhat random occasionally so it may not be crank related.
  18. Excellent info. Thanks for sharing.

  • Forum Statistics

    • Total Topics
    • Total Posts
  • Gallery Statistics

    • Images
    • Comments
    • Albums

    Latest Image
    By hls30.com,
  • Blog Statistics

    • Total Blogs
    • Total Entries
  • Download Statistics

    • Files
    • Comments
    • Reviews

    Latest File
    By 240260280

    4    0

  • Vehicles Statistics

    • Total Vehicles
    • Submitters
    • Total Images
    • Comments
    • Total Views

    Latest Vehicle
    Rickks240 By Rickks240
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.