Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/11/2019 in all areas

  1. I may be out of "line" here - but give me a "brake". I realize you indicated that your fronts had good pedal; but you also indicated that you replaced the calipers. Are the bleeders pointing up? The reason I ask is because - back in my misspent youth, I happen to have removed and then re-hung the calipers on the wrong sides. I am sure stocks in brake fluid went up during the days it took to solve my recalcitrant retardation. Worst case it is one more thing you can cross off of the list. Besides, who told you retirement was relaxing?
  2. Graphic illustration of why flatheads aren't very efficient.
  3. There's so many of them, thats what some people seem to forget! Even with a 90% death rate, there's still so many out there. The fact that the 432 went for 65 or 80k(can't remember which), where as the restored blue one went for 49k, this is at 43k(i'd prefer this one) shows just how strange and immature the market is.
  4. Here's the link: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-91/
  5. I know this is a really old post, but I thought I would follow up with what I learned. I tested baking hoses and it works quite well, here is what I did to form my own brake booster hoses. I started by testing a few pieces at 350 degrees for 3 different times with 1/4 od soft copper pipe to hold the shape, the first one I tested with my tire pyrometer to see how hot it was (hotter than 200 degrees in the middle of the rubber and that is the limit of the pyrometer, so I didn't test the others). I decided to go with a 7 minute bake, as you can see all three held their shape, 9 minute stunk a bit more so I went with the middle of the 3 for my final bake. I used 3/8" fuel injector hose which fit perfect, and has thicker walls than some of the other vacuum/fuel line hoses. For the real hoses I greased the copper tube so it would be easy to get out. I baked at 350 for 7 minutes, and the hoses stayed quite nice, not quite as tight as the factory lines, but they kept their shape well enough for what I needed. I think the trick is to bend them a little further than you need, and when dipping them in water, to cool them, hold the hose a little tighter than the tube holds it while pinching the other sides so it doesn't have a tendency to crush to get perfect bends. Well, that is what I did and I am satisfied with the results, it gave me a good looking formed hose without the cost of the braided ones, and if I need a new one down the road, I can easily make one for like $15 worth of stuff. The integrity of the hoses looks great, but I didn't test them in any way other than driving it around. I totally recommend this for vacuum line hoses, but I would want to test a little more before using this method for fuel injection or other higher pressure and higher risk applications.
  6. I'm going back to blocking off the front as suggested, and I'll check on the lip. I don't think there is one, but I'll look. I'll be out shooting all day. This retirement is wearing me out. 🙂
  7. That is correct. You also need to make special brackets to mount the top section. It is actually better to make a grill out ot the 280Z grill parts and the bars and top brackets from the 240Z. I extended the grills I made to fill the gap under the bumper. I am thinking about redoing mine after improving the design on the last two. If you go to page two in my thread, from post 28 onwards, you can see the alterations. You could also use the Skillard grill. I sent my brackets to a couple members so they could fit those grills. If anyone wants info in that, just send a pm. https://skillard.com/products/datsun-280z-front-grill-with-turn-signal-delete https://skillard.com/products/datsun-240z-front-grill
  8. You can remove the screw/bolt from the junction blocks of the hydraulic lines down on the fender well and frame rail. That will give you a lot more flex in the lines to the MC and let you leave everything connected. You might find fluid leaking from the back of the MC though once you get it apart. That's the common reason the booster fails. Don't let any fluid leak from the booster on to your paint. It will stain it, or worse.
  9. Do you have the stock drums on the back? Sounds like you need to adjust them. The shoes are too far from the drums. Take the drums off and turn the adjusting wheel that moves the shoes apart until you can barely get each drum back on. Then pull the parking brake handle up and down a few times to get the final automatic adjustment.
  10. I don't know the condition of Mathew's hood but the one with the bruised nose is the one Bruce's friend has, I believe
  11. This guy makes some good looking stuff, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240z260z280z-Left-Right-Outer-Bonnet-Hinge-Panels/293046290106
  12. And Ben has already made the correction. It's great that he's conscientious like that.
  13. Well my bodyshop is an excellent guy, but he surely takes his time to get all the details right. I love that, but i want my car back before i retire. That's why i always search for the best possible solution to make life as easy as possible for him. Lately i often saw those yellow panels from UK popping up on various sites. One of the "problematic" areas is stil the Rear lower valance. I got one from MSA so far and it's ok for most of the "american" restaurations i guess, but not for me... The main problem beeing that the Curvature from the original lower valance is missing. I thought i'd give it a try and got it today: I'm surprised about how different it is and how great it looks. Also got confirmed that it's the original sheet metal thickness as the cars came with. You can clearly see the "curvature" in this picture. The main difference aside from that is the "lip" at the bottom end (see first picture) and the more accurate shape at the exhaust area. Here's panel from MSA, see the differences? All a bout the details.. I really can recommand the yellow one above. They don't have a website but i often see these (and many other 240Z parts from them) pop up on ebay and various facebook pages. Price is also nice if you ask me 🙂
  14. Nothing big, but finally something car related again 🙂 I recently got contacted by a nice guy in Czechia who just made sets of OEM reproduction stickers for all those inspection and small supplier stickers which will need replacement when the car is done for the people who know. Got them today. From the first sight they seem pretty nice with those glossy finnish, etc. But will compare them at another point. Nevertheless. something to keep the project alive. Also bought some more stuff which should arrive here by next week or so.


  • Forum Statistics

    • Total Topics
      61,054
    • Total Posts
      576,492
  • Gallery Statistics

    • Images
      39,008
    • Comments
      14,362
    • Albums
      631

    Latest Image
    20190824_141551~2.jpg
    0
  • Blog Statistics

    • Total Blogs
      165
    • Total Entries
      249
  • Download Statistics

    • Files
      96
    • Comments
      15
    • Reviews
      5

    Latest File
    By CanTechZ

    1    0

  • Vehicles Statistics

    • Total Vehicles
      826
    • Submitters
      642
    • Total Images
      2,759
    • Comments
      28
    • Total Views
      702,779

    Rickks240
    Latest Vehicle
    Rickks240 By Rickks240
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.