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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/19/2019 in all areas

  1. Success! "Well there's your problem!" Looks like I was battling 48 years of rust. Lots of Kroll and I finally manned up with the MAP gas. I made a sleeve out of heavy wall PVC and used an impact wrench to try and pull the strut up the tube. Sort of working in the blind and the strut rod spun until it all tightened up but it worked. Now I have to figure out how to clean the tube, probably with a wire wheel and a drill extension. Thanks for all the suggestions and support.
  2. I remember a fellow who made a long rotary wire brush using a length of wire rope (cable) to clean the interior of a piece of tubing. He taped around the cable about 2" up from the end and frayed the cable end out to around 45`. He chucked the other end of the cable in his drill motor and scrubbed out the interior of the tube until it was shiny.
  3. I know this question is answered, but I just wanted to mention that it would not be necessary to remove the outer center metal finisher to run the wiring harness and install the grommet. With the license plate light removed it should be no problem. Cheers Mike
  4. Well thought out and executed resto-mods are bringing big money, no matter the manufacturer, this year at Barret Jackson.
  5. Short answer: Yes. It sounds like you haven't tried dismounting the light housing yet. When you do, things will be obvious. The wiring connectors are located on the outside of the body, behind the light housing. The wiring exits from the interior through a grommet-equipped hole (with grommet) just to the left of the body centreline. You'll need to remove both the metal centre finisher panel on the outside and the big plastic trim panel on the inside. You might also need to pull the weatherstripping free along the back sill. Be gentle and patient when you set about trying to remove the interior plastic trim panel. There are molded lips along the top and bottom edges that are typically brittle with age and really easy to break off if you don't finesse things. IIRC, you need to tug the top edge free first and tilt the top inward by an inch of so. Then you need to coax either the left or right end out the corner a bit so as to free things up. Then remove at a slight angle. The panel won't pull straight forward. It also doesn't like to bend very much. Picture below (a little fuzzy) shows the panel during installation rather than removal, but should give you the idea.
  6. Yes. It is PS30-00166 and sold for $170,500 including the buyers premium at Amelia Island in 2017. Today it sold for $90,000 with the 12% buyers premium. The pre auction estimate was $125,000 to $175,000, not including the buyers premium. https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/am17/auction/lots/r169-1970-nissan-fairlady-z-432 Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  7. Did that same car sell for $170,500 2 years ago?
  8. If it's the storm that blew through California in the last couple days, get the snow shovels out. It dropped over four feet of snow in the northern ski areas and a couple feet in the local southern mountain resorts. Good luck! Dennis
  9. We aren't expected to get a lot out of this coming storm in my neck of the woods. I'm at the warmer end of the state and last time I checked, most of it is supposed to be rain. North central portions of PA though up through New England.... Look out! The more uncomfortable part (for me anyway) is coming end of NEXT week. It's gonna be very cold for an extended portion of time. Check your antifreeze and put another log on the heat pump.
  10. Yeah, that was interesting, but that car wasn't just another run of the mill LS engine swap, someone built that car as a custom, it looked well planned. Nice to see that recognition.
  11. or you could just hang the shock from something, soak the shock with oil and then tap the strut
  12. I agree with you, Charles. I was also surprised with the amount the Modified LS car brought. Over the last couple of years, 240Zs are finally getting some respect at B.J.
  13. Those are serious prices and not early cars or even "Series 1" cars. I am a little surprised the LS car brought so much. In the past the strictly original has seemed to bring the premium.
  14. Thanks Kats. That's good news. This one wasn't perfect by any means but definitely a good value and starting point. Here is a Dino I took a picture of for you. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  15. Mike , you will have a good opportunity to buy a car like this . This Red 110 car appeared to be almost same condition as the Silver 1971 one which I was talking about in this thread. I think market price is getting back to the way it should be . Price is corresponding it’s condition . The silver one would have sold close to this , 80000 to 10000 USD in Japan . I would not be surprised if a perfect , non restored ( maybe restored ) clean HLS30 were sold more than this Z432 in an auction in the US . Kats
  16. Should have bought this one. Never thought it would go so cheap. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  17. Just heard from a buddy of mine who is already at the event above and he says the place is "crawling with Z cars". Leaving at 6:30 am to be there Sat and Sunday. Can't wait!
  18. The E-30 heads are 37cc Chambers compared to 39-41cc on the E-31 or E-88. I run 37cc chambers on my L24 , but it’s a e88 that has been shaved a bit ? I also have significant bore notching which lowers compression . That coupled with a 490/290 cam I have no issues with detonation with 93 octane. The L20 ran dished pistons with those tiny chambers
  19. I have the rollers and cups. Grind off the back of the shoulder rivet and press out the rivet. The press back in the rivet and put a small tack weld on it.
  20. I designed and printed replacements for the washers. Printed in TPU - oil, grease resistant & extremely flexible. it has a similar flexibility to rubber. Does not require the rollers to be removed will flex enough to get over.
  21. Forgot to mention that I will have both V8 cars at Cal Speedway this Saturday and Sunday. They are doing a big Datsun feature with vintage racing, autocross and car show. Here are the details; Hello Everyone, VARA and GroupZ are hosting a very special event paying tribute to the racing history of the legendary Z car January 19-20 2019 Auto Club Speedway Fontana Ca. This is your chance to see vintage Z cars in action and meet the drivers who race them, show off your Z, test your car and skills in AutoX, tour the race track in your car, reconnect with old friends and make new ones. Gate Fee will be $15 per person good for Sat and Sun Track Tours $20 each day Event Shirt $15 Dash Plaque /Event Poster $5 Car Show Entry to be eligible for Trophies $25 For a special weekend pass that includes all the above for $50 go to https://www.vararacing.com/california-speed-fest and mail in your registration or sign up through the link to Motorsportsreg on the VARA website. Note this offer is preregistration only so don't wait! If you want to see the most on track action, come out Saturday to witness all the VARA classes race and get yourself on the track with the lunch time track tours Sunday will be all about the Z with a special pre lunch tribute race, special lunch time track tour and after lunch car show and race award ceremony. The pits will be open to spectators and food trucks and Racing and Z car vendors will be on site as well A detailed weekend schedule will be available soon from VARA An AutoX will be available both days on site inside the Speedway hosted by Speed Ventures. to register go to: http://speedventures.com/events/eventdetail.aspx?id=758 For questions about the car show, contact ian@groupz.com Like ianz is offline Report Post

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