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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/30/2018 in all areas

  1. kats

    Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432

    Thanks Gavin & Blue , Looking at these cars, I found more beautiful and more rare car , more people want it , then need more money. The silver TOYOTA 2000 GT is a breath taking looks , I understand it costs 10 times more of Z432’s . Design, and quality of each parts , big difference between the two of them . However driving performance and feelings , Z432 is much better and more exciting than TOYOTA 2000 GT . S20 Engine was made by Prince engineers with totally new components while TOYOTA 3M was given a DOHC head by YAMAHA , joined with a regular M series SOHC engine block . One of the special feature of S20 is , the engine block has side bolts to secure the crankshaft cap , we think it is a racing featuring .Even superior to some Ferrari engines . But , looks comes first , other things next in generally speaking. Oh , my true dream car is this , Alfaromeo Tipo 33. Kats
  2. Av8ferg

    280z

    Welcome to forum. I don't think you'll get many smart arse comments on here and like was said earlier the people on the forum have a love for these cars and are motivated to help the community, so again welcome. I got on here about a year ago after buying a Z that I really had wanted for 20+ years. I asked plenty of stupid questions as I educated myself. Great people on this have guided me well on my path to restoring my car. My first question for you is, what motivated you to buy this car?..the answer will better lead people on here to what your original inspiration was. Capt Obvious had a great write up on the different paths people go with these cars when referring to a guy selling one in PA. I'll see if I can find it. Your intended usage will also be a driving factor. Daily Driver, Show Car, Weekender, Track Car and so on. You have a lot of work ahead of you, and it will require some endurance to see this through. Too many guys don't have the enduring motivation to see these project through properly. Recognize now that you are not Garage Monkey and will not be finished in 3 weeks or 3 months. These projects are sometimes a year or more into the making. I see your are already attacking the rust...the Achilles Heel of these cars. Another idea is to start a journal of your progress. I did this and its beneficial for several reasons. 1. After doing extensive research on topic but not being able act on it I was able to ensure I didn't have to do all the research again. E.g. What is a largest tire you can fit on a 280z and not rub the body without fender flares, and how will it impact steering and ride? I need tires but haven't bought them yet but I know when its time, exactly what I need because its in my journal. 2. It will help you troubleshoot your problems and finally recall things you have forgotten. My final piece of advice. Pictures pictures.....take more than you need before you disassemble something. Picture are free, so don't screw this up. Your memory will fail you I promise, especially if pulled a part off 3 months ago. Example, I dissembled my 77 fuel rail to clean it, and replace the rubber hose pieces. it sat for maybe 3 weeks apart and even with pictures I wasn't 100% confident I was putting it back together right. Without pics I would have been on this forum asking stupid questions again.
  3. Home Built by Jeff

    Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    It is 5mm MDF.
  4. Hi, that helps, I was able to open the pics. Cheers
  5. 240260280

    Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432

    You need a Ford GT40!!!
  6. Patcon

    Finally Got My Garage Mahal!!!

    That's a beautiful place. I love the landscaping around the house. Your shop is 2 1/2 times larger than mine! what I could hoard up in there! I would locate the compressor outside, but it needs to be protected from freezing. It makes it hard to start up and residual water can freeze in the lines. Distributed air is really nice. Also a lot of wall outlets 44" off the floor. That way there is counter height power everywhere. Good work benches a must. A metal topped bench is really nice. I agree on ventilation. I also want as much light as I can get. I want operating room bright. I would switch them on multiple switches so I can run what I want and get it brighter when needed. Enclosed storage is nice or even a dedicated parts room. You could make the ceiling of the parts room the mezzanine area like Jeff suggested. I can help you size the framing if you need help. I might want a partition to keep tractors, mowers and small engine tools separate from the shop area with separate access doors. Some 220v power for a good welder. Hot and cold water and a bathroom. I also have a stacked washer dryer in my shop bathroom. I wash grungy rags, drop clothes and shop towels in it
  7. Gav240z

    Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432

    Sadly it will probably be a better long term "investment" money wise... but I love the shape of the S30Z and Z432 is a dream car to own for me. :)
  8. w3wilkes

    mech fuel pump spacer

    I know this thread is old, but I was over on Z car Depot and they have spacers for $10 if anybody needs one. https://zcardepot.com/products/fuel-pump-spacer-plate-240z-260z?utm_source=beeketing&utm_medium=precommend&app=precommend#
  9. Marty Rogan

    Finally Got My Garage Mahal!!!

    Thanks Jeff, A work bench is definitely higher up on my priority list. My wife was suggesting that I buy a work bench. The ones I looked at seemed pretty sturdy, with steel bases and a 1 inch hardwood top, in either 6" or 8" sizes. However, they were only 24" wide. That seemed too narrow to me. How wide is your bench? I was thinking it may be a better idea to just build one. Then I could make it to any size I like. I was also thinking about making it slightly taller too, so I would not have to bend over to work on stuff. I really like the idea of a steel top and having it on casters. Having a lot of the shop be flexible in the configuration is really desirable. Putting the compressor outside in an insulated box makes a lot of sense. Why put up with all that noise if you don't have too. As a good friend of mine always says "The planning is 80% of the fun in a project". I plan to have a lot of fun this winter!
  10. Captain Obvious

    1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

    Get ready for a lot of words... Let me first explain why I'm looking for a new helmet in the first place. My current helmet (Horror Freight blue design) works pretty well with the MIG, but won't stay dark with the TIG. I'm assuming that the TIG currents are just too low and it won't pick up the arc. Either that, or I'm shadowing the sensor with my work position. In any event, it flashes me with the TIG. And just recently, I was doing some under-car exhaust work on the family Truckster, and my HF blue flashed me even with the MIG. Something about the working position again... Must have blocked the sensor or something. Once I finished the tack welds under the car, I pulled the parts out and finished the job on easels in the driveway and it was fine. Just something about the position under the car. So I've had it... I busted my balls on that car job and saved over a thousand bucks by throwing labor at it instead of new parts. With the money saved (think "unrealized expense"), I think I deserve a new tool so I can do a better job next time. I figure even if I spend a couple hundred of that saved thousand, I'm still way ahead in the end AND I've got a new helmet! Right? I deserve that, right? Who's with me?? Anyway, that's where I'm coming from. I wanted something more reliable with more sensors and rated for lower TIG current. So I did a bunch of investigation into helmets and came to multiple conclusions. First of which is that asking people what is the best helmet is like asking someone "What is the best brand of tools." and is likely to start a religious war. Beyond that, I did some reading of on-line reviews. Here's a couple examples: https://welderportal.com/ http://weldinghelmetexpert.com/ https://weldinghelmetpros.com/ And here's one that talks about the EU's relatively new rating system being used as an attempt to provide some objectivity to the highly subjective topic of viewing quality: https://www.thefabricator.com/article/safety/1-1-1-1-clarity All the top of the line helmets seem to be great. Optrel 684, Speedglas 9100, Miller Elite, Jackson BH3, Lincoln 3350. All fantastic, and even with the unrealized expense, they're still all more money than I can justify spending. However, there is also one lower priced contender that just kept popping up... The Antra AH6-260-0000. This one seems to be very highly rated despite the costs. It's seemed to be at the very top of everyone's "Best helmet for the money" category. So, I was just about ready to pull the trigger on the Antra AH6-260-0000 when I noticed that all the sensors are in a line across the top of the window. I can picture welding positions where all of these sensors get blocked. Might be very unlikely, but I think it's possible. In the end, I went with the Lincoln 2450, and here's why. It's got the same optical technology as the very highly rated 3540, but has a smaller viewing window, and hence a lower price tag. But the biggest reason I went with the Lincoln over the Antra is that it has four sensors as well, but they are in the four corners of the lens. I cannot come up with an easy way to shadow all of them at once. And it's TIG rated down to 2A or so. I went with the cheapest "Name brand" helmet I could find with four sensors in the corners of the lens. If you think the four sensors in a line aren't an issue, then the Antra sounds like a great alternative for a lot less money. Keep in mind that I'm no welder. I know just enough to make myself dangerous. And light stuff on fire.
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