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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/06/2018 in all areas

  1. Jeff, I've really enjoyed watching your Datsun build. As you said there's some controversy around the mirrors. They do look COOL. I considered them way back when, but ended up just going with the stock mirror on the drivers door. A few reasons I ended up on the door... They will be in the way when working under the bonnet (hood) Adjusting the mirrors seems like a pain getting in and out of the car to make adjustments or else it will be a 2 person job. Hopefully you and Mrs Jeff use the same mirror position. (picture your complaint about the side of the car the bonnet kick stand is on) If the glass in the mirrors is flat it seems that with the mirrors that far away from the driver the field of view will make them not very effective. They do look cool, but I don't think you'll see the mirrors on the fenders (guards) on the race cars.
  2. We call those bushings, or bushes. Here is a web site that will have the part numbers. You can search the part number on the internet and find many places that might have them. You'll have to remove the spindle pin to get the control arm (transverse link) removed in order to replace them. It can be difficult. Wilkommen to the site. Forgot to say that the part you're pointing at is just an outer flange of the main bushing. There's a steel shell around a cylindrical bushing assembly that is pressed in to the control arm. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle
  3. Not sure why you've had problems, 'breaking these when I close the hatch'. Maybe you can explain where the problem is occurring. Pix #1-3, below, were posted by another CZCC member (sorry, no name to credit) and show the OE-style, 3-piece outer seal. It uses a bulb-type seal across the top and around the upper corners. After that, the bottom pieces on the left and right are -- as Jim says -- really just water gutters, rather than seals. The aftermarket, one-piece seal uses a bulb design along its entire length In my experience, the top piece was difficult to install properly with the hatch in place. Also, the metal lip on which this seal mounts isn't that deep, so you shouldn't really rely on just a mechanical fit to hold the seal in place. Some judicious use of weatherstrip cement is called for here (see photo #4). If you've just been pushing the seal into place and hoping for the best, that may be the source of your problems.
  4. I'm another fan of the flat tops, have been for years. Hi Jay, we have conversed on these a good few years ago. I never got round to using the flat tops, I sold the project Z I was going to use... These carbs are well designed, as is the airbox that goes with it. Can't be that hard to use, its only fuel and air! (though the key is careful set-up/adjustment). I may have an odd NOS for the "1974" version (as this version went on to 1978)..... and found an SU replacement needle part number... Will be interested how you get on.
  5. Installed 4 post lift to get garage ready for my next Z project
  6. Was that your first Z, in 2006? If so it really did change your life, and ours, for the better. I think I would have thrown in the towel were it not for your help and encouragement. You are what got me hooked on 240s too. That red one you did back around 2011. So then I went and bought two! Now I'd have to get a second mortgage to do that. They've really taken off these last 5 years.
  7. Clear turnsignal lenses mounted. Think I like it...

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