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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/17/2018 in all areas

  1. I'll drop my asking price by the cost of the truck transport. Now THAT's determination.
  2. The Art of the Z -- running down Godzilla, no less!
  3. I cut about 1/4" wide strip of some very thin copper sheet, used about 3/4" piece to form a collar then looped it around and adjusted to make the correct diameter hoop. reverse bend after inserting thru the collar, and soldered it up. I did have to dig out a very small section of the foam maybe 1/16" about 3/8 long to allow the collar to fit nicely.
  4. He would have left the dust and grime on it, but he must have read somewhere that 240Z prices are going up. He must owe quite a bit to his crack dealer, too.
  5. Yes it makes sense. It sounds a lot like to detents are reversed or a lot of free play on the rear hub or maybe a loose retainer plate on the adapter plate. Al (Cal Dat llc) has a bit of a reputation for hit and miss rebuilds. He gets quite a bit of attention from his customers on the forums. Did your second mechanic strip it down completely or just open the casing and found a couple of issues, fixed them and put it back together? In your last post you mention "feeling the gears meshing", but most of what you are feeling is the selector ball checks clicking into place and the inserts in the synchronizer hub clicking into the coupling sleeve. Could he have forgotten the springs behind the inserts? If you are not feeling that, I would remove the the two side ball check caps and check if the lower spring has colapsed or something like that. All the springs are the same length, but the top cap for 1st & 2nd is longer. You can get to these fairly easy by climbing under the car.
  6. http://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4432194
  7. I would still run the 81 stuff for the time being. You will learn a lot. Then upgrade later.
  8. I prefer the Tapatalk app. It allows you to access other forums as well as the Classic Z Car forum easily. It is well supported and gets regular updates and is free. It also eliminates the signatures on the bottom of the posts to reduce clutter. Plus I never saw the ads covering the posts in Tapatalk.
  9. Oh, I'm sorry. I made it sound easy? I guess that comes with over-simplification. You'll find out.
  10. Straight copy from the other site - Hey, thanks for taking the time to reply I'd like to add, just before I get into this, I think what you're doing is great and I wish you the best of luck raising funds for your classic-car salon in Novemeber. I also really like your sticker. Cheers, I hope nothing I say offends you. I'm not an artist, I've never tried creating badges and I've never been informed of any prices that are faced when creating badges. I do know what I like though, and I'm definitely not afraid of giving out my opinion to those who don't want it Those badges look really good, and I can definitely see that you are drawing some inspiration from them. I guess the biggest difference is how clear, and simple they are. There's no overlapping of the more complex shapes, and even though the Anniversary is small it's clearly legible. My favourites are definitely the bottom two. I agree, clear and distinct colours should be used, that's why I chose the blue and red for my crude example, any car guy is going to look at the blue/red and think Datsun, very distinct. Was there any reason to go the white background over, let's say, a black one? As much as this badge should stand out from the others on the vehicle, I believe it should be at least similar to the factory ones. I think the obvious next step to take would be clear, legible text. The badges that you took inspiration from have very clear, legible text. Even the small Anniversary text is quite easy to read and I think it's because of how Nissan has placed it on very simple backgrounds (i.e. the text is on a solid background, with no overlapping, or the text is on a simple square-ish ribbon with a uniform background colour of gold). When I look at your badge, I can hardly read the Anniversary text and because there is so much text, it's simply not as clear as the badges you took inspiration from, it looks a bit crammed. I think my crude example also fails to make the Anniversary text clear and legible. Uh, what size are you referring to? My crude example is just a 20 minute gimp2 image that was 1024px x 1024px in size that has been resized to 256px x 256px to save my internetsss. It has no dimensions stated, or otherwise implied. I'm sorry if this wasn't clear. It was just a mock-up of what I imagine the badge being. I agree, K.I.S.S (keep it simple, stupid. Thanks to my primary school teachers), but I do not agree that because my crude example has 2 more colours than yours, it loses it's impact. From a distance the crude example would be more identifiable than your badge, simply because of those red/blue colours I have used, whereas for both, the text becomes very hard to read at any sort of distance, especially the very close together Anniversary text. I agree, shade would be a huge factor but shade doesn't just effect mine... Your badge has super dark colours for the text, that is small and very close together, as soon as any shade hit's the badge, it's not going to be legible... So I guess if we combine both of our ideas together, whilst in the shade, we may get that our combined badge is blue and red with a gold 50, haha. I have no idea on pricing, so thanks for letting me know that there maybe/is limits to the amount of colours basic prices may include. The keyword Datsun definitely does, when you go up close enough to read it. Whereas the Blue/Red (symbolic Datsun colours that any car guy knows) could be seen from a lot further away than your badge could be read, which seems to fall into one of your points earlier on about a badge losing it's impact. If I saw my crude example without the Z, I agree I would not be able to tell which Datsun it's for, but if we removed 240z from yours, which Datsun is yours from? Isn't that why we put those on there??? I guess you're right about the badge being anything (if the person does not make the reference to Datsun from the colours), you must think the same thing about the 280zx anniversary sticker, or your badge if the person doesn't know what a Datsun is. If I saw a badge on a car I would think 'hey, that has something to do with that car. It says 50th Anniversary. Oh! It must be something to do with the 50th Anniversary of this car.' but that could just be me. It's the internet, if you get offended on it then you're using it wrong! I'll agree to disagree with that, I agree that you've put a lot of effort into this, but I don't agree that it's the best choice. (ex. the Anniversary lettering in the badge compared to the sticker is on the verge of not being able to be read and the whole design seems squished and doesn't seem to have any similarities with any of the other, factory, badges on the car). Awesome! I hope the car salon goes well and i think it's great what you're doing, I wish you the best of luck.
  11. Try using Tapatalk. It works extremely well.
  12. This is exactly why I am part of the Z community.Determination is shown from all corners.
  13. Okay - so the issue for my set up was that the center line of the support bars was not raised high enough . Basically I threaded my adjustment bolts almost all the way up and the car became more neutral the higher I went( see pic above). Now it’s easy to spin with one hand . I’ve even scratched the winch idea since now Ive used a engine stand head on one side with a locking pin . Now to actually get some work done.
  14. I just did the very same thing plus a new caliper from ORielly's. Just bend them carefully and they work perfect. I'm no longer embarrassed when someone admiring the car hears a squeal when I stop.
  15. Figured I should probably add a photo of her. Runs and drives all original, engine, transmission, etc... Her paint makes her look rougher than she actually is. Someone before us installed house carpet so that will be the first we pull out of it.
  16. You really just need the engine harness itself. I usually keep the EFI Relay and Fuel Pump Relay intact (simpler than the 280Z circuitry) and sometimes use the 280ZX fusable links (that have to do with the ECCS and injector power). There is a small harness on the 280ZX that comes from under the dash, up the driver fender, to the coil and ignitor that I find useful but it's not completely necessary. There are several other wires in that harness that have nothing to do with the coil/ignitor so I strip them out if I use it. (No point really - most of the wiring you need for the turbo coil/ignitor - and your Tach - is already there on the stock 280Z. You just need to add one wire from the ECU to the Ignitor to make the whole thing work.) If you're going to use the stock harness: Get yourself some DeOxIt (made by Caig) and AFTER you clean each electrical connector on the harness, engine, ECU, AFM, sensors, (well, you get the idea - EVERYTHING!) use DeOxIt on the connections before you put them together! There are specialty tools made to clean the oxide and corrosion off the brass connectors. I would say that over 90% of the problems people generally have with these early EFI / ECCS engines are electrical - most having to do with wiring and connectors. These old harnesses were never weatherproofed (and never meant to last this long). EFI/ECCS is dependant on reliable signals from sensors to function properly. Oxidation of the wire and connectors creates increased resistance which skews the signal from the sensors. Eliminate as much of that as you can. In reality, most of us have had to abandon the stock harness. After months of troubleshooting, my stock harness worked pretty well and I drove my turbo-swapped 260Z for years with it. When I went to a different ECU and built a new harness, I came to the conclusion that I should have done that in the first place. Live and learn as they say...
  17. I ended up selling my completely rebuilt (by Eiji at Datsun Spirit) "NISMO" 44s also known as the Type 4. I instantly regretted it, and two weeks later bought these Type 3 Datsun Competition versions.
  18. Since the dash was changed there were several questionable things done to the wiring from the dash to other components. The tach was wired with new wire to the coil, but it didn't work. Well, it pegged out when you turn the power on. They scavenged a tach harness plug (likely from the original dash! Bastards!) and used it to wire the tach "their way" to the coil. I was able to re-attach the tack to the stock dash harness plug. Several other combo switch and area wires were left dangling open, with duct tape lovingly wrapped around each one "just in case". Flashers, washer pump, and one of the brake switch wires was cut clean off. Others had wire spliced into them mid run. The turn signal switch had a new connector spliced on. Need I say that all splices were merely twisted and wrapped with electrical tape? I have that all opened up and under repair.
  19. Ok, I give up. A guy can only take so much. I've heard everything from "too many changes, what if something goes wrong" to "there is too much undercoating and sound deadening, so I can't tell what rust might be hiding" and everything in between. So, I'm keeping it. None of you get to experience its greatness. In fact I'm going to drive my overly complicated, too modified rust bucket like I've never driven it before on this last nice day of Fall. I may even get some winter tires and alternate between the 510 and the Z all damn winter. Because I can. Bitter? yeah, slightly. I'll get over it.
  20. I do now believe it is vapor lock due to the elevation and recent temps in the high seventies. I triple wrapped my factory fuel rail with Thermo-Tec this morning and switched spark plugs to match my E12-80 dizzy. My recent plugs were a perfect brown shade. I was very happy with their appearance. I decided to take her up Pikes Peak last week. What a blast. The 15,000+ foot summit was closed due to weather, but I made it up to around 13,500 feet. I hope you enjoy the photos. I am very excited to be getting a baseline dyno tune for my engine this week. $80 for three runs. My plan is go with run 1 as-is. On run 2 I'd like to crank up the timing and see the results. And following that I'm considering turning the mixture nuts an extra 1/2 to 1 full turn richer for the 3rd run to see if she wants more fuel. Thoughts?

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