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  2. Haven't asked but we can assume that the ZCD sender was designed to work with the original bulb since it's intended to replace the original sending unit. Remember, according to ZCD their unit has worked well (to their knowledge) and nobody else on this forum has joined this discussion asserting they've had the same issue. Maybe it's a small batch of senders with an incorrect thermistor, or maybe it's my bad luck that I received 2 units with the same malfunction. I will contact them once again when we reach our conclusions with information that should be beneficial for their product development. After all, the intention is to help companies like ZCD in their mission to provide Z owners with high quality spare parts when needed. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  3. Anyone ask what bulb zcd used to make it work? I would assume that they tested this out before selling right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I think it might be an intentional cut to allow a bend. Looks like somebody bent the tip to get more travel.
  5. Odd to see a crack that way. The force is applied from the other side unless the lever was somehow install to the other side of the camshaft eccentric
  6. This is a 'Denki I refurbished, no such cracks or cuts.
  7. Today
  8. Is it available in the States?
  9. Mike W

    led bulbs

    The BA9 example I used was just an example of the ones that are not sensitive to polarity so I'm not sure if these are the brightest ones you can get. When I did my interior gauges I did a lot of experimentation on bulb color, and ended up trying quite a few different options. One thing to consider is the possibility of removing the green plastic filters inside of the gauges. With the filters still installed, you will be limited to the size of the bulb you can use as the filter will restrict the bulb length. I tried both green and white bulbs with and without the filters and in the end I removed the filters and just went with white bulbs. The really light up the gauges and for the first time I can actually see how fast I am going at night! Many people like the green glow and so you can achieve that by either leaving the green filters in place or by going with a green LED bulb. I believe that I have a spread sheet of all the bulbs that I used, both inside and out, and if I can find that I will be happy to post it. Finally, the bulbs can be dimmed but you will need to change the rheostat dimmer to a PWM type dimmer in order to dim the LED bulbs. I chose to use the original dimmer and I just keep them at the highest brightness level. Hope that helps. Mike.
  10. Hi @Captain Obvious my greatest strength/asset is willing to try anything. I observe. When I set my mind to do something, I’m over obsess and it drives me my t sometime. If I can watch people doing things, I can pickup a lot of stuff. If I see people do things, even though I’m not 100% sure of it, I’d try it anyway. Did you know that never in my life welding? Because of this car, now I know the basic of MIG welding. It’s ugly and I have to put extra work on the grind it down afterward. But I know something now and not afraid of it. Oh, and I ran 220v for the welder too. Who would have though connect two wires in the Main panel of 110v to create 220v??? Call the electrician to drill a hole from out side to inside the garage probably 2 feet cost $400 labor or so only. No parts. Too much money for me as I need cash for the car. Watch YouTube for hours and went to homedepot got the circuit breaker and subpanel... rest is history. I live by the motto, “ask, and you shall get answer” don’t be afraid of the question. If/when you don’t know, you don’t know. Simple as that. well, the clock, she holds well. I’ll leave it connected to the battery overnight and she is ticking every 5 seconds or so. Yippee 😉 Will keep her connected for another 12 hr or so and she will be polish and go in. Do you happen to know the values of those resister and the diode? There is no number on the diode. Resister usually have color coded, but this one looks weird thank you all for the help and guidance
  11. Perfect, thank you. Just visited Klassic Fab, they have the sills.
  12. As Dutchzcarguy mentioned, the 'Body' chapter of the FSM contains sectional drawings for most of the Z's key sheet metal assemblies. Here's the one for the rocker/floor assembly:
  13. Another build thread: Disepzeon (or something like that). He fabricated his own replacement panels. Great workmanship.
  14. Embarrassingly... No. I have spring perches which have been removed from a pair of scrap front strut tubes, but I never procured a set of front struts on which to transplant the donor perches. I'm not confident in the success of this project to just go ahead and modify the struts that are currently on my car. I want another spare set to cut up. In any event, here's where I am now: I have recently started a couple different avenues to get my hands on a pair of front struts to finish this project, but haven't had anything delivered yet. And no... I didn't start trying again because you prompted me. I really did start a couple weeks ago. So, is anyone parting out a 260 or 280 that has a pair of front struts available?
  15. Awesome brother! Exactly what I was looking for, and more!
  16. A little off-topic, but your experience with height gain reminds me of the very first column that Peter Egan wrote for Road & Track magazine about 20 years ago... or maybe it was 30 years ago (time flies). In it, he describes his very first efforts as a teenager to get into the local racing scene ('jalopy racing' on a local 1/2-mile dirt track). For that purpose, he and his buddy secured a mid-1950's Buick sedan from the local wrecking yard. Reasoning (like Colin Chapman) that 'adding lightness' would improve not just acceleration, but also cornering and braking, they set about removing all of the Buick's unnecessary bodywork -- including the (massive) front and rear bumpers and the also-massive chrome front grill. They were dismayed to find that the result was a car with about 1 foot of ground clearance and a center of gravity that was probably 30 inches above the ground. Great read if you an find it online.
  17. Can someone explain the real world difference in engine operation using the different heat range spark plugs. How and when would you know which heat range your particular engine is wanting?
  18. I was following WHeee, but I didnt see where he had massive sill problems. I searched last night, didnt see much there, maybe the third bourbon was kicking in. I just got Charlies floor pans and rails from Canada. But as I started to asses my plan of attack, I started digging on the sills and it would seem silly not to replace those as well. I check out the other guys threads, thank you! David.
  19. You should consider the paint work first. Prepping the car for paint should uncover any prior body damage. At that time, you can assess whether the car is worthy of your investment of time and money. If you decide the car is worth the investment, complete the paint work then move on to the interior. Are you planning to change the exterior color? If so, then a thorough repaint requires doors, hood, hatch and engine removal. Good luck (and add photos to your postings to let us know how the project progresses). Keith
  20. That capacitor is just used as a filter for a local derived power supply to drive the clock. The diode and resistor are a simple voltage regulator to knock the battery voltage down to a lower level. And the cap is there to make sure the clock circuitry has a nice clean voltage from which to operate. It would be very unlikely for it to affect the operation of the clock, especially on the bench. Enjoy the extra horsepower. Haha! You talk like you don't know what you're doing most of the time, but I think, in reality you got skills. Well done!
  21. You can get what you need from this Florida-based supplier: KlassicFab Vintage JDM https://kfvintagejdm.com/product-category/datsun/ KFV are relatively new to the Datsun Z market (since 2019?), but well-known for their line of replacement panels for VW Kombi buses. The traditional supplier of replacement outer-body panels is Tabco. Based on reports from others, Tabco's panels offer a fit that is just 'ok'. Tabco doesn't offer the inner rocker -- just the outer. If you use the 'search' function, you'll find some excellent threads within this website that illustrate the repair of this area in detail (lots of photos and lots of great pointers). Members whose build threads come to mind include: wheee, convertt, grannyknot, eurodat and patcon.
  22. Car is on a rotisserie completely disassembled. I understand how its put together, I was just asking if someone knew of a place who makes aftermarket parts for this area. Thanks.
  23. What were the specs on your variable resistor?
  24. The inner and outer is reinforced with a standing part in the middle.. but you would/should have known this if you had the service manual (I don't start a car repair without one!) you can google for parts they are available for as far i know. Also look with a camera (on your phone a sheap extra) IN the beam.. most are rusted out inside and posible you have to replace the whole beam..
  25. Hello all, I took a stab at a seized quartz clock. disclaimer: my first rebuild clock ever. Follow at your own risks. tools: - plier, smallest possible - white towers, a few sheets - q-tips, a handful - plastic toothpick with floss string. Put one in your mouth right now. You’ll need it later - screw driver - wire cutter - rubbing alcohol - 3 credit cards or o’reilly reward card - soldering iron - 5m wrench - punch tool for resizing your 18th birthday that your rich grand daddy gave you. It will be come useful later unscrew to get the main housing out. Push the black and blue wires in to make room. Use a bit of force to pry out as there is a rubber seal and stick firm together as it is 40+ years. Once remove, you’ll see black and blue wires soldered to the pin. Unsolder then and remove excessive soldering. Use 5mm wrench to remove 2 nuts and gently pull the white housing of the clock out. Take pictures, observe everything. Handle with care and wear gloves just coincident, I’m out of gloves 😉 unsolder the 2 pins that hold the coil and the circuit board should be remove easily. Set it aside. Observe and take pictures. Unscrew the 3 screw and a gear might fly off. Remember to take picture. remember the toothpick in your mouth? It is now come in handy. Bite down on it to control your strength and give you focus. You’ll have to remove the hour and minute hands to get the remaining gears out. Remove the clock hands is not the same as remove the spindle pins on the rear suspension. Don’t go to town with it. Use the punch that use to resize your 18th birthday Rolex. Make sure the pin SMALLER than the hole otherwise you’ll damage the hole. See photo. Bite down the toothpick and give it a gent tab. Hold the clock on the side, not the face. the minute hand should pop out. If the punch key is too short, get a smallest cotter pin or similar and try to push it out. the hour hand is a bit tricky as you have to pull it out from the clock face. Get 3 credit cards or the like. Stack up and use a flat screw driver to pry it out. Be gentle don’t bend or scratch the paint. It’s going to be tough to touch up 😉 after that, remove the 3 screws from the body and remaining gears should fall out. Again, be-sure to take photos along the way. You’ll need it to put back together. use denatured alcohol to clean gears. Use q tip and toothpick for the gear teeth. once done, reverse the order. one thing I made a mistake and gave me a hell of a time to put back in. I think it will be easier to put all the gears back in first before putting the hour and minutes. I fiddled awhile to align the hands. I think it should be 12 o’clock for ease of adjustment. I think at least I misalign a tooth or 2 as it is true 12. while I was at it, I replace the capacitor with same value. The new one is smaller physically than the original one. The Z need or the weight los possible. Perhaps even give it a boost in power due to the lighter clock. thats how I did it. I don’t know if it is the right way to do it. It seem to work and will let it run over night to see what happen. I do not have the equipment to see if replaced the capacitor make any difference. regards -
  26. Ah you mean the splash pan ? M5 could be yes. I thought you meant the radiator
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