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  1. Today
  2. My car just started something weird. My headlights won't work unless the wipers are switched on. The parking light setting on the switch will work. I took the switch apart and gave it a cleaning but nothing changed. Has anyone else experienced this?
  3. I noticed it idled more smoothly at the base (5000 feet). I have mine set pretty lean at sea level (using the AFM bypass for idle mix). Maybe at 5000 it was running richer (smoother). I have not been able to find out any info on the effects of operating above 12000. I still don't know if it died rich/lean, it did NOT forward fire (pop thru the AFM, lean) or backfire (thru the muffler, rich). It would just die like it was getting no fuel at all. Like it was running on the start fuel pump run. I thought the AFM was maybe not turning on the pump. If I had a flat pull off I would have messed with the AFM (pulled the filter to AFM boot and get to the flap with fingers.
  4. Thanks Dave. I was just thinking about your car probably not having altitude compensation, same as my car. Perhaps our cars need it to operate efficiently over a wide range of altitudes. My first thought about how to see if there was validity to my thought was that maybe it would show up as a noteworthy gas mileage change over a range of altitudes.
  5. I really don't know was not paying much attention. I just filled up anytime I got near about 1/3. I can prob get a gross estimate from my visa car bills. If I can do that I will post back. I did use ethanol free when I could get it, but most of the time it was better grades of gas, not that the car needed high octane, I just got it cause I figured it may have less ethanol. I never noticed any difference in the way the car drove.
  6. Dave, what kind of gas mileage did you get? Did it vary much between your driving through the Southeast and your driving along the front range of the Rockies? Just curious.
  7. really just wanted to get away from work/phones/email, getting old figured got to get this done sooner that later. Always wanted to do a road trip, and figured it would be a good test of the Datsun to see if I have it in good running condition. 800+ miles per day seemed like a good test. I like old cars that I can understand and are easy to fix, and I don't feel the need for all the modern stuff that new cars have, so less to worry about going wrong on a long trip.
  8. It has about 18 miles on it at this point. Tomorrow after work I'm going to recheck valve lash. Will I need to check valve lash more frequently until it has a few hundred more miles on it, or will I be okay to resume normal check/adjustment intervals after I check and reset tomorrow? Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk
  9. Thanks for the Travelog @Dave WM - Hats Off to you for venturing out on the journey! Now I'm wondering what inspired the trip to begin with? Carl B.
  10. Awesome! Glad it's running well. I'm a long way behind you, but I hope mine turns out as well!
  11. Yeah, I could just use the drill press, but the lathe would be more accurate. On the lathe I can index the part to be spot on and it also doesn't mind the interrupted cut so much if you cut through the wall into the center hole. I can also size the hole so the bushing is a slight press fit into the hole. I'm not quantized to drill bit sizes. And that's a great piece of warning about the bushings being thinner than the gear. What I can do on the lathe is mount the gear back side out and bore from that side. I can control the depth of the bore so it doesn't go all the way through the gear. That way I can leave a shoulder in there to keep the bushing from possibly walking out. Easy peasy, but I didn't know that until you brought it up! For fuel delivery, at this current point the plan is to redress it back up with the stock fuel injection. I suspect I'll have to tune the system a little, but I'm hoping that will work. I've heard that the stock system doesn't adapt well to modifications, and I guess I'll be able to confirm or deny that accusation. That's the current plan. If that fails, I'll throw on a pair of flat top carbs or maybe an aftermarket EFI system. Your 9.5 compression ratio sounds pretty much in line with my calculations. I came up with about 9.3 at .040 off. Thanks so much for the info, I appreciate the details!
  12. Thanks much. There's lots of other stuff I need, but it's not the kind of things I can lean on vou for. Bigger stuff like gasket set, rings, head bolts... You have a pair of piston ring pliers or a ring gap grinder? I don't have that stuff and I'll probably only ever use them this once. And I'd love to fight over another lunch bill. My house is your house!
  13. I have been off the site for a little while as I could tell I needed more information. All of the Z's were driven into the wharehouse and were in good running condition. Unfortunately they have not been turned over in years. I had a Z mechanic look at the vehicles and he advised based on what he can tell it will not take a lot for the engines to run. For those that will be at the SEMA Conference in Vegas I will be there from 11/3-11/8 and the cars are in the Las Vegas area and would be willing to show the vehicles for serious buyers. Thank you for all of your advice and suggestions.
  14. I removed the fuel lines when I dropped the tank to remove the bumper mounts, but of course, they were old, brittle and ready to be replaced.
  15. Thanks for the information, this helps. I will try to attempt this next weekend.
  16. That's a good machine, I looked into that size of generator as back up for when the power goes down, I went with a less expensive used generator instead. That unit gets good reviews.
  17. If you can get someone to give hand there is enough slack in the hoses to drop the tank about 6" and move it to the D/S so you can get socket wrench up there to remove the 3 bolts holding it to the frame. You may have to loosen the wire clamp holding the fuel neck to the tank so make sure the tank is fairly empty if possible.
  18. I'm in the process of removing the bumpers on my 260z, and removed the drivers side shock (had to drop the exhaust). Now I understand that you need to drop the fuel tank to remove the passenger side shock, but do you also need to disconnect all the fuel lines? I tried searching for this, but only mentions dropping the tank. I don't really want to mess around with the fuel system, but will have to if I don't have a choice. Thanks!
  19. Yesterday
  20. 8.5HP OHV Subaru Engine with Mikuni carb! It was attached to a Baldor Generator (Made in USA). Cool Japanese metal gas tank on top too! Making progress on a new garage in the sticks with no power. Now have some power!
  21. Glad to help! I'll send it out tomorrow. Anything else you need? I'll try to get over the next time I'm in NJ so we can fight over a lunch bill for re-payment. I certainly miss Doyle's Town.
  22. That now makes sense! Great detective work! Of course it it always the fine print that gets you. 🙂
  23. I like the look of unpainted wire hold downs. So I will probably peel all the rubber off, paint and then get the new rubber from 240zrubberparts
  24. Look at this way: the hold downs were already welded into place when the car was painted at the factory so they got sprayed body color. Yes, there might be some cracks in your fresh paint when you bend them but that would also have been the case at the factory. As to the media blast you might wrap them well with tape to protect the coating, then unwrap for painting.
  25. Last day of summer! Had to get the Z out...!
  26. https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/6644319 sold by @nix240z
  27. All the amazing restorations on this site gave me the bug to make mine "like new" again. The various posts have given me a lot of good information but I still have several questions- most are probably rookie/stupid questions! I have the car down to the shell and I'm getting things prepped to go to the body shop for some rust work and new 918 orange paint. My question of the day is about the various rubber coated wire hold downs. Do these just get painted and then bent around the harness post paint? Will this cause the paint to crack? When they media blast the car will the rubber tab covers get destroyed? Thanks!
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