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  1. Today
  2. If you’re OK with non-OEM fasteners, I’ve found every type of metric fastener I’ve ever needed for my Z at Ace hardware. Guarantee they’ll have the M5 and M6 hardware you pictured. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Putting my "72" back together after a very long slumber and need 3 screws/bolts. 1 - Headlight bucket screw M5 x 0.8 x 15mm of thread length 2 - Arm Rest M6 x 1.0 x 20mm of thread (back of bolt head to end of thread not including locating nub at end) with lock washer 3 - Grab handle M6 x 1.0 x 15mm of thread with lock and captive washers The grab handle and arm rest bolts are philips with a hex head. Any help with these would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Steve
  4. Yesterday
  5. Worked on the replaced sill area today. Added a plate to further remove the studs from any possible damp/water contact. Spliced in stud sections. Added a 2x6 header(support?) above the Southeast door - there are 3 plates there (see left of pic for reference ) - I figure this should help stiffen it up a bit. I'll jack the center a hair before I tie it to the plate sandwich Added some cross braces to stiffen up the wall after the corner post for the existing top plate..... ......and the new header post were in place. Have to add splints(?) to the repaired studs Next I need to clear this out so I can get the Z inside while we are out of the country for a week Feeling better now it's going back together. I can't work on the cars until my stuff is out of the way & back where I can find things as needed
  6. 240sx rear calipers work with the bracket from ZCD. Have to go back and look but I matched them up with 300zx rotors
  7. Time Left: 14 days and 15 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    PRICE REDUCED BY $3,000. The 2.8L six-cylinder engine is mated to a 5-speed manual transmission. The engine starts and runs excellent. Overall, the car is mechanically sound and drives well with plenty of power in the motor. Options include power windows, power steering, power brakes, cruise control, moon roof. Black paint, tan interior with tan leather seats. The passenger seat and back seats are in good condition. The driver’s seat needs to be reupholstered. The AC was upgraded to 134A Freon and is automatic, but the air compressor leaks and needs repair or replacing. The most recent repairs include replacement of gas injector multipack system and fuel filter. The radio and tape deck are original and work. The dash has the typical cracking as is common in these cars. The car has a front bra that goes with the car. Mileage: 135,767. If you are out of the area, fly down and drive the car home. Now asking $16,900.

    $16,900

    Oro Valley, Arizona - US

  8. I can help with the location of the 3 little loops in Steve's kit. and the "other" little horseshoe bumper (pic #1). I looked through the collection and found them. As to install, just "slip them on" as they say. With tweezers, high mag reading glasses, swearing, beer/whiskey etc
  9. It would be interesting to see some posts or a thread about restoring the latch mechanism including the rubber bits and how they install Also that link doesn't take me Mark's relevant post but to the first page of his build thread Nevermind, depending on where you select changes where you end up
  10. I'm also testing a few "new to me" different weather-strip replacements and hope to report on what's working best. I'm actually sad this car has the latch bumpers in place, will make it hard to test. I typically don't use the Precision door seals or even Vintage Rubber, but use the often mentioned 1120A822 weatherstrip from McMaster Carr. I buy it by the 100 ft roll and dole it out 22 feet at a time (131.25 inches each). Just slapped some on this 1/71 I'm building before it goes to it's new home. 98-99 Kia Sportage seals are also popular. 0K01858760B I wonder if Kia ever recovered from the glut of buying that happened a few years back.
  11. Today, for the very first time, I have, in my hands (well, attached to a z) a latch set, left and right that STILL have BOTH of the rubber coverings on the lock rotating part that touches the striker first! The passenger door (first couple of pics) shows that the rubber is worn through where it touches the striker, but its still hanging on for dear life. The drivers miraculously, has none of this wear. No clue how that has happened, but there it is. This is car is 1/71 VIN 18xxx with 80k miles on it. Arizona all of its life, but brought to Canada 20ish years ago and stored indoors since. As you can imagine, I have a "few" latch sets in my inventory, and absolutely NONE of them have any remnant of these rubber parts. Just had to share.
  12. I wanted to put in one place, a reference topic to those who are struggling with slamming doors with new rubber weather-strip, whatever your source for that material. Mark Tanker, @wheee! here, posted an excellent few posts in his build thread that showed how to simply create the often missing rubber parts in our 70-76 door latches that will quickly solve the slamming. Find it here. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=294#elControls_656753_menu Steve Nixon (hope I spelled that right) has a commercial product that reproduces ALL of the 5 rubber parts that are in a latch mechanism. https://www.240zrubberparts.com/product-page/240z-lock-mechanism-set
  13. I actually contacted a couple of other people. Got my question answered. Wildwood micro kit on TTT and silvermine will work in the front and rear but the rear e-brake cable hits the wheels and requires a spacer or no e-brake) The guy I talked to has a 12mm spacer not sure if anything smaller will work to clear the cable. The S12+8 front brakes (stage 3 on silvermine) fit and require only a 2mm spacer or 2mm to be shaved but someone else got away without shaving so it's 50/50 direct fit. And the rear disc brake conversion from Z car depot or the stage 4 rear brakes from silvermine will work with no spacer. Writing this Incase anyone needs an answer.
  14. So yesterday I was home early and Shelley ran me off to the shop to make some progress. So I worked on the drivers axle some more... Here is the end of the axle. Very tapered and no burrs. So I unbolted the top of the strut and layed it down out of the way. I put the adapter plate on and beat on it some to dome the grease cap out some to give me a little more room I put a some grease on the snap ring in the differential and tried to work it around some. The I took the 3# dead blow hammer and I got it to seat. The bolts that go in from the stub axle side just barely fit I got it all in and aligned. I does sort of bind at full droop, but if you lift the hub a couple of inches it has some play in it. I am not sure if the tulip on the inboard end is reversible. At this point I'm moving on. I will double check once the car is down on it's wheels and revisit it if it becomes a problem.
  15. I just found out it is used for the amp meter . disregard
  16. I can only imagine the feeling! congrats Dave! man this build is going so quickly!
  17. After work yesterday I got the left door hinges attached, the pane of glass installed, and some glazing putty on a couple other loose panes, then primer on the replaced wood, in time for it to dry (hopefully enough) before the rain started. got some top coat on the doors and jambs, sorted out the door latches
  18. in the passenger side engine compartment there is a kanto 3 amp fuse ? does anybody know what it is used for? can I get rid of it? thanks
  19. Last week
  20. Does anyone bother to put the plastic bag back over the new Honda motor when re-installing, or is it unnecessary?
  21. Doesn't need to be the most expensive brakes out there though, I'm obviously not going to go back to stock brakes either. I'm willing to get Wildwood brakes (especially the smaller 4 piston brakes that TTT or silver mine sell) but I need to know if it'll work with my Watanabes first.
  22. Brakes are something that you should spend the most money on. It's your only real defense in an accident outside of driving ability and reaction time.
  23. In 2000 i restored my 240z brakes with original rubber hoses and are still on it.. so get the orig hoses from nissan.. simply the best. 😉
  24. Another detour - since I started aligning the barn doors, I decided I needed to address the floating center post Had to cut out 16" of the dimensional 4x4 center post, and about 12" of the dimensional 2x4" door frame/posts. Fortunately I have saved sections of old posts I've cut up for other areas, so I had sufficient lengths to get clean sections for here. I tied two 2x4 together to get the center, set that on a piece of pressure treated sill, and then added the side posts The external plates needed to be actual 1x, so I got 5/4" x 6" decking & cut the width down to 4.5", to get the total 9" width needed Covered the center area with butyl wrap before putting the external plates in Replaced the wood screws with 3" 5/16" lag bolts, so that should hold up. Don't have any in the left door yet, ran out of time & light. I'll deal with that after work tomorrow.
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