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  2. I won't be going. At 70 years old it just isn't safe.
  3. All of the other car clubs I belong to have said "same place same time - next year"
  4. Well, I wouldn't be too sure about that. My '77 is an original Cal. car, and it came well treated with the then conventional asphalt-based undercoat. Not terribly neatly, but thorough.
  5. Ok the lock nut is now against the inner tie rod body Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Today
  7. xkcd has better letters. Like you learn(ed) in drafting class. Back when they used these wooden splinters with graphitous material in the center to draw lines on flat sheets of cellulosic material.
  8. Yesterday
  9. The nut on the threaded portion will lock against the tie rod.
  10. I just got these inner tie rods and does the lock nut lock against the inner tie rod or the actual steering rack. When I took them off I thought it locked against the rack but now I am not sure Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Thanks. Definitely not the bolt i have.
  12. If it is not tightening, it is possible the threads are stripped either on the bolt or the captive nut welded to the back of the firewall. Or... possibly you have an undersize bolt. The one in your pic is not OE, it should look like this one. Also, the bracket tab usually has a rubber insulator.
  13. Just finished charging battery and while fastening the screw of the battery upper frame i noticed it keeps turning and not tightening the frame to the body. Am i missing a washer here?
  14. @Zed Head know what you mean there, I think that's also why I stopped reading it super frequently. I really like this comic https://pinkandblackcomic.tumblr.com I notice some similarities with Calvin/Pink from Calvin and Hobbes.
  15. There are different part numbers for the hazard flasher and turn signal flasher in the parts manual. The hazard flasher part number is still available in the Nissan system, but the turn signal part numbers are NLA. Of course, when I swapped out all of the lights to LED, I went with electronic flashers that for all intents and purposes are interchangeable...but I digress.
  16. I have it idling pretty well now. See the video linked at the bottom. I haven't taken the linkage off before, so maybe the previous owner assembled something incorrectly. Thanks, I'll take a look. I believe so, yes; the springs which return the throttle to closed after opening it? That's what I was sort of thinking. I haven't checked for leaks. If you watch the video below, you can hear a high-pitched sort of buzzing / sucking noise, so I'll have to figure out what's going on there. One of the problems I discovered was I just didn't have enough oil in the carb dampers. I made sure to fill them almost all the way up, and that made the carb pistons way harder to push up. I tried lubing the moving parts, which might have helped a bit, but I'll try giving the linkage a bit of a twist.
  17. I just finished the installation and the good news, it works like a dream. I ordered mine from OEM BMW parts on Amazon.com. The BMW part# 16 12 1 178 035 & cost $83. Well worth it.
  18. Same check valves. Fuel pressure on a z is controlled by an orifice in the return line of the fuel rail.
  19. @zKars Do you know if the check valves from the Nikki 510 pump are the same as the Nikki 240 pump? I noticed in the FSM that specified PSI for the L20 is different than the L16. Is it the Check Value that control that? Anyone?
  20. another area to watch out for is the hazard flasher vs turn signal flasher. IIRC they have the same plug and the units are located in the same area (under dash driver side), Think it may be that one cable is too short to allow incorrect plugin but not sure about that. The actual flash units are much different is size (same pin out), I don't know if they are interchangeable.
  21. Those "flats" on the linkage next to the carbs have a certain way they stack together. I rebuilt my engine and on first start up it shot up close to 2,ooo rpms with the throttle rod unhooked. Really scary. After I got those right it was fine. Hope you find the problem.
  22. A faint memory has crept in to my brain of colored stripes on the relay and maybe the plug. Very faint... Black and green? The funny thing is I also vaguely remember wondering why they were there. Maybe I missed it. Edit - I just looked at the picture and see a blue stripe. Maybe that's the one. I don't see a match though.
  23. Hi all, when I took the harness out, I don’t remember remove any connector if not necessary. I told myself this is a long term project. I want to leave things as intact as much as possible. Beside, the harness didn’t have to go to any holes like the passenger side where wires need to get into engine bay. I must have took it off but can’t remember why. in case anyone interest how the connectors orientation, take a look at the picture below. time to put rest of the lights in and hopefully by weekend, have her around the block. So eager. order of executions - registration - insurance - break the car in for few hundreds miles - readjust valve clearance - looking for ac drier/receiver and r134 conversion terminals like to keep as much original as possible. Replaced worn out parts and rebuild when parts “unobtainium” or cost prohibit 😉 then enjoy fruit of labor 🙂 Then smog check at some point.. ughhhhh ;( we can mark this thread as solved Lookout, there will be a post about AC coming shortly much appreciate everyone.
  24. That's the problem when you license and replicate someone else's design. You usually copy the design flaws, too. You won't find connectors/narrow pins like the 75-77 EFI relay connectors anywhere else in the Z. Those came the Bosch design. Of course, if my designs were perfect, I wouldn't need another engineer to review them...and there would never be red-lines on the drawings from the production floor/startup. Heck, I just carry a red pen with me at work to save time. I never have to hunt for one.
  25. OP. Glad you're making progress and got it running!
  26. Agreed. They did a pretty good job of making sure stuff could only go together one way, but maybe they missed this one. I don't have the spare parts laying around to check for keys, but looking at the pics, I don't see anything. I had my FI harness out of the car a couple years ago to replace a bunch of the connectors etc, and I don't remember any issues getting that FI relay back in correctly. I suspect that after fifty years, my connectors just kinda fell where they belonged. Either that, or as you mentioned, I just checked where the populated contact positions were.
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