Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. We desperately hope this is wrong, but rumor has it that Toyota plans to kill off the Land Cruiser in the US market. If true that would mean the longest running model in the company’s history, offered continuously since day … Continue reading → Read more at JNC Magazine
  3. I know too little about points systems but what I would ask is the dumb question: are you sure it’s not an Electrolytic capacitor connected the wrong way? The only things I’ve seen in the past burning caps are: 1. over voltage 2. incorrect orientation of electrolytic caps 3. Excessive heat (i.e. how are your engine bay temps when this occurs?) 4. Ferroresonace / harmonics with the source that result in undamped oscillations If we say 4 is highly unlikely and 2 is also not the case then you are left with voltage and heat. If you were dramatically over-volting then should other things not be affected also? E.g. gauges etc? Or could there be a 5. Rubbish quality Chinese capacitor being rebranded and sold as a quality item.? The easiest way to troubleshoot is to get a high voltage cap from Radio Spares (RS) with the same uF capacity and a high heat rating. Then test run it. Ideally a ceramic cap if you can get it in the required capacity.
  4. The "fuel capacity" thing is correct (a real surprise for web info). The parts manual clearly shows the difference in the spare tire indentation in the top of the two tanks. I'm not sure about the "extra reinforcing" part, but the change prompted a vertical rise behind the seats and some bolt-on vertical risers (at the front of the spare well and a couple-four bent metal posts that also anchor the luggage straps) to support the new false floor. Oh yeah, and the change occasioned the loss of 5 or 6 cu. ft. of usable storage in the back. I've been trolling around for a "skinny" emergency spare that would allow me to reclaim much of the lost volume above the carpet, not to mention the use of the now-buried cubbies behind the front bulkhead. Speaking of which; anyone know a source of the original metal cubby lids? The aftermarket offerings generally suck.
  5. The repair of the first break by the ash tray actually went well (from some years ago), owing to the piece of compatible plastic I used for the bridging backing. The second, not so much so, as I couldn't come up with another good backing piece (a hunk of a poly-something battery case, as I recall) in my garage . The piece left a very clear impression in all the cyclo-crazy glue and epoxy that I used. The disappointment (an befuddlement) stems from the fact that all that adhesive did not hold the break together. I'm thinking to try roughing the piece up, maybe drill a few small holes, if I can't come up with another piece of styrene, since it seems unlikely that I will find a glue that holds both. I can see the merit of the fiberglas mat, but I would like something with some more body; that run past the ash tray hole is the weakest spot on the console body and needs all the strength it can get. But the Oatley adhesive looks promising. I'm still working out a strategy for the lid's shattered screw posts. Maybe I can find some ABS rod somewhere....
  6. Spent the entire night working on the hatch. I welded up all the holes from the screwed in louvres and welded the emblem holes up as the spoiler will be going over them. I also welded up the hatch release button hole and welded in the pull ring and mounting points for the hatch release solenoid. All ready for final prep!
  7. It is a off the shelf grommet, says it is vinyl on the package so we will see what looks like in 500 miles
  8. Not me. However, the VIN is within 400# or so of my own 5/70, so I'm more interested than usual. Low-miles (perhaps) and looks 'rust-free-ish' (perhaps). Driver's seat look very good. Original? Dash pad appears crack-free, but I suppose it could be a cap. No under-car photos, so there's potentially a lot left unknown there. The thing that caught my attention is that the car still wears 90% of its braided hoses in the engine compartment (even the heater in-out and brake vacuum hoses -- and that's rare to see). The upper and lower rad hoses didn't make the cut, of course.
  9. Unfortunately, the owner of Denver Bumper Works sold the land and the building to a pot company and the owner retired. The new owners of the property razed the building and built new grow houses. Here's a picture that I took soon after the building was razed in July of 2014. I really miss Denver Bumper. I don't think that there are any other chrome shops here in the Denver area.
  10. Yesterday
  11. Well, the problem has come back, and this time I took a deep breath and started trouble shooting before tearing into anything. Much the same symptoms as before, running really rough and smoking. The more it ran the worst it got. To the point it was backfiring and would not stay running. I finally tracked it down to a bad capacitor(brand new) on the points. Once it was replaced to ran like a top for about two days and started again, once again it was another bad capacitor. I do believe my old style electronic external voltage regulator has failed causing the caps to burn up. I replaced the VR with a old mechanical style one and another cap. Seems to be running great again, but I have been here a couple of times already. Is there any thing else I am missing that would fry the cap?
  12. Crazy, I look at the photo that I posted from ZParts and see different sizes. I would have never guessed that they are the same size.
  13. I remember seeing that car at Les' shop when Bill bought it. It was a complete beautifully restored car, as a matter of fact I own the motor that came out of it, of course it is at Miguel's shop.
  14. I mounted my MS3 on the trans tunnel on passenger side . Since I decided to run my harness thru the AC holes I figured I would keep the ECU closer to that . Not sure there is a right or wrong for location- it depends on the owners set up.
  15. Does anyone know if this Denver Bumper is still in business? I tried the number I found Googling it but says its been disconnected. Don't know if I had the right place or not.
  16. I fixed my 240's cracks with fiberglass weave and ABS black glue. Worked it on the underside and it turned out great.
  17. I guess I assumed that he performed the head 'rebuild' work without removing it from the block. If not, it would indeed be hard to understand how the broken bolt wasn't spotted the first time the head was off. Of course, there's always the possibility that it was spotted (and ignored) -- or that it was broken during re-assembly (and ignored) -- and that's why the car burned 2 quarts of oil in 100 miles. For the time being, though. let's give youztheclue the benefit of the doubt and assume that the bolt was broken by someone else.
  18. I will do the canbus wideband as well. I will do the passenger kick panel install. Datsun spirit sales a plate that bolts in.
  19. Thanks Chas! I am looking forward to getting the bodywork done this fall and having the car painted by spring. I am really trying to get it on the road next summer. Fingers crossed.
  20. I haven't decided yet. I have the original ECU location behind the panel on the drivers side footwell, but I also want easy access for the USB port for programming. I actually have a plan to run a USB extension into the dash for the Haltech programming. I also have the CANBUS kit that needs to be installed as well for the wideband O2 sensor.
  21. I used my AC holes since I don’t have AC. Where are you mounting the ECU? I split up my harness running my sensor wires out the opposite side of the engine using the choke hole.
  22. It's an art to be able to apply bondo so thick. He was probably a pastry chef in another life. That car is going to be quite a few kilos lighter when you a finished. Car is looking good and coming along nicely.
  23. For plastics like ABS and Styrene there are a variety of options. The way to tell if its something that will glue easily is to take acetone on a qtip and wipe it somewhere on the part that isn't noticeable. if the plastic melts then you have something like ABS or Styrene. If this is the case than any of the solvent based adhesives will work well. I've had a lot of luck with this stuff for gluing Polycarbonate, ABS, and styrene to themselves and to each other: https://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-10315-Acrylic-Cement-Low-VOC/dp/B003HNFLMY/ref=asc_df_B003HNFLMY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=257328193196&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17422983547376199163&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033288&hvtargid=pla-488800547037&psc=1 If you are fixing a crack I recommend placing a piece of plastic behind the crack bridging the two sides to give extra strength. Also be aware that if any solvent based adhesives leak out on the visible side of the crack you will likely cause a blemish due to plastic "melting" from contact. As stated above fiberglassing the area should work as well. There are also machines you can buy for "welding" the plastic back together. essentially a cross between a soldering iron and tig welding.
  24. The 280Z has a lot more options for wiring as there is the original FI hole on the drivers side plus the standard wiring harness hole on the passenger side.
  25. I got one....love those 240Z Hot Wheels. Sold Out pretty fast.
  26. I got all my boots in, I wish there was an easy way to test the coils. But I know the spring is compressed on the spark plug, so I should be good. How has everyone run new ecu wiring into the engine bay? My early 240z has dealer AC. Which complicates things. Really I only have two holes open. The choke cable hole and the tunnel hole near the shifter. I would rather not cut any holes. If I leave the coil power wiring in the engine bay and do the o2 sensor and maybe the triggers for the coils through tunnel hole I am thinking I might have enough room for it with those two holes? It’s going to be tight, but I think I can do it all clean and nice. I will be using german braied loom for the whole project. No pulsed outputs. Plans Choke hole Injector wiring Cas wiring Air temp Coolant temp TPS Crank trigger wiring Tunnel hole Injector triggers Power and ground O2 sensor Fuel pump wiring is already in place. I also got in the euro kit from Hoke for my crank trigger. Which should work better on my series 1 dampener. I have to remove .08 from the backside to have it perfect. Then off to paint. Blue or black?!
  27. Yeah, I don't get why people do that. Basic dolly work is pretty easy.
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.