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The only thing with a donor pump you need to be very careful when removing the rubber seal, one nick and you’re screwed. To bad rebuild kits are a rare item these days. Crazy how an entire pump is cheaper then a kit..

Just out of curiosity, of the 4 early spray bars, how many of the soldered joints have movement?

Join our club. Put those SUs on a 240. I don't think my stock efi supplies the fuel when it could. It seems like a bottleneck compared to the carbs. The carbs get in the redline and won't stop until you decide. Efi seems to have a governor built in somehow with all the components. I'm talking stock stuff, no work arounds. On newer cars and bikes you have to re configure the ecu to get all the juice squeezed out.

I have a nice set of SUs that I’ve been considering putting in my 77 and dumping the EFI. Why? Maybe because I’m crazy. I must be because my engine purrs with the EFI. Only a sick bastard would fix something that isn’t broken. The idea of carbs appeals to me for some reason. A person on this forum I highly respect told me I’d be making a mistake and making my car less reliable and less easy to own and use. I’d love to see how this works out.

IMG_7311.MOV My Helper…… we moved away as soon as finished making smoke!!

Almost feels like cheating……

Sorry about that CO, the car had been frankencared at some point in it's life, I bought it for the early parts that are on there but not everything is original year wise.

Fuel pump power. What year is the 280Z?

What characteristics are you looking for? I have a box I can look through

I believe the spare wheel well is now available as a reproduction panel. With that deep rusting I would replace it. Especially on a car that has the potential high value that this car could have. https://resurrectedclassics.com/products/datsun-240z-280z-spare-tire-well https://zcardepot.com/products/spare-tire-well-sheet-metal-replacement-240z-260z-280z-70-76#

He goes from efi to SUs here...

I guess, like so many other things, the quality of some coat hangers has declined. Although, a few months ago, I used coat hangers when I reupholstered my Z for the third time in 52 years. Years ago, a friend of mine ran out of welding rods and used coat hangers instead when he welded the headers for his MGB. Good luck with your project!

Wondering what, if any, issues I may have with this swap electrically. I've done this many times for 240Zs I've owned, but am unsure what other functions the ECU manages on a 280Z that I'll have to work around. I plan to manage fuel pressure with an inline regulator to compensate for the difference from 3-5 lbs. (carbs) to +30 lbs. (injection). Thanks for your help/thoughts.

Right rear inner quarter looks clean. plastic fuel vent T broke off, was very brittle. Hoping there is a reproduction for that part. Spare tire space has some surface rust, after a quick wire wheel, the light under the car trick showed no stars ⭐️showing through from below….. border line to replace, have evaluate further for course of action.

So I talked to @Terrapin Z in PM about this cylinder, and I completely glossed over the fact that........ It's the later style and is completely different inside than what I'm working with. So unfortunately, I'm out of luck. And a little embarrassed that I didn't notice it until now.

Got it. Thanks guys.

Thank you 😁 Unfortunately all the coat hangers these days are a thin gauge wire - I do indeed have plenty of those white coated ones, but they bend too easily for this. I used Stainless rod so I won't get rust should the seats get damp DTR

This car is a lot better than I initially imagined. Very encouraging!

The dots around ASAHI give you the YEAR of manufacture, and the dots around TEMPERLITE and LAMISAFE give the month.

Next time, if you run out of "$$ welding rods", use wire coat hangers. They work well and you probably have a few in your closet.

Finally found a donor. Here is some progress. Not an excellent fix but coming along. I was able to put a JB weld on the outside while keeping it taped on the inside so that it does not spill inside. Seems like it worked well. Now planning to use a heat gun to melt some plastic and even out the surface in the inside and probably some light black spray coat. I am also planning to put some fiber glass strips on the outside underneath where it starts to crack mostly to avoid future damage. Will keep posted.

When I got mine, it was frozen as well. Let it sit in a bucket of wd-40 for a few days, then put it in a vice and used an air compressor to blow everything out. It cleaned up nicely, with no issues.

Did the upholstery today - I was off work, and just as well because it ended up taking most of the day to do it. One of the zippers was broken. I tried first to fix what was there, along with resewing the seam, that didn't work. So I had to take the seam part again, and replace the damaged pull/zipper with a better quality one. That ended up taking a couple hours. No word back from Ridies.com on the missing hardware or the broken zipper. Covers also didn't come with the required wire rods for attachment, so I made them using $$ welding rod Added aftermarket seat heaters that match the wiring I've already installed. The factory 350Z seat heaters are sewn to the upholstery. No practical way to transfer that, and it would have had to rewire the car to make it work anyway. Damaged zipper After first repair, pull tab also snapped off All zipped up Sewed over the zipper end so it can't open up on the backside of the pull Stronger pull Drivers seat cushion One self inflicted wound - I miscut the opening for the back release 🥺 Back in car. Plugged the seat heaters, but forgot to test them

they do make electrical parts cleaner that should be safe for such, CRC QD electronic cleaner being one option https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/crc-qd-electronic-cleaner-11-wt.-oz.-05103/7070074-p?product_channel=local&store=6231&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=local&store_code=6231&&&&&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiYOxBhC5ARIsAIvdH51nrWg10-50j4owm9fjsH4M0HUrQDGzF_mpjnbAWbhSLmBdHCWO_G0aAs_BEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

The two hole pump is for L16/18/20. Four banger. Great donor for internal parts. I once bought a Toyota fuel pump that was also an organ donor. I suspect that design was used on many Japanese cars in the day