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  2. Not today but the weekend ... Best savoured with headphones.
  3. If there is slack in the output U-joints then the slack may be in the output shafts and not internal to the diff
  4. Ya mc is adjusted correctly already and theres proper clearance at the slave. I think I'm gunna replace the clutch itself and see where that gets me
  5. I made a movie of my wife backing the car down the drive then driving back forward (aft to the fore? :-) ). Sure enough, the wheels clearly moved out then back in. I checked the ride height arbitrarily at the bumper and it changed from 18 3/8 to 17 5/8 or about 3/4". And it was consistent, we did it several times and got the same result. At 34M, I think the vid is too big to post unless the admins say otherwise. Is it possible that the toe-in is so severe that the car sort of rolls up on itself going forward then settles down when backed up as the wheels track outward? When I installed the new tie-rods, I had counted the number of turns taking off the old ones and matched the turns going back on with the new ones. I think it was 17 turns or so for each. And it drives pretty straight around the block so maybe the toe-in is equal? I guess I'll put the new struts back in first (pretty well proved they are not the problem) and take it in for an alignment and see what happens. I've got a local shop that's tuned in to "classic" cars so they should spot any problem right away.
  6. That means that it is likely that the switch is not being actuated.
  7. That's thermostat opening, not sure you have a problem. Get or borrow an infrared temp guns and see what the actual temp is.
  8. Today
  9. I had a set of Bad Dog frame rails and sub-frame connectors installed. They were installed by the late John Coffey when he owned Beta Motorsports. Z's are a little special with the floor pans given their unibody construction, so I can't really recommend anyone else right now unfortunately.
  10. Yeah, I checked on it this morning. Glad you got close to what you had the original reserve set for! Random question, did you have the floors / rails replaced? If so, where'd you get it done? I'm local (Tustin) and i'm searching for a place for some rust repair.
  11. I had the reserve originally at $20k. If you were watching the auction, it hit $10k on Day 1 and then just sat at $10k until the last hour. Ramped up to $14k in 30 minutes and then sat until the last 10 minutes. Went from $14k to $17.5k in a blink and I lowered reserve to $17.5k. It then jumped to $19k.
  12. Saw that. Congrats. If you dont mind me asking, what did you have the reserve set at?
  13. Well, it "sold" for $19,000, so I would say that it did well. The bidding got really fast and furious in the last 30 minutes.
  14. You'll want a little free play (1" or so) at the top of the pedal but a worn clevis pin in pedal pivot can make it feel like there's free play but there really isn't. The best way to check the free play is at the slave cylinder. After adjusting the MC pushrod so there's about an inch of free play at the top of the pedal stroke (assuming the pedal is at the right height) disconnect the slave cylinder spring and push on the end of the release (throw-out) fork. There should be a little (1/8"-3/16" free play in the release fork. That ensures the clutch will release completely and not slip.
  15. No Site..... all 240Z trannies and 280Z and ZX trannies are the exact same dimensions. All can use either a 240Z clutch or a 280Z clutch or in the case of a 240mm flywheel, they would use a 2 plus 2 clutch. The only thing that affects the collar, is which clutch you use. 240Z clutch.....use 240Z collar. 280Z clutch....use 280Z collar. 2plus2 clutch uses 2plus2 collar. I like to use 240Z clutches in all my Z’s except the ones with 240mm flywheel (2plus2 collar). That way, I keep everything simple. If you get a new clutch, just ask for the collar that fits that clutch. I would use Motorsports because you can talk to someone and make sure they ship you a 240Z clutch, 240Z collar and throw out bearing as a package. All throwout bearings are the same for all three clutches.
  16. Both of my parking brake cable hangers are broken, allowing the cables to lay on the u-joints of the stub axles. Do any of you know a source for replacement parts or have a nice solution to replacing these? Thanks!
  17. Just tested, there is no continuity when the switch is unplugged and the transmission is in reverse.
  18. Ok thanks I'll try this later on when the sun goes down a bit! If there is alot of travel in the pedal before I start to feel resistance should I adjust until the point of no play?? If theres already no play should I still try adjusting?
  19. Wouldn't a 5 speed have a different collar heighth than a '71 240Z's 4 speed?
  20. As I understand it the problem appears to be the clutch not fully releasing. Most clutch problems involve slipping. Yours it would seem is either in the previously mentioned collar size or in the hydraulics. I have installed new hydraulic cylinders in the past and had to adjust the M. C. push rod. How much play in inches (easy to push) is there in the clutch pedal before you feel the resistance from the pressure plate? I'd try the M.C. pushrod adjustment. I use a sharpie on the threads to mark the original position
  21. 4 or 5 speed trannies are same dimension. Only thing that affects collar size is the clutch. 240Z clutch requires 240Z collar...280Z clutch requires 280Z collar. 240mm flywheel requires 2plus2 collar.
  22. No I havent tried that yet but I get a good pedal so I'm not sure if that would be the issue. Also I dont want to adjust it and then have to figure out how to get it back to where it is if that isnt the issue The master cylinder that I replaced looked to be original and I set the new one to the exact same length so I'm kinda thinking that wouldnt be the problem as much as the clutch itself
  23. Did you try lengthening the master cylinder rod to clutch pedal yet?
  24. Are you using the OE 4 speed or has it been swapped out for 5 gears? That's where the collar heights come into play.
  25. I don't believe so because the front wheels were on ramps and the rear was on the ground. Actually, the output shafts can still move if that play occurs in the diff. Right?
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