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When I got mine, it was frozen as well. Let it sit in a bucket of wd-40 for a few days, then put it in a vice and used an air compressor to blow everything out. It cleaned up nicely, with no issues.

Did the upholstery today - I was off work, and just as well because it ended up taking most of the day to do it. One of the zippers was broken. I tried first to fix what was there, along with resewing the seam, that didn't work. So I had to take the seam part again, and replace the damaged pull/zipper with a better quality one. That ended up taking a couple hours. No word back from Ridies.com on the missing hardware or the broken zipper. Covers also didn't come with the required wire rods for attachment, so I made them using $$ welding rod Added aftermarket seat heaters that match the wiring I've already installed. The factory 350Z seat heaters are sewn to the upholstery. No practical way to transfer that, and it would have had to rewire the car to make it work anyway. Damaged zipper After first repair, pull tab also snapped off All zipped up Sewed over the zipper end so it can't open up on the backside of the pull Stronger pull Drivers seat cushion One self inflicted wound - I miscut the opening for the back release 🥺 Back in car. Plugged the seat heaters, but forgot to test them

they do make electrical parts cleaner that should be safe for such, CRC QD electronic cleaner being one option https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/crc-qd-electronic-cleaner-11-wt.-oz.-05103/7070074-p?product_channel=local&store=6231&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=local&store_code=6231&&&&&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiYOxBhC5ARIsAIvdH51nrWg10-50j4owm9fjsH4M0HUrQDGzF_mpjnbAWbhSLmBdHCWO_G0aAs_BEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

The two hole pump is for L16/18/20. Four banger. Great donor for internal parts. I once bought a Toyota fuel pump that was also an organ donor. I suspect that design was used on many Japanese cars in the day

Many thanks to KATS for sharing years ago….

There is a proper name for the decipher……looking at the “white dot”, over or under letters of appropriate name…

So pardon my ignorance on the early cars, but how do you read / interpret the date codes on the glass? I'm assuming it's the "M-214"?

I saw him with his band. Maybe ten years ago? RIP.

Thanks !

Bought it off eBay, listing was for “BRAND NEW NIKKI FUEL PUMP 271070” for $100. Not sure what it was originally for. Pump only had 2 mounting holes. I just used the guts to retain my original pump. All pieces matched fine. Looks like jdm-car-parts sells an actual rebuild kit, for an eye watering $125.

Roof/door frame of body at top of quarter window showing some decay on drivers side, will need some repair.

Removing glass today documenting quarter windows … both dated 9/69 rear hatch…..dated 9/69 passenger window…dated 9/69 front window was aftermarket that literally crumbled in my hands while removing Drivers door window 9/70….”door and glass appear to have been replaced to that approx year.

What exactly was the "donor" pump for? Carl

The Look on their faces is priceless! I'm going to forward this to Bob..

Got it. Well, that may be how your life goes, but that's not how stuff works for me. Hahahaha!! I'm gonna toss the master in the ultrasonic cleaner and see what happens after that. If I can't get those valve seats out, I'll just leave them alone. As long as they are clean, they don't seem to be causing any trouble.

Im not sure I would use chemicals on the armature. I would probably just blow it out and wipe the brushes off. Might Scotch Brite the brushes. I would think degreaser would be fine in the motor case

Man I love Caddy's ! a 70 coupe de ville is still on my bucket list for a sunday cruiser

not bad ! he really did put in effort. Is this allowed by Ferrari ? Cause usually when you make replica's you have lawyers all over you 😂 It's cool but I wouldn't drive around in a replica lol

Great info, thx. Also of note, the original examples shown have a trunkbed plate with welded nuts in place of the provided plate, with welded studs- likely also for ease of installation. The original nut-plate solution is also how the roll bar was installed on my Works car. i can certainly understand why Mizukami went with the latter stud system, as the original welded-nut-plate solution requires 4 large holes to be drilled into the floorboard. A very subtle difference that 99.5% of enthusiasts would probably not recognize. (thatsa lotta nuts & studs talk)

Now that Ive completed the core and heater box I'm moving on to the blower motor and fresh air box. Have a question about the motor but before i get there I want to first acknowledge @Namerow because I couldnt have gotten anywhere near as good as it came out without the help here. truly a great post and for a newbie like me as simple as i could have hoped. Before After Now on to the motor. The previous owner dumped paint on everything like it was a chocolate sunday it seems trying to cover anything they didnt want to address before selling. the motor housing is a mess so I need to repaint that and the box looks pretty much like the heater box did so that needs new gaskets and paint as well. Now that I have it disassembled, the inside of the housing has a thick layer of soot and grime in there surrounding the magnets. and the wire spool seems to be in great shape but also had a bunch of dirt and dust fall out of it when i took it out the switch was in great shape with the springs having good tension and surprisingly the screws look like they must have on day 1 at the factory I mean really, look at those. Its like I just bought them for 20 bucks from Zeddsaver LOL! So here's the question in all this. Is it Ok to use a degreaser on the electric coils and the inner housing where the magnets are? I've been using it all along as a first step in all these restos. Typically spray on, let sit a bit but not to full dryness, wash off with clean water to neutralize and remove. then on to sanding painting etc. If I do this to clean the inner housing and coils any issue? And I guess I apply some grease to the axle before reassembly? This all worked well before I took it out almost 18 months ago so it should all still be fine.

Has to be a nice ride too. Potential buyers probably aren't bothered by the mpg's. $172,000 didn't get it, but they're working on a deal.

That's a cool old caddy! Probably gets about 5mpg