I'm a new owner, recent purchase of this car: Bring-A-Trailer Auction 71 240Z

I've gotten the rust fixed and am trying to get it to a reliable, driving car. Lots of things were wrong that weren't mentioned in the action. Like a leaky fuel tank and bad brake booster. New booster and master cylinder has gone in this holiday and also installed a Nismo fuel pump at the rear to get rid of the electric pump that was mounted to the block and wired to the ballast for power.

I wired up the Nismo and no joy. I pulled the connections and put a volt meter to the black and green wires at the harness and I'm getting nothing. I've got extensive experience with working on cars, worked as a race mechanic during the 90's on Formula cars, and some GTs. Have owned two other 240Z (a 73 and 70) and have owned a 91 Toyota MR2 since 99 and done almost everything on. BUT, I know very little about wiring. So this is going to be a big learning experience, please help me out.

Where should I start? I've looked a the fuse box and there doesn't seem to be any thing there for the rear pump. When I pulled the electrical tape to free the two wires for the pump a lot of dust came out of the female connector and I gave it a good squirt of electrical cleaner and let it dry overnight. But as I'm not getting power I don't thing that's the issue. I have a temp mounting bracket for the pump. Please see the pick and thank you in advance.

Edit - and congratulations. Looks like a solid car.

This is 1972. It shows an inline fuse. Not sure where it is though. But the diagram shows it by the fuse panel.

Edited yesterday at 01:22 AM1 day by Zed Head

This post from the past on Hybridz is informative.  Says that the wire is not connected in the cabin.

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/83355-wiring-in-electric-fuel-pump/?do=findComment&comment=789840

Here's another from CZCC.  I seem to enjoy this topic.

Edited yesterday at 01:28 AM1 day by Zed Head

The 20amp fuse referenced in the schematic is probably part of the assembly under the dash (in the vicinity of the fuse box) that Nissan used in the cars that actually had an electric fuel pump from the factory.

The "fuel pump connector" under the dash - a 2-pin female with a Black/White and Green wire - may well have been tied together with wiring that included a 20amp fuse. Probably not a bad idea to include the fuse with an impact sensor while you're connecting those to enable power to the fuel pump wiring already in every 240Z body harness.

(and again, the reason the electric fuel pump wiring as referenced in the schematic wasn't allowed in the US is the LACK of a "safety mechanism" to stop the fuel pump operation in a collision)

Edited 9 hours ago9 hr by cgsheen1

Hmm... Ok. I can't seem to find the Black/White and Green wire. There doesn't appear to be anything tied in under the electrical tape, or at least that I can tell. I've attached some pics if any of you can spot that connector or where it might be point it out. cgsheen1, noted about the fuse and impact sensor, those will certainly be added to the growing list.

3059B833-18DE-4968-9712-208BCEC811BC.heic

9820C1D0-2E57-48D3-9CF3-963FCA9666BE.heicE07385F0-A81B-424C-8081-247F872673BE.heic

Edited 7 hours ago7 hr by senna21
Pics not showing in post

Now on to the second part of help I'm in need of. I just wanted to double check that this is the correct connection for the resistor, coil, and distributor. The distributor is a Petronix. Looking at the top of the coil the +Positive is on the left and -Negative is on the right.

Edited 4 hours ago4 hr by senna21

Also found this at the front of the car next to the passenger side lamp housing. 😐 New engine bay harness has already been ordered from Restoration Classics along with vent hoses. I've also gotten their zinc hardware kit and complete weatherstripping but ordered it through Summit racing. Same price but shipping was free with Summit. 

Senna,

Regarding your Pertronix installation I noticed in the first picture above it appears that you have the ballast resistor in the circuit. If this is true you should move the positive lead for the Pertronix module to the ignition (12 vdc) side of the ballast resistor. I you have bypassed the ballast resistor then your connections to the + and - sides of the coil are correct. I've attached the Pertronix installation guide for your information as it explains why I am making this comment.

JPC

Pertronix Installation .pdf

Thanks jpc3006-1. I'm assuming that'll be the side with the Black wire? Voltage measurement there is 10V and on the other side is right around 6V. That's with the ignition to the "ON" position, as the car's not currently able to run. Voltage at the battery is 12V.

On a more positive note, the clock actually works. Who would have thunk it? It's just ticking away...