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- just got my '72.


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Posted (edited)

I briefly owned a JDM 2.0L 70 Fairlady in college (around '95) that I traded a Marine a motorcycle for.  I really loved it, but it ended up being beyond my abilities in terms of rust and foolishly let it go to the scrapyard - triple carbs, magnesium wheels, and everything.  I've lost many nights' sleep over that tragedy since then - particularly since I ended up in a  restoration career - so when I decided to call it quits with other folks' cars, I bought myself the most rust-free '72 Z I could find - to make amends for my past sins, I suppose.  🙂

I'm glad I stumbled upon this forum - I'm already learning tons of history and historical details, going very much down the rabbit hole, and will have MANY questions about my 240 as I touch up and renew some things that age has gotten the better of.  So, thanks in advance!

I'll grab some photos of it tomorrow at the shop for posterity and to start this off properly.  Stay tuned.

Edited by eimkeith
typo
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12 hours ago, eimkeith said:

I briefly owned a JDM 2.0L 70 Fairlady in college (around '95)

So that would be the 6 cyl. 2 liter engine with the E30 head? (Looks like the 2,4 ltr engine of the common 240z)  Or... are you talking about the 2 ltr (yamaha) twin cam engine ?? (also used in the Datsun fairlady 432?)

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12 hours ago, eimkeith said:

Stay tuned.

I will! I will!  I want to see those old pic's..!!!!

BTW, you chose a good example 240z for your new hobby, not my favourite color combination but hey it's your car!  (I did say it yesterday... don't like the red interior, but that's just my taste hahaha...

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1 hour ago, dutchzcarguy said:

I will! I will!  I want to see those old pic's..!!!!

BTW, you chose a good example 240z for your new hobby, not my favourite color combination but hey it's your car!  (I did say it yesterday... don't like the red interior, but that's just my taste hahaha...

unfortunately, I don't have any college photos - it was a long time ago, and pre-smartphone, we didn't think to document everything we were doing back then.  🙂

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1 hour ago, dutchzcarguy said:

So that would be the 6 cyl. 2 liter engine with the E30 head? (Looks like the 2,4 ltr engine of the common 240z)  Or... are you talking about the 2 ltr (yamaha) twin cam engine ?? (also used in the Datsun fairlady 432?)

E30 head - I did keep the JDM license plate and the emblems (really should have grabbed the mirrors and carbs too.)

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4 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Or... are you talking about the 2 ltr (yamaha) twin cam engine ?? (also used in the Datsun fairlady 432?)

Nissan's S20 engine was nothing to do with Yamaha. It had Prince lineage.

The Fairlady Z 432 was a Nissan. There was no 'Datsun Fairlady 432'.

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Posted (edited)

ok, first request for group wisdom: I'm looking at renewing all the rubber on the car, and my porsche experience dictates factory seals when & where possible. 

However, MSA advertises their Exclusive 27-Piece Weatherstrip Kit, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z Coupe (all aftermarket reproduction seals as far as I can tell) for $359.87; whereas if I go through that package and eliminate all of the year-inappropriate items and then substitute factory seals for the remainder where available, the price jumps to $950.77.  Am I being overly conservative here with the bias toward factory seals?  On 911s, aftermarket windshield seals are guaranteed to leak and create installation issues, hence my reservation to use aftermarket...

Edited by eimkeith
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There are probably five major seals that would be best suited to Nissan OE if available: windshield, L/R doors, hatch glass, hatch inner. The principle suppliers of repro seals are Precision Replacment Products (PRP) and Vintage Rubber. The MSA kit is likely composed of PRP items. I heard some brief mentions some time ago the VR was actually using some pieces from PRP but I cannot confirm the accuracy of that. PRP door and hatch inner seals have long had a reputation for being fat leading to difficulty closing the doors and hatch. Most of the PRP seals for other areas can be used with good results. Don't overlook Banzai Motorworks and 240ZRubberParts for alternate sources of high quality repro items. Just my $0.05 worth - if that much! 😉 I'm sure others on this forum can chime in with experiences with both PRP and VR items.

https://www.prp.com/

https://vintagerubber.com/

http://www.zzxdatsun.com/

https://www.240zrubberparts.com/

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1 hour ago, jfa.series1 said:

There are probably five major seals that would be best suited to Nissan OE if available: windshield, L/R doors, hatch glass, hatch inner. The principle suppliers of repro seals are Precision Replacment Products (PRP) and Vintage Rubber. The MSA kit is likely composed of PRP items. I heard some brief mentions some time ago the VR was actually using some pieces from PRP but I cannot confirm the accuracy of that. PRP door and hatch inner seals have long had a reputation for being fat leading to difficulty closing the doors and hatch. Most of the PRP seals for other areas can be used with good results. Don't overlook Banzai Motorworks and 240ZRubberParts for alternate sources of high quality repro items. Just my $0.05 worth - if that much! 😉 I'm sure others on this forum can chime in with experiences with both PRP and VR items.

https://www.prp.com/

https://vintagerubber.com/

http://www.zzxdatsun.com/

https://www.240zrubberparts.com/

Thank you so much!  Lots of time saved right there; appreciated!

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Yep, rubber seals are tough. I pretty much have everything in my restoration settled except the major rubber. On several occasions I have gone down rabbit holes trying to figure out which ones to buy. One post says Vintage another PRP then some suggest Kia rubber. I think I am going to wait until the last minute and order, that way I can send them back it they are junk. From my experience if Mike (Banzai Motorworks) sells it, then its top tier. I guess thats the reason he doesn't sell door seals :).

What kind of 911's? I bought an 87 911 Cab M491 last year that had been sitting for over 15 years! My first Porsche, super fun car. Looks like you got a really nice 240, jealous looking at all that solid metal!

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK, now I'm considering picking up an inexpensive '83 ZX project car for the 5 speed and rear end.  I'm leaning toward putting my original stuff on a pallet on the shelf until it's time to let go of the car, so as to keep the mileage down on the original parts, while increasing the enjoyment factor in the interim.

If I do so, what other parts should I harvest from the ZX before the shell is sold?  Engine, surely.  Anything brake or axle related?

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3 hours ago, eimkeith said:

OK, now I'm considering picking up an inexpensive '83 ZX project car for the 5 speed and rear end.  I'm leaning toward putting my original stuff on a pallet on the shelf until it's time to let go of the car, so as to keep the mileage down on the original parts, while increasing the enjoyment factor in the interim.

If I do so, what other parts should I harvest from the ZX before the shell is sold?  Engine, surely.  Anything brake or axle related?

Definitely keep the engine.  You want to also keep the half shafts and drive shaft.   I put an "83ZX drive train in a '71  240Z and it was great fun to drive.

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5 hours ago, Marty Rogan said:

Definitely keep the engine.  You want to also keep the half shafts and drive shaft.   I put an "83ZX drive train in a '71  240Z and it was great fun to drive.

As I'm thinking more about it, I'm inclined to pull the entire low-mileage drivertrain from the '72 and put it on the shelf, put carbs on the ZX engine and install that drivetrain...  Should be completely reversible, no?

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14 hours ago, eimkeith said:

As I'm thinking more about it, I'm inclined to pull the entire low-mileage drivertrain from the '72 and put it on the shelf, put carbs on the ZX engine and install that drivetrain...  Should be completely reversible, no?

Yes!  It is pretty amazing how easy it is to put in later Z parts into an early chassis.   You will need to use an electric fuel pump, as the ZX motor has no provision for a mechanical fuel pump.  the wiring for it is all there.  Above the diff, toward the right side, look for a connector wrapped in blue tape. You get power for the pump there. Then behind the radio there is another connector wrapped in the same tape. Here I put in a jumper wire, so when the key is turned to the "on" position, the pump runs.  If you use the SU carbs, make sure you get a fuel pump that only puts out around 3 PSI or you can  flood the carbs.  You will need round ports headers/manifold for the exhaust.

As Yarb is hinting toward, make sure the drive train is good before you put it in.

 

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