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1977, 280z with FS5W71B transmission


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believe me, when you're motivated, you'll get thing done rather quickly.  Beside, experts in this forum help me a lot.  Cut down the time searching the net.  The time it took the most actually waiting for parts, especially the left threaded main shaft nut.

This is my first rebuild transmission.  I used the tools I have at hand.  Mostly Mineral Spirit, brake cleaner, wire brush and lots of old dirty T-Shirt.  Putting back is surprising easy and fast with the mini torch to warm up the bearing.  I did not do ultra sonic cleaning of the gears/synchros as I do not have the tools.  Mineral Spirit works wonders on soften/breakdown the layers of old oil.

 

Everything is at least 3 times heavier when you're under the car.  I do not have the lift.  And thanks God, first try I got it latch on.  Thanks part to the transmission tunnel.  It help keep the transmission from topple down side way.

I recall when I install the differential.  Though the back has more room and clearance.  It took me at least 5 times to get it on.

Will get the rest of the exhaust hardware install later.

 

stay tune folks

 

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Folks, exhaust is in.

I seal threaded the drain and filler bolts and fill the oil via the speedometer hole.  I use the cheappo hand pump from harbor freight till the oil start creeping out the speedometer.  Then I raise the engine up a bit to drain more oil out.  The speedometer and filler holes are pretty close horizontal wise.  
 

fire up the car start immediately.  Gosh I miss the clunker, old, noise sound.  The transmission is so quiet.  No more rattle noise

image.jpeg

 

took for a spin and it does feel smooth.  Shifting gears are so nice.  This is what driving car suppose to be.  
 

will do more drive test.  Did I tell you I miss this old, manual, noisy car sound.  The goddess, pleasant 3k+ internal combustion explosions per minute  !!!

 

 

2BB16C23-E7F8-4BAA-AA49-6A0A765E2209.jpeg

BBC3E7DE-3668-49EA-BB59-E281085DB39A.jpeg

98516BDE-6DEF-4D31-AF2E-A891732B4EE9.jpeg

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Posted (edited)

That was a lot of work in a short amount of time.  Impressed.  Well done.

(p.s. go Sounders!  ha ha ...)  Edit - no offense.  I'm just trolling for soccer fans.  You might be rooting for the Sounders too...

p.s. 2 CONCACAF Champion's League final tonight.  USA team v. Mexico team.

Edited by Zed Head
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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Zed Head said:

(p.s. go Sounders!  ha ha ...)  Edit - no offense.  I'm just trolling for soccer fans.  You might be rooting for the Sounders too...

I’m so mad now.  My head is on fire 🔥.  Steam is coming out of my ears…

 

hahaha never sir.  I’m too focus on getting my car back to life.  Don’t have cable nor any subscriptions to any sport channel.  If I can help it, I rather play than watching other plays .

 

hope your team won.

 

Edited by 240zadmire
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believe me, when you're motivated, you'll get thing done rather quickly.  Beside, experts in this forum help me a lot.  Cut down the time searching the net.  The time it took the most actually waiting for parts, especially the left threaded main shaft nut.
This is my first rebuild transmission.  I used the tools I have at hand.  Mostly Mineral Spirit, brake cleaner, wire brush and lots of old dirty T-Shirt.  Putting back is surprising easy and fast with the mini torch to warm up the bearing.  I did not do ultra sonic cleaning of the gears/synchros as I do not have the tools.  Mineral Spirit works wonders on soften/breakdown the layers of old oil.
 
Everything is at least 3 times heavier when you're under the car.  I do not have the lift.  And thanks God, first try I got it latch on.  Thanks part to the transmission tunnel.  It help keep the transmission from topple down side way.
I recall when I install the differential.  Though the back has more room and clearance.  It took me at least 5 times to get it on.
Will get the rest of the exhaust hardware install later.
 
stay tune folks
 

Wow, that was fast. I have my backup transmission that needs a rebuild. Once the rest of my car is done I’ll try this rebuild. A technique I used to keep the transmission tail up when putting in the mount was to put a rope on the end of the transmission then trough the shifter opening in the body and tied it to a 2x2 that ran inside the car. When I wanted to raise our lower the tranny I would rotate the 2x2 tighten it loosening the rope . Worked great.


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The gear needle bearing race bushing between the wide and close ratio are different.  The wide ratio is very easy to slide in/out.  Perhaps 1/100th ID bigger.  You'll need some authority and firm persuasion to get it out on the close ratio.  I had to warm it up/down couple of times to get it out.  If you have impact gun, it help tremendously.  Beside that, everything else is relatively easy.

 

I highly suggest you to rebuild yours.  Had I rebuild mine when I did the engine, I think I would not have this main shaft needle blown up that toasted the main output shaft.  When I changed the transmission oil last time, the oil was clean as there isn't any noticeable metal on the magnetic drain nut.  But only couple of thousand miles, the blown needle bearing shaved off lot of metal on the main output shaft.

 

 

nissan-32349e9800-1567661510825-big.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Greeting folks,

 

I've put about 400 miles on the new re-built close-ratio transmission.  Got to say I like close-ratio transmission, a lot; especially shifting gears from 1st,2nd,3rd.  The feeling that the wide-ratio didn't give me was that the "continuity" pick up from one gear to the another as if it is one continuous gear.  Love it.  The tall 5th gear also lower RPM as well.  RPM a little close to 3K when approaching 80 mph.    This is definitely help saving gas mileage, more than ever in Southern California where regular is hovering $6/gallon.  Ouch and burning 😉

 

No good deed goes unpunished, or whatever phrase is appropriate at for this ... 😉

Seem like I notice 2 new "issues".  They probably related so I'll list them out.

1.  Occasionally, and I mean occasionally I lost power.  I don't mean the car lost power by lowering RPM.  What I experienced was that the car was accelerating or while cruising and the transmission or the clutch looses traction.  It feel as if I released the clutch too fast when shifting gear from 2-3-4.  I hope I describe it correctly.  Please keep in mind that the RPM was either increasing or constant cruising in certain gear.  It happen every now and then.  Not like I can reproduce the problem.

 

2.  I recently couldn't pass on a good deal on the set of mag wheel.  Look like the below.

14836d1495511024-slotted-mag-id-20170522

I swapped fairly new tires set.  About maybe 4000 miles on it.  The new wheel also balanced.  I didn't align the wheels though.  Just balanced the tires on the new wheels.  What I notice was that at close to 80mph, the rear is vibrating a lot.   I mean, I can feel my seat vibrating noticeably.  The transmission shifter gears feel normal though.  Read on forums seem to point to unbalance drive shaft.  

 

I'll check again if any nut/bolts of the half shafts loose ... btw, all u-joints are about 4000 miles old except the u-joint of the drive shaft are 40+ years old 😉

 

what do you think where is the culprit? 

 

 

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Z car wheels are lug centric.  In other words, the lugs and lug nuts are used to set the center of wheel's spinning motion.  I would check the holes in the wheels and the lug nuts.  Make sure that they fit tightly.  Those wheels require a certain type of lug nut, that fits the hole precisely, not the tapered seat nuts that a steel wheel would use.  Also, check the seating surface of the wheel on the hub.  Might be some crud causing wheel runout.

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Took the rear wheels off.  Adjust the drum brakes a bit tighter.  Wire brush the inside stubs where they meet the drums as well as the wheel where they meet the drums.  Took for spins and still have that vibration around 80mph

I also checked all nuts on the joints for play and everything are tight.

 

the nuts I’m using look like below 

image.jpeg

 For sure the old turbine wheels, the the holes for the nuts are a hair tighter/smaller.

 

what else can there be?

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That rim looks a bit used.  Aluminum wheels can bend also even though they often break.  I'd lift each wheel, set up a runout indicator next to it and give it a spin.  A runout indicator can be just a screwdriver sitting on a cinder block.

The guy that balanced them should have noticed something but might have had old equipment.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Took your suggestions…. The run off from center tread is about 1/32nd uneven on all wheels.  Rotate front/back, left/right still have vibration.  I narrow down to the right rear wheel case the most vibration.  
 

one note, I didn’t replace the wheel bearings when I restore the car.  I tried to shake the wheel by hand, kicking the tires and seem very sturdy.

 

another note is that no vibration when accelerating.   I’m able to accelerate to 90mph in the morning when traffic was really light and no vibration while accelerating.  As soon as I put in neutral or decelerating, the vibration begins until below 70mph.

 

I did check all nuts, halfshafts, drive shaft, all bushing, basically all bolt and nuts under the suspension and all are tight.  
What’s the deal?

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On 5/23/2022 at 3:16 PM, 240zadmire said:

I've put about 400 miles on the new re-built close-ratio transmission.

 

On 5/23/2022 at 3:16 PM, 240zadmire said:

couldn't pass on a good deal on the set of mag wheel.

 

On 5/23/2022 at 3:16 PM, 240zadmire said:

I swapped fairly new tires set.  About maybe 4000 miles on it.

Did you do these three things at the same time?  Maybe there's a problem with the transmission, not the rims or tires.

Or maybe something got bent when the car was lifted to put the wheels on.  If you used the rebuilt transmission with the old wheels and didn't have the problem then you can narrow it down to what happened when the wheels were put on. 

Since it worked well before it is most likely a problem that was created when the recent work was done.  Don't get distracted by other things.  Look at the work that was just done.

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When I swapped the transmission, the car was on wood blocks and the head of the pressed 😉. Basically it was on high evenly with the wheels intact.  I don’t think i bent anything, but who knows I might screw up somewhere. 
 

Granted I didn’t have a lot of miles on the new transmission with the old wheels, but I didn’t notice anything so vibrating like this.  You can say I’m one of the guys noticing weird stuff.  I’m very sensitive about/around my surrounding area. 😉. It’s a gift/curse some might say. 
 

last night I craw under the car again, trying to shake the driveshaft, check all bolts/nuts and they all seem sturdy.  No play.  What I notice is the transmission mount under the shifter is a bit “movable”  I think it should be like that to compensate the engine vibrating.  Unless the rubber is weak and about to give out, I think it’s should be like that.

 

another thing I read that the trap for the differential might be too loose… mine is about 1/4” gap, so I tried hard to put a spare rubber hose between the differential nose and the strap to tighten it for added measure. 
 

2 things I think might go the issues.

1. The wheel weren’t balance properly. 
2. the driveshaft is on its way out

3. possibly the drums warped.

 

I’ll will take the car for rebalancing once more time and see 


stay tune 

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Not all shops or technicians created equal !

 

the shop that I bought the tires mounted, balanced and aligned the wheels/tires, were decent.  At lease I was happy for a year until I took the new mag wheels to swapped out the tires and balanced on the new wheels. 
needless to say, same shop, different technician have different results.  Reason I went for this same shop because Costco do not carry the tires size of the stock rims, 14”.

 

I took the car to Costco for balance.  The technician was cautious as he didn’t want to mess up the “classic” car as there’s no place to jack up the car.  I had to convince him the location where he can put the lifters in.  However, he still hesitated and the manager need to approve.  Manager didn’t want it either and insist to lift the car at the frame rails… fortunately, I did reenforce the frame rails so I ageed.

Low and behold, 90 minutes pass and it’s done.  Drove the car home, though short distance and NO VIBRATION at all.  I will have to do more driving tomorrow to confirm the result, but so far I'm happy with the result.

 

 

stay tune folks 

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23 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

I ask my nephew if he was a starter for his baseball team. He didn't know what that meant, said he was a player.

Though I’m not that old… but this generation is so confused! 🙂

 

well, nothing beat a morning cruise where there’s practically no traffic on freeway… and that’s a rare sight in Southern California.  Did a 40 miles varying from 60-80mph and boy, so glad there’s no more unwanted massage vibrating feeling in the car.  Was really smooth.  Kudos to the Costco team.  They really did a great job and I’ve never spent this little money at Costco with such pleasant.  Go Costco!

 

I think we can put this thread to rest.  Thanks everyone for guidance and keep up my rants .

 

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