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Brakes dragging


z8987

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Using the emergency brakes shouldn't make them drag.

Brake shoes not returning could do it or brake cylinders corroded and not returning could do it...

Those are my first thoughts

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From what you say I'm guessing it's the rear brakes. I you decide it's the wheel cylinders and you want to replace them you can use the newer cylinders with some minor brake line tweaking on the back of the drums. Here's a thread I did when I replaced mine.

 

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From what you say I'm guessing it's the rear brakes. I you decide it's the wheel cylinders and you want to replace them you can use the newer cylinders with some minor brake line tweaking on the back of the drums. Here's a thread I did when I replaced mine.
 

Left rear brake is stuck. I jacked it up, the brakes are so tight I can’t turn the tire at all? I’m not sure where to start. I loosened the brake like at the cylinder to see if it would loosen up, no luck. I used a rubber mallet to see if I could break it loose, again no luck. I guess I need a big wheel puller, right?


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Before you do that, you need to back off the adjuster.  You should be able to find procedures for that on here.  The brake-drum puller should be used only after you have done that.

I can’t turn the hub to the point where I can access the adjuster.

It won’t move at all


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Did the wheel move while on the ground?

If so, get a reference of where you need the wheel and mark it then put the wheel back on and move it to the right spot.

Or you could try a long pry bar between two wheel studs. Maybe wrap them in tape to protect the threads


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Did the wheel move while on the ground?

If so, get a reference of where you need the wheel and mark it then put the wheel back on and move it to the right spot.

Or you could try a long pry bar between two wheel studs. Maybe wrap them in tape to protect the threads


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That worked. About one turn on the adjustment and off it came


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That worked. About one turn on the adjustment and off it came


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Now that I got the brake to release, what’s next? Somebody mentioned a service manual that includes brakes, which one?


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Here's what I discovered today.  The first photo below shows the master cylinder with the smaller reservoir near the front of the master cylinder.  The second photo shows an R on the front of the master cylinder. The third photo show the rear pressure line from the master cylinder going to the portion of the brake warning switch that services the front brakes. 

Whoever replaced the new master cylinder didn't know that the new master cylinder was reversed and didn't reverse the lines. 

I don't know if this is what cause my left rear wheel to lock up.  Any thoughts on this?  

 

Is it critical that the front brakes are fed by the section labeled front on the master cylinder, it seems like they wouldn't waste their time labeling the master cylinder if it wasn't necessary ? 

 

Did I see this correctly ? 

 

 

 

 

IMG_7572.jpg

IMG_7574.jpg

IMG_7576.jpg

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I would think it should function either way but should be corrected at some point. Probably not the source of you brake dragging though.

My guess is the front circuit being moved closer to the pedal has something to do with a rear brake circuit failure, but just a guess

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Looks like a P.  But it would affect both wheels, if it affected anything.  But it shouldn't cause a lock-up.  An easy check if you're not sure is to open the bleed screw, since it's hydraulic.  Releasing pressure would release the shoe.  But, that's not going to eb the source of the problem.

In the big scheme of things it's the person who understands how the system works who might use the "R" for the front brake lines.  Because they would know that it doesn't really matter.

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Does anybody know where I can get caps for the brake lines? Both female and male. Or maybe know the language I would use to search or order caps?


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Did the brake linings look OK?  When I had a similar problem in the past, the linings were swollen from leaking brake fluid.  Were the shoes fully retracted?  Only if they were not would I look for a problem in the master or slave cylinder, or whatever we're allowed to call them now.

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Very interesting that this has come up. I had asked about the newer vs the older M/C back in December and never got a definitive answer. From what you say it sounds like this has been done on your car. My guess is that you can swap the large and small reservoirs on the M/C and call it good. Of course we all have opinions.

My other series one it was suggested to swap the lines. The easiest way to do that was to take the master cylinder off and connect the lines the proper way, then turn the master cylinder slowly sound until you can get it into the booster.


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