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My new Z!


RabbitZ

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I have an issue. I checked connections for the fuse box and all is well, ready to go.

 

I bought a replacement cigarette lighter. My current lighter has 3 wires going to it: BW, B & R. My replacement lighter has only 2 connections: BW & B. Where is the Red supposed to go on the new one? I’m also having trouble removing the old one. Is it inside of some sort of housing that receives the Red and the replacement lighter sits inside?

it looks as if there is a large nut on the back.

73A703BC-0072-433C-8C68-C9FC223170B0.jpeg

Cheers!

Edited by RabbitZ
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Well, it seems I need to remove the Tach & Speedo gauges to properly replace the harness. I need a good pair of players, but I’m broke, eating PB&Js and soup. Patience. I could Dremel the Ignition Switch and the window handle shafts.

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So the White with Red stripe wire and the Black female spade are MASSIVE!!! 10-gauge? They go to the Headlight Switch; for the current in. As much as is needed.

V = IR

Looking at Thévenin's theorem, we see the equivalent DC circuit is a Voltage source in series with a resistance: I = V / R. Those fat wires are to reduce Resistance in the equivalent: I = V / R. As R goes down, Current <I : Amperes> goes up.

Power <P : Watts>) is P = IV. If the Voltage stays steady, at 14.2 V, and the current goes up, as the resistance goes down, power increases linearly.

Then the fusable link quits in the middle of an important scene, sun shining on the left side of your head, where Mr. Bond was driving along the beach to rendezvous with his secret agent…

Thévenin's theorem - https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thévenin's_theorem

Edited by RabbitZ
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Thinking about which wire to use to turn on all 4 turn signals as you lock the car with the fob and it blinks. I think it is the Green/White stripe to the Hazard Switch, but I am unsure. Would the Hazard Switch then have to be on to connect? Is there a better wire to blink, blink on unlock?

The great thing about my new harness is that it’s zip tied so access to tap into wires away from the connections.

Edited by RabbitZ
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1 hour ago, RabbitZ said:

So the White with Red stripe wire and the Black female spade are MASSIVE!!! 10-gauge? They go to the Headlight Switch; for the current in. As much as is needed.

V = IR

Looking at Thévenin's theorem, we see the equivalent DC circuit is a Voltage source in series with a resistance: I = V / R. Those fat wires are to reduce Resistance in the equivalent: I = V / R. As R goes down, Current <I : Amperes> goes up.

Power <P : Watts>) is P = IV. If the Voltage stays steady, at 14.2 V, and the current goes up, as the resistance goes down, power increases linearly.

Then the fusable link quits in the middle of an important scene, sun shining on the left side of your head, where Mr. Bond was driving along the beach to rendezvous with his secret agent…

Thévenin's theorem - https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thévenin's_theorem

Please excuse my lack of understanding.  Am I missing something or are you just doing stream of consciousness venting?  Not sure what I should be taking away from this post.  

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12 minutes ago, RabbitZ said:

F0B73CA8-B289-429C-81E6-24BBA61F8072.jpeg

If you see no holes and can't punch a screw driver through any rusted area on the interior floorboard, you're probably OK and just need to clear off the rust and put on a protective paint coating.

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8 hours ago, RabbitZ said:

So the White with Red stripe wire and the Black female spade are MASSIVE!!! 10-gauge? They go to the Headlight Switch; for the current in. As much as is needed.

V = IR

Looking at Thévenin's theorem, we see the equivalent DC circuit is a Voltage source in series with a resistance: I = V / R. Those fat wires are to reduce Resistance in the equivalent: I = V / R. As R goes down, Current <I : Amperes> goes up.

Power <P : Watts>) is P = IV. If the Voltage stays steady, at 14.2 V, and the current goes up, as the resistance goes down, power increases linearly.

Then the fusable link quits in the middle of an important scene, sun shining on the left side of your head, where Mr. Bond was driving along the beach to rendezvous with his secret agent…

Thévenin's theorem - https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thévenin's_theorem

Are you sorting out wiring circuits under the influence of something we should know about?

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8 hours ago, RabbitZ said:

Thinking about which wire to use to turn on all 4 turn signals as you lock the car with the fob and it blinks. I think it is the Green/White stripe to the Hazard Switch, but I am unsure. Would the Hazard Switch then have to be on to connect? Is there a better wire to blink, blink on unlock?

The great thing about my new harness is that it’s zip tied so access to tap into wires away from the connections.

Seems like you plan to venture pretty far out in terms of customization. Make sure you make a wiring diagram yourself so you can chase the wires down in the future, it will be hard for others to help you as you make things more custom.

Personally If I did keyless entry I would not have any beeps/blinks. I would just want to see the locks go up and down. 
 

I also would make a sub-harnesses so I can revert to the OEM harness at anytime. But thats more time and expense. 

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3 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

Personally If I did keyless entry I would not have any beeps/blinks. I would just want to see the locks go up and down.

Agreed.  I have a Viper alarm/remote that is two-way.  The remote receives a signal from the car and displays the locked/unlocked status after pressing a button.  I have it programmed for no beeps, no chirps, no lights.

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14 hours ago, RabbitZ said:

My current lighter has 3 wires going to it: BW, B & R. My replacement lighter has only 2 connections: BW & B. Where is the Red supposed to go on the new one?

The old one had Lighting in/on it thats the red wire for.. you can not use that red wire.. or buy a lighter unit with lighting..

14 hours ago, RabbitZ said:

V = IR

Btw.. thats Ohm's Law..  Georg Ohm..  Thévenin had something a like... but we (Euro's)  learned about the German Georg Ohm... (1789-1854)  Thevenin came later.. 1857-1926.

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55 minutes ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Btw.. thats Ohm's Law..  Georg Ohm..  Thévenin had something a like... but we (Euro's)  learned about the German Georg Ohm... (1789-1854)  Thevenin came later.. 1857-1926.

Yes, Ohm's Law. Where Thévenin (Voltage & Resistance in series) & Norton (Voltage & Resistance in parallel) equivalence circuits come in, in addition to Ohm's Law is to define an equivalence circuit that can be used to substitute a circuit with the equivalence circuit.

This helps to decompose portions of a complex circuit. These are related to the action of Kirchhoff's laws, regarding current in and current out. Without these additions to Ohm's Law, circuit decomposition would not be possible. So the headlight sub-circuit can have an equivalence circuit, with low resistance due to the fat wire cross-section (White/Red and Black).

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5 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

Personally If I did keyless entry I would not have any beeps/blinks. I would just want to see the locks go up and down. 

I had not considered this. I think it’s a great idea!

Edited by RabbitZ
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14 hours ago, RabbitZ said:

So the White with Red stripe wire and the Black female spade are MASSIVE!!! 10-gauge?

Japanese car wires are like in euro.. wires are in mm²  the schematic in colour talkes about 12 gauge cable.. i guess thats around 10-16mm²

found a nice color diagram of the wiring for you...

 

Ace King 240z New Wiring Diagram 2020.pdf (ace240z.com)

Edited by dutchzcarguy
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8 minutes ago, RabbitZ said:

I’m guessing it’s 20mm

I would guess 21 mm as the 20 is very rare to be used.. (but not imposible.. get a caliper (micrometer?) to measure the with of the nut!) 

I often say: if you have a wrench: 8-9-10-12-14-17-21-24 you can take a 240z completely apart... (almost..)

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1 hour ago, dutchzcarguy said:

I would guess 21 mm as the 20 is very rare to be used.. (but not imposible.. get a caliper (micrometer?) to measure the with of the nut!) 

I often say: if you have a wrench: 8-9-10-12-14-17-21-24 you can take a 240z completely apart... (almost..)

Well 21mm was too small. I bought a pair of channel lock pliers and got the lighter nut free. I’ve now replaced the cig lighter, keeping the illumination light, as well as removed the Tach & Speedo to replace the harness. Well on my way to swapping the dash back in! See if she starts.

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2 hours ago, RabbitZ said:

I’m waiting until O’Reilly’s opens at 7:30 to get a 20mm wrench to get the backing nut off the lighter housing. I’m guessing it’s 20mm as the largest wrench I have is 19mm which is too small.

You should never guess. Know the size by measuring. I use a caliper.

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