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My new Z!


RabbitZ

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17 hours ago, RabbitZ said:

So the White with Red stripe wire and the Black female spade are MASSIVE!!! 10-gauge? They go to the Headlight Switch; for the current in. As much as is needed.

V = IR

Looking at Thévenin's theorem, we see the equivalent DC circuit is a Voltage source in series with a resistance: I = V / R. Those fat wires are to reduce Resistance in the equivalent: I = V / R. As R goes down, Current <I : Amperes> goes up.

Power <P : Watts>) is P = IV. If the Voltage stays steady, at 14.2 V, and the current goes up, as the resistance goes down, power increases linearly.

Then the fusable link quits in the middle of an important scene, sun shining on the left side of your head, where Mr. Bond was driving along the beach to rendezvous with his secret agent…

Thévenin's theorem - https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thévenin's_theorem

The Z runs full current through the light switch, rather than using a relay for operating the lights. There is a plug and play add on harness available that includes a relay, so the current for the lights doesn’t pass through the switch. Using the add on harness will lower the current load through the switch, and the headlights will be as bright as they are supposed to be.

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3 minutes ago, RabbitZ said:

Yes, I do not have a caliper. I got channel lock pliers, instead, and got the new lighter installed. Yay!

A small brass machinists caliper is cheap, and handy for quick measurements.

 

image.jpeg

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I’ve completely removed the old harness and swapped the Ammeter over. I replaced the cigarette lighter.

Am preparing to add 1) GPS and 2) Keyless locks. I plan to tap the Common 12V wire out of the fuse box (Blue/White wire to the cigarette lighter), to power both add-ons. I’ll also add 2 2-terminal parallel connectors with 12v & ground and attach to each item’s power harness.

I’ll also add 2 2-terminal right-angle connectors to Keyless locks for Left door and Right door, at the control unit. Left will have a female connector at the control unit and Right will have a male connector. Then I’ll run the harness lines to far Left & Right, with connectors on that end to plug into the actual door harness wires, again with 2-terminal connector. This is for a total of 6 connectors and a little wire. Progress…

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13 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

Personally If I did keyless entry I would not have any beeps/blinks. I would just want to see the locks go up and down. 

Just to keep the option: Is there a single wire that would activate all 4 turn signals with the hazard switch OFF?

Otherwise I’d need to power all 4 turn signals from a single wire. Would that require diodes, so it doesn’t establish a bridge circuit between the 2 sides?

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I’ve tapped on an illumination light wire for the clock. I managed to pull off the power lead to the glovebox light - I will resolver it on. All connectors look good. The new harness is installed. Now to add the GPS and Keyless locks.

1671B3B9-3D14-48CF-9BC5-58880CF20463.jpeg

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2 hours ago, RabbitZ said:

Otherwise I’d need to power all 4 turn signals from a single wire. Would that require diodes, so it doesn’t establish a bridge circuit between the 2 sides?

Very interesting! This keyless system (InstallGear) does use diodes to activate Left and Right Turn Signals! Look at the violet wire harness. I’m looking for install info for my FICBOX system.

75EE4CEA-9FC5-4AB9-8628-853A714EF265.jpeg

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1 hour ago, RabbitZ said:

I’ve tapped on an illumination light wire for the clock. I managed to pull off the power lead to the glovebox light - I will resolver it on. All connectors look good. The new harness is installed. Now to add the GPS and Keyless locks.

Details on the GPS you're installing?

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3 hours ago, RabbitZ said:

Ahh! My keyless lock control module has 2 brown wires for parking lights so the diodes are internal and I’ll hook a brown wire to each side T/S.

Here’s my plan. I was able to shake loose $33 to buy electrical connectors & wire. My plan is to extend the harness with connectors to the FICBOX Keyless lock control module.

Heres the control module wiring diagram for FICBOX.

E229BFEF-9305-4A99-8FDA-714D24BD6206.jpeg

First I bought 2 connectors for power and ground [1]. I’ll use 1 for the GPS and 1 for keyless control module. The wiring at each device is Red for power 12V and Black for ground.

I also bought Black and Blue/White wire to extend the harness using taps with the correct harness colors (L/W & B ) times 2.

From the Keyless control module, Pink is Horn and 2 Brown wires for each T/S circuit. I bought a 3-pin latching connector [2] and wire for Horn (Pink) and 2 T/S (Brown), keeping the Keyless colors, rather than the harness colors. I’ll tap the Horn and 2 T/S wires with these wires. The module will plug into the 3-pin for these features.

From the module, I’m not using Green (Window up) or Blue (trunk).

For the lock actuators, look at Figure C  in the upper right corner.

111BD6C7-D779-4257-97DD-35748E11BFE2.jpeg

There are 6 wires at the module: Orange, White, Yellow, Orange/Black, White/Black & Yellow/Black. According to the programming diagram Figure C, I’ll choose to have Orange & Orange/Black be disconnected, while Yellow & Yellow/Black are to ground. I’ll tap into the module’s Black wire with those 2 Yellow grounds, such that it will not extend into the harness.

This leaves White & White/Black for actuator control, which is shared between both doors.

At the actuators, we have 2 wires: Green & Blue. I’ve just confirmed that Green locks while Blue unlocks.

At the control module (see Figure C) White is closing signal (Locking) while White/Black is opening signal (Unlocking). I’ve bought 3 2-pin parallel latching connectors [3], 1 at the module and 1 for each door.

I also bought Light Blue and Light Green wire. I plan to run Light Green and Light Blue wire in the harness, from the module to the driver’s door. I’ll tap those wires and run more wire over to the passenger door. I’ll attach a female connector at all 3 ends: module L door & R door.

Green over Blue  = Lock over Unlock.

At the module, I’ll attach the module White wires to 1 parallel male connector: Lock over Unlock is White over White/Black.

Finally I’ll add a male connector to each actuator’s wiring: Green over Blue.

So the harness and the doors will have Green over Blue at these 5 connector ends, male & female, leaving the male connector end from the control module (White over White/Black.

There will be 3 connectors from the module’s wiring harness: 1 2-pin: power & ground, 1 3-pin: horn & 2 T/S and 1 2-pin: lock & unlock.

Then hit the code button and make sure the FOBs work right.

—-

My question is do y’all think my color choices and design work well?

- Blue/White for 12V

- Black for Ground

- Pink for Horn

- Brown for T/S, both L & R

- Light Green (unlock) to doors

- Light Blue (lock) to doors

—-

[1] 2-pin latching connector - http://vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/73

[2] 3-pin latching connector - http://vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/74

[3] 2-pin latching parallel connector - http://vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/132

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9 hours ago, RabbitZ said:

Here’s my plan. I was able to shake loose $33 to buy electrical connectors & wire.

Sorry... but i find this UNBELIEVABLE..  Your giving away your last penny.. and then some... on stuff...??? You should do the important things like "how bad is the rust...can this car even be restored!! ??? "  But also hat's off that you can live that way..  I'm on a budget also because of disabillity but i never could live like that.

 

HOW MANY people on this site agree with me when i say this resto is never going to complete? (Hit the agree button)   You must do the important things first!! what if you discover later on the bodywork is very bad? (When is see the things people say about the firm that sold you this car i get the creeeeeepppsss!! they seem real scammers!) I believe you want someone else to restore the rust/ do the welding, has he seen this car and took a good look and any idea about the gigantic costs?

 

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35 minutes ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Sorry... but i find this UNBELIEVABLE..  Your giving away your last penny.. and then some... on stuff...??? You should do the important things like "how bad is the rust...can this car even be restored!! ??? "  But also hat's off that you can live that way..  I'm on a budget also because of disabillity but i never could live like that.

 

HOW MANY people on this site agree with me when i say this resto is never going to complete? (Hit the agree button)   You must do the important things first!! what if you discover later on the bodywork is very bad? (When is see the things people say about the firm that sold you this car i get the creeeeeepppsss!! they seem real scammers!) I believe you want someone else to restore the rust/ do the welding, has he seen this car and took a good look and any idea about the gigantic costs?

 

Well thanks for your input on my plan to extend the harness for GPS & Keyless locks. I guess. I will deal with rust at the appropriate time. For me. Is it alright if I have different priorities?

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1 hour ago, RabbitZ said:

Is it alright if I have different priorities?

Ofcourse it is alright.. i only advice you to keep costs low as possible till your absolutely sure that the car is worth al the money you put into it.

We all saw what holes are in your car and i read somewere that you need to hire someone to do the welding... THAT does not come cheap!! 💲💲

Like other people here i advice you not to take up a restoration on a old car with +/-100% loaned money and practically no budget.. 

But i will shut up now.. 🙊

Always willing to help where i can! 🙂

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14 hours ago, RabbitZ said:

My question is do y’all think my color choices and design work well?

- Blue/White for 12V

- Black for Ground

- Pink for Horn

- Brown for T/S, both L & R

- Light Green (unlock) to doors

- Light Blue (lock) to doors

Alright I found a bit more. The T/S Switch has a connector that is higher up the steering column sub-harness. This connector has the wiring for front T/S (GR <left> & GB <right>), rear T/S (WR <left> & WB <right>) &  Horn (GB). If I assume at either the Hazard Switch or T/S Switch that GB is connected to WB and GR is connected to WR, then applying power to GB should turn on all <right> turn lights and applying power to GR should turn on all <left> turn lights.

So for the 3-pin connector of the Keyless control module with Pink and 2 Browns should connect to these wires above the T/S connector. I have already tapped the correct wires in the sub-harness.

I am looking for a wire at the steering column sub-harness with either Battery 12V or Ammeter 12V for constant power. I’d rather NOT tap into a larger wire. I may tap a line into the LW (Blue/White) at the cigarette lighter sun-harness and route to the steering column sub-harness for device power. Then proceed to tap this new power line, as needed. Suggestions?

Which color at one of IGNSW, HWWSW or TSHBSW for 12V power?

- 12V (???)

- Black for Ground

- Pink for Horn (GB) connects to G/B out of terminal 18 of T/S high 6-pin connector (only 5 used)

- Brown for T/S, both L & R (GB & GR) terminals 13 & 14 of T/S high 6-pin connector (only 5 used)

- Light Green (unlock) to doors

- Light Blue (lock) to doors

 

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1 hour ago, RabbitZ said:

Which color at one of IGNSW, HWWSW or TSHBSW for 12V power?

I think I will run a 12V Blue/White wire from the lighter sub-harness. Done.

I have all 5 taps installed.

12V power from Common out of fuse box, at the cigarette lighter sun-harness: Blue/White. Tapped with Blue/White wire to steering column sub-harness area. Wire’s other end will power GPS with ground (Black wire) in a 2-pin connector. This Blue/White extension wire will be tapped for the Keyless locks control module power.

3660EE39-3D5F-4147-904E-127BE88F3637.jpeg

Ground tapped off of Black ground wire in steering column sub-harness. Like 12V power above, the Black wire’s other end, off the ground tap will join Blue/White in the 2-pin connector to ground the GPS. Again another tap will lead to the Keyless locks control module’s power/ground 2-pin connector.

E258720D-F241-4B88-B754-B7C6350A8682.jpeg

Horn (Pink at control module) will tap off of the correct Green/Black wire, from the T/S Switch. 2 Brown T/S wires will tap into the correct Green/Black and Green/Red from the T/S Switch.

C22901C2-51D1-4EC3-994E-30029EBBB1D8.jpeg

Note: my GPS & Keyless locks control modules will fit perfectly ion the metal plate between the Tach & Speedo. The bottom device is the GPS with power (Red) and ground (Black) on the bottomest right under the Dimmer rheostat cable. The top device is the Keyless locks control module with its Red antenna running up on the left. A perfect fit!

80C7B534-85D5-4511-900C-5AE28A2CB235.jpeg

All is well.

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19 hours ago, RabbitZ said:

Yes I got this kit: 

Optimus GB100M 4G LTE - Easy Install on Car's Battery GPS Tracker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SSWY8SH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_CX3TCZYT2CCSYJK2MM01?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Interesting tracker.  Are you concerned about the car being stolen after you get it running?  I'd probably go with alarms and disabling devices that don't require a monthly fee like the GPS unit you're installing.  Lots of options.

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5 minutes ago, psdenno said:

Interesting tracker.  Are you concerned about the car being stolen after you get it running?  I'd probably go with alarms and disabling devices that don't require a monthly fee like the GPS unit you're installing.  Lots of options.

Interesting. I am concerned about theft. Your alarm suggestions? Disabling device? Product links, please.

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48 minutes ago, RabbitZ said:

Interesting. I am concerned about theft. Your alarm suggestions? Disabling device? Product links, please.

A google search will bring up lots of choices if you want to explore alarms and disabling devices.  My guess is that you've done that already.  

My favorite disabling device is removal of the distributor rotor.  Few casual thieves carry a rotor for a 50 year old car when they go car "shopping".

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36 minutes ago, psdenno said:

A google search will bring up lots of choices if you want to explore alarms and disabling devices.  My guess is that you've done that already.  

Could anyone recommend their favorite alarm system, please?

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39 minutes ago, RabbitZ said:

Could anyone recommend their favorite alarm system, please?

I suggest holding off on the alarm since your car won't even start right now.  Get the basic electrical system (and their Gremlins) sorted and working so you have a baseline before adding additional accessories and with it more complexity. 

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1 hour ago, psdenno said:

A google search will bring up lots of choices if you want to explore alarms and disabling devices.  My guess is that you've done that already.  

My favorite disabling device is removal of the distributor rotor.  Few casual thieves carry a rotor for a 50 year old car when they go car "shopping".

I am looking at possibly getting this 1-way Viper system [1]. It seems I can use with the door lock actuators I have from Zone Tech. The Viper would replace the FICBOX lock control I have. The differences between Viper and FICBOX are:

FICBOX has everything Viper does. The alarm is just the siren. With my Optimus GPS tracker with the $12/mo fee, I can setup a “fence” and if the car passes that boundary I get alerted.

The Viper has the following features that the FICBOX does not:

a) DoubleGuard® Shock Sensor to alert if car is moved

b) Failsafe® Starter Kill to prevent hotwiring

c) siren with louder sound

The last issue is LEO tracking. I have yet to find a link to any LoJack produce but evidently this tracking system can be shared with LEOs in the case of theft. Anyone gotta link for LoJack?

I appreciate any advice!

[1] Viper 3105V - https://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_51761_Viper_3105V.aspx?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=Product_Feed&utm_campaign=google_shopping_Price_Comparison&gclid=CjwKCAiA9tyQBhAIEiwA6tdCrO5XaJeOpVSBmbkM4ytYlxq0rgzlX-wBdqm1Wr6KLXcnDj9QATJiJBoCVHsQAvD_BwE

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