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Nikki Fuel Pump Rebuild


VaCat33

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Hello

Are rebuild kits still available for rebuilding OEM Nikki fuel pump…or are any vendors out there doing this?

I searched the old threads but they are all pretty dated. Thought I would try to get some fresh input.
 

Thanks

Jim

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16 hours ago, VaCat33 said:

Hello

Are rebuild kits still available for rebuilding OEM Nikki fuel pump…or are any vendors out there doing this?

I searched the old threads but they are all pretty dated. Thought I would try to get some fresh input.
 

Thanks

Jim

 

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AZ

thanks. I did see this article. I am reluctant to use 50 year old rubber parts, even if from NOS unit. I was really hoping somebody out there was making a current rebuild kit. If not, I might have to consider your option.

Jim

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Hello Again,

I thought I would let everybody know That JDM parts has a rebuild kit for the Nikki 271070 fuel pump. At $125 it is not cheap. I confirmed with the company that the kit will work on all Nikki 271070 fuel pumps, regardless of the car model (as indicated in the article in the post above the 271070 pump was used in several different Datsun models.)

Here is a link to the rebuild kit.

https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/nikki-fuel-pump-rebuilt-kit-for-prince-ha30-fairlady-s30-skyline-gc10-with-l20-l24-engine?variant=39616128811117

Happy Holidays 

Jim

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2 hours ago, VaCat33 said:

Hello Again,

I thought I would let everybody know That JDM parts has a rebuild kit for the Nikki 271070 fuel pump. At $125 it is not cheap. I confirmed with the company that the kit will work on all Nikki 271070 fuel pumps, regardless of the car model (as indicated in the article in the post above the 271070 pump was used in several different Datsun models.)

Here is a link to the rebuild kit.

https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/nikki-fuel-pump-rebuilt-kit-for-prince-ha30-fairlady-s30-skyline-gc10-with-l20-l24-engine?variant=39616128811117

Happy Holidays 

Jim

The rebuild kit is cheap compared to finding yourself getting a tow truck after one of the recent aftermarket fuel pumps fail. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a brief update on the rebuild. In the original article on how to rebuild your Nikki fuel pump it discusses how to replace the rubber oil seal in the lower pump housing. As you can see in the photo, The seal went into the opening in the lower housing and was secured by a retaining ring which snapped into the opening.

the rebuild kit form JDM uses a new design. The oil seal fits snuggly over the opening in the lower housing and then is secured by a retaining ring which is held in place by the pump spring.

Jim

 

6A548D0D-0393-4B62-908A-FEB21921B950.jpeg

371FBC21-BEDF-44D5-93F7-8CAD25E9B6C6.jpeg

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I have a question regarding these old pumps, i got a 50 year old pump on my 240z and i asked myself.. now in this pandemic i use my cars less and less and the 240z starts right up and then after a few sec's suddenly stops.. i then need to clear the carb needle valves (just blow some air as the carbs are vented to the airbox)  and the fuel gets in the carb and the car fires right up.. (after a few weeks same story again..)   Can it be that i just need to change my fuelpump.. does anyone know what the pressure should be of such an old mech.pump? I think to replace the pump anyways as it's antique!  Or are my carb needle valves getting old and need new ones?  If i drive the car once a week it 's no problem... also asked myself if that damn "good" fuel 🙄 we have these days is the culprit? (no lubrication in the needle valves.)

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11 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

I'd also pull the floats and needle valves and clean everything.

I once cleaned the valves and they were not even dirty or so.. i think they have a bit of wear..  I will check the fuelpressure when i can and then i know what parts i need to replace, Thanks Mark!

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1 hour ago, Patcon said:

the bowls are just drying out

 

34 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

Removing a float bowl top and having a peek inside would confirm fuel evaporation.

Yeah i did that last month but last week i needed the car (after a stand still of 3 weeks.)  and it fired right up and after about 5 seconds of running on the choke it died.. i suspected the bowls were just emptied. Did not look at the bowls just got me some air from my compressor and bluw them open.. then the car fired right up and i was able to drive it for 10 min. without any problem! 

So i think that there was some fuel left in the carbs.. but the pump could not fill the bowls again.. As i have a few new pumps and no valves (new) i think i just put in a new pump and be done.. sorry for getting a bit.. a lot.. off topic here!

 

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  • 2 months later...

Rebuild completed. See attached photos. I had to find another original after stripping the threads in one of the screw holes. I used the cap from my original since it was better. Vapor blasted and then reassembled using the JDM parts rebuild kit. I got fresh inlet and outlet from a GMB replacement pump. Found some fresh correct zinc coated screws on eBay. Once things warm up, I can get it installed on car.

FYI…for those of you considering this, The internals in the replacement pumps are pretty much the same as the parts you get in the rebuild kit. You can save yourself just shy of $100 by using the parts from a replacement pump.

Jim

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844E3619-504A-424C-A91B-662F36698391.jpeg

14717AAA-03CC-4B33-9313-918BDAA56E3C.jpeg

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Nice! I rebuilt and sold 10 or so of these over the years.  I used Nos other Nikki pump internals on mine (most cheap off ebay)  The screws were perfect on the NOS.  Then I sent the inlet and outlet off to zinc, then vapor blasted.  

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On 3/14/2022 at 10:53 AM, VaCat33 said:

FYI…for those of you considering this, The internals in the replacement pumps are pretty much the same as the parts you get in the rebuild kit. You can save yourself just shy of $100 by using the parts from a replacement pump.

Jim

So - it seems from all reports that today's replacement pumps all fail prematurely.  Is that because of poor quality internals, and if so, why would someone want to use them to rebuild their pump?

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Legitimate question. All I can say is that the internal parts in the replacement pump appeared to be the same as the internals provided in the only rebuild kit that I know of. The rebuild kit cost $125…a replacement GMB pump cost $27. 
Individual call I guess.

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Posted (edited)

The problem I found with the modern replacement pumps was that the valves (inlet valve pulling fuel from the tank and the outlet pushing fuel to the fuel rail/carbs) would not seal properly.  Because of that, it couldn't create a strong vacuum to pull the fuel from the tank.  Typically they would work for a few days before failing.  Fortunately, the size and hole pattern on the aftermarket one I was trying matched the size and hole pattern of the OE Nikki pump that failed for me  (the old Nikki pump rubber diaphram became old and brittle and cracked) but the valves were still good and working.  I took the bottom half (containing the rubber diaphram) from the aftermarket pump and the upper half of my OE Nikki and mated them together and it seems to work well. 

Edited by 240Znomad
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1 hour ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Looks like a ballbearing (in this pic) left from the 271070 number... is it for lubrication? or what is that? i see it for the first time.. does anyone know ?

844E3619-504A-424C-A91B-662F36698391.jpeg

 

That ball retains the pump rocker arm pivot pin. There is one on the opposite side as well. They are pressed into detents in the lower housing to retain the pin, and are not removeable. Mine has a small oil leak from the side you see in the picture.

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Based upon foosman’s commets about replacement fuel pump quality and the experience related by Duffy in his post, I took another look at the internal parts in the replacement pump.

The rubber gaskets all seemed to be a similar quality. The valves in the replacement pump were, IMHO, of lesser quality. The metal used seemed less durable and they had plastic parts. This might account for the early failure of duffy’s pump and supports what foosman stated.

Luckily, The valves in the rebuild kit I bought were more like the originals.

So look closely at the internal parts, especially the valves, if rebuilding your fuel pump. Hope this helps.

Jim

 

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