Jump to content

IGNORED

What is your (most) valuable "made it myself" PART! and most valuable lesson learned about Z-cars!


Recommended Posts

21 hours ago, Jeff Berk said:

Any chance that you have pictures of the work in progress?

In 2007 i did'nt have a smartphone so.. no, sadly not.. i do remember to show it halfway to a friend it was in clamps while the glue dried, and i told him: here i show you my wheel.. just that when you see it when it's ready you believe me when i say i made it myself..

If you want a wheel like that.. about 600 euro , i make you a new one from an old wheel.. (if i can stil buy that mahogany wood in a super dry state.)

It's made of 12 parts 6 being on front are hollow.. about 6.3mm you need a mill for that..  At the time i asked myself.. buy a wheel or a mill.. the mill was chosen.. i can use it more often and.. make my own wheel!

I could make you a write up how to make a wheel? ... it's a lot of work, took me about a week*.  And a bit more because of the 7-8 layers of lacquer! (I seriously/.. lost count.)

* As i'm a bit disabled due to accidents at work and privatly i can work/hobby a few hours a day at max...

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd (and others I would think) love to see a writeup on how you made it. I can access a fairly complete woodshop with a CNC. 

A fairly detailed step by step done a few installments at a time would be great. I'd have to find a donner wheel first since I don't want to sacrifice my current wheel in case something goes wrong.

Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, Jeff Berk said:

I'd have to find a donner wheel first

Yeah.. at the time i had and stil have 2 spare ones..

A write up?  Yes can be aranged  her it go's  ( if something is not clear due to the language diffs you tell me..

Pff.. hope to remember it all hahaha..

(not gonna use any translator aid..)

First you buy some nice wood very dry.. not dry.. leave it in the neagbourhood of the heating in your home but not to close for a year at least (resanable dry wood to start..)  i used mahogany..

You take a board and put 6 pieces of wood very nice cut in 60 degree angles (2 x 30 degree is that) in a cirkel, wood has to be at least 6cm in diam. and 2 cm high (inches.. you figgur it out haha) yea figure or so (i say boejuuuhh 😉 )  In the middle a piece of same hight of wood on ther you put the woodmill centering on..  you need a few different wood cutting tools for your mill, one is a round head of 6,5mm. and one with a round curve of about.. 2,2-2,5cm?  Last one first you mill the 6 pieces into a round part ones inside once outside. This you do twice (as you need a front and back part.. )  One you have to do the inner 6,5mm milling first, then turn it around and do the outside part.  ow yeah... you do NOT mil right through the whole dept from the wood, leave a mm or so otherwise you'll see some flying parts.. not good..  After milling the 2 ..iside,outside you take of the round parts (mark the parts that you know where what part came from and go's back..) Now you need some glues and clamps..  you glue the wood with woodglue (duuhh 😉 ) to the next part of wood and the whole top cirkel with 2 component glue to the top of the wheel steel ring (of about 6,3mm thick) (the wheel is cleared from the fake wood and sprayed black Satin.) You do the glueing all at ones so wood to wood and wood to steel ring all at ones. (so be sure that every part fits PERFECT before starting the glue work.) After it dryed well u can sand it.. Now you have to make the fingers in the wheel at the back.. use some old wheel as a example and draw lines on your wheel where the finger-deep spots go.. then you take a powerfile (i got the simple black&decker) and you make the deep part in the middle and finally the 2 sides of each low part..  then you need a LOT ot sanding to make it all smoooooóóóótthh.. 😉  )

then.. paint..paint..paint..paint..paint..paint..paint.. it with laquer and don't forget to sand inbetween..

Use some fine grain wood and it MUST BE VERY DRY !!!   I used as i sayd some mahogany amd it was dry but i dried it for half a year in my livingroom near the heating.

And to end this..

tell me ... honestly Jeff, you couldn't believe i made that wheel myself huh?  Hihihi.. I have met more people that can't believe it.. or question it..  I can't help it... i got two right hands (as they say overhere.)  (Meaning a handy guy..)

The bad thing is i don't have much energy, I aways say, i can do it (almost)  all, but i can't do it (at) all.. meaning i know how to... but don't have the energy to do it all.. At times it makes me very sad.. today for example i saw a nice 260z for sale.. (complete but in parts)  I would love to buy and make it a nice car.. but i have lots of other jobs that need to be done first.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the pointers. I found several sets of instructions on the internet, each with their own variation on the techniques. I ordered a donner steering wheel off of e-bay and will try and source some wood for it from Woodcraft, a chain on this side of the Atlantic that specializes in wood crafting tools and has a great selection of interesting hardwoods. I'll likely create a steering wheel out of some scrap wood first so I don't make as many errors on the expensive wood. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Jeff Berk said:

I'll likely create a steering wheel out of some scrap wood first so I don't make as many errors on the expensive wood. 

Jeff, have a look at Baltic Birch Plywood, very interesting effects can be made with it. Unlike other plywoods it's a densely packed with no voids, high quality material.

 

Baltic-Birch-Marine-Plywood-cclc.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Jeff Berk said:

I'll likely create a steering wheel out of some scrap wood first so I don't make as many errors

Maybe you have or know someone with fire wood..  they sometimes have wood of fruit trees.. thats also a fine wood to work with, and most times it's already dry.

BTW... do i need to change the (name of the) topic to: how do we make a steeringwheel yourselfs?  😉 

(Also i thought about it to make a bent in some of my walnuttree branches so i can later on use the round parts for a new wheel in my almost restored 280zx!..:omg:  )

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/20/2021 at 3:28 AM, grannyknot said:

Jeff, have a look at Baltic Birch Plywood,

To test it can be used.. but for real use is birch much to soft.. use some oak from a old bookcase or so. (and if the test comes out great you can use the wheel!)

I used mahogany.  also for a gearlever knob.  I made it on a wood lathe of a friend.

Halfway.. lots of coats 

foto's2007 061.jpg

Ready..

foto's2007 092.jpg

The 10 stood for 10 years of restoring haha.. btw.. till this day i don't know where that coin comes from, have a good look and tell me .. is it a American Dime?? uh?? 

foto's2007 096.jpgfoto's2007 093.jpg

It's in my 240z from 2007 till today and functioning OK! Used a coin on top, and the lower part (with the threads) of a old knob.. (It's inside you can't see it.)

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm looking into stabilized wood (see https://blog.woodturnerscatalog.com/2014/02/wood-stabilizing-v-2/ )

I found a piece of 20 year or so old black walnut that I might cut up and stabilize with clear epoxy. I'm taking photographs and will post the procedures in the future unless it is a complete fail.

I plan on generally following the instructions posted on an MG forum.

https://www.mgexp.com/article/diy-wood-steering-wheel-part-1.329 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

That MG forum has a nice write up and pics of making a wheel! 

I remember that is made 12 pieces and glued them later on the steel ring.. Now i would glue the wood first and make the circle with help of the wheel itself then you know that it will fit it later on.. first make the inner cut in the wood for the steel-ring of your wheel and then turn it up side down and make the inside and outside round of the front and later another one with the rear part of the wheel. remember that the steel ring lays only inside the front ring then you have enough material to make the "fingers"in the rear part.. (copy them from an old wheel)

Hope to see some pics of your work!

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

 btw.. till this day i don't know where that coin comes from, have a good look and tell me .. is it a American Dime?? uh?? 

Nope. Not an American dime.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

image.pngimage.png

Helvetica... Switserland (swiss)  coin of 10 rappen!  I must have brought it home in 1986 when i was in Zürich/Regensdorf the home of Studer-ReVox! 

Thanks racer, you made me look/google for the 10 cent coin.. and this one came up..

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Sub category. What's the most valuable lesson I've learned for my Z.

There's at least 3 different length oil dipsticks for our cars. Make darn sure you have the right one for your motor or you'll overfill it and have a drip after running the car. I did this and had a drip or two off my oil pump until I figured out I had a 2.8 stick in a 2.4 motor. Drained about half a quart and my garage floor is a dry as my dogs food. 

  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • dutchzcarguy changed the title to What is your (most) valuable "made it myself" PART! and most valuable lesson learned about Z-cars!
Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Sub category. What's the most valuable lesson I've learned for my Z.

I changed the topic.. haha

@siteunseen so a 260z has a diff. stick then a 240z or are there diff 240z sticks? never had that.. i remember that i had 3 the same in my stash once but were exactly the same length and looked also the same. Where from 240z cars..

My valuable lesson on Z cars is that... there are very few cars as reliable as a (good serviced) z car!!  😉  (Sometimes i think that there is no longer a firm that makes a GOOD CAR!!  All that electronic sh*t is going to make them all unreliable!  (I'm an (old) electronics guy myself i know what can and will !!!  go wrong haha)  Stuffed with computers.. bah!!  I always say: a pig's rear is smarter than a computer, it knows when it has to go to the "bathroom" haha.. it takes just one (!!) "0"or "1" to mess up the whole program in a computer and that will stop your car...again! 😡

Edited by dutchzcarguy
  • Like 1
  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

From what I've learned the 240's stick number starts with an E, 280's with a P. Good thread I found below with the different numbers and possible receiver tube lengths. 

And I agree on newer cars. They suck for us DIY mechanics. The newest car I've ever owned is my 2000 or 2001 Camry, can't remember what the title says but I list it as a 2000 on my insurance. I did buy a brand new 2009 lawnmower that cost as much as a car. LOL 

engine oil capacity - Engine & Drivetrain - The Classic Zcar Club

 

  • Haha 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

After causing a race DNF and a lot of money, I learned that the crank damper bolt needs Loctite.  It can and sometimes will come loose and destroy the engine.  I also learned that stock L-Jetronic EFI does not play well with an aftermarket cam.  If you want stock EFI, stick with the stock cam.  If you want a performance cam, go with carbs or a modern EFI.

  • Like 2
  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

I changed the topic.. haha

@siteunseen so a 260z has a diff. stick then a 240z or are there diff 240z sticks? never had that.. i remember that i had 3 the same in my stash once but were exactly the same length and looked also the same. Where from 240z cars..

My valuable lesson on Z cars is that... there are very few cars as reliable as a (good serviced) z car!!  😉  (Sometimes i think that there is no longer a firm that makes a GOOD CAR!!  All that electronic sh*t is going to make them all unreliable!  (I'm an (old) electronics guy myself i know what can and will !!!  go wrong haha)  Stuffed with computers.. bah!!  I always say: a pig's rear is smarter than a computer, it knows when it has to go to the "bathroom" haha.. it takes just one (!!) "0"or "1" to mess up the whole program in a computer and that will stop your car...again! 😡

Thanks for changing the topic. Maybe you or me might start a new thread on Z secrets that only some can pass on to us. There's a few that I found by reading from my day 1 that are like writing the oil change date on the new filter with a Sharpie. Simple, but took a reminder to see the light.

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Jeff G 78 said:

After causing a race DNF and a lot of money, I learned that the crank damper bolt needs Loctite.  It can and sometimes will come loose and destroy the engine.  I also learned that stock L-Jetronic EFI does not play well with an aftermarket cam.  If you want stock EFI, stick with the stock cam.  If you want a performance cam, go with carbs or a modern EFI.

On my 2nd go round with the 240 I used that Loctite that's blue. It's not as strong but from all I read it's great for regular vibrations.

The gel stick is the way to go on bolt threads. 

 

images.jpeg.jpg

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I used that Loctite that's blue.

Me to, funny enough it's in a red little bottle overhere.. I use a very little drop on many bolts big and small. Never had a loose bolt ever.

10 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Thanks for changing the topic. Maybe you or me might start a new thread on Z secrets that only some can pass on to us.

1st, your welcome Cliff, and 2nd, most z-secrets are in the serv. manual haha..  The biggest job is to get people to READ it..  instead of skimping..

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

funny enough it's in a red little bottle overhere..

Same in the US and I never understood that.  I have a bottle of Red and a bottle of Blue and I always have to take the cap off to figure out which is which.  What genius at Loctite decided to use a red bottle for both strengths?

Edited by Jeff G 78
  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.