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Another Suspension Rebuild


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what do you have planned for the half shafts?

I was thinking of just changing the u-joints and boots. Hopefully the shafts will still be balanced afterwards. I did stamp the flanges to get it back in the same orientation.
CV axles would be great, but pricey.
Open to $uggestions….


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I attempted to change my u-joints out and messed up the balance so bad on a set of half-shafts that they are pretty much trash.... Its uneconomical to replace the ujoints i used with OEM ones, and get them balanced. To get them balanced in the Bay Area I was quoted at $100 per shaft. I was able to find someone selling a complete suspension setup for $100, included the rear end, and used the shafts from there...

Maybe just clean them and paint?

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I fought a balance problem in one of the three shafts some years back. Ultimately, I found that the half shafts don't spin fast enough to create a vibration. My vibration was in the prop shaft. It spins 3 - 4 time faster than the half shafts.

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After seeing that rubber tension rod bushing split, even before driving the car, I ordered and installed the plastic/aluminum bearing kit and rubber bushings. Seems to be be a lot better design, and hopefully firm up the suspension and steering response.
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I put these on mine and it sorted all kinds of steering issues under braking - especially the judder and wonder. It introduced zero discernible harshness. You won’t look back.
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Okay, after checking the u-joints in the half shafts, I didn't feel any sloppiness, so I'm going to just leave them. They're marked NSK/Torrington/83 (year?)/Koyo/KC1819D, and they're probably better quality than what's available out there now.  I think new kits have different thickness c-clips to get joints centered precisely, which I'm not setup to do (balancing).   I ordered new Timken bearings (NSK) for my rear axles and was kind of disappointed in how they felt out the box.  They just didn't feel as smooth as I expected, and after cleaning up the old Nachi bearings, the new ones didn't feel that much better, but I installed the new ones anyway.  I talked to a friend of mine who vintage races a 240Z, I he's had bad luck with new bearings also, and says he usually tries to use old ones.

So, I'll be replacing the inner and out arm bushings with new rubber ones, and pivot pins.  Mustache bar bushings look great, so I don't want go through the hassle of replacing them, and the new ones are poly anyway.  Installing a TechnoVersions differential mount also.  Might take the differential to my go to my diff guy and see what he thinks of how it "feels," maybe replace the side seals.  Clean everything up and put back together.

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38 minutes ago, sfm6s524 said:

after checking the u-joints in the half shafts, I didn't feel any sloppiness, so I'm going to just leave them

Pop the little screw out, put a Zerk fitting in and grease them up.  They'll probably last another 50,000 miles.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I'm back from a trip to Wyoming, need to get moving on this.  Got everything cleaned up, ready to bolt in.  Mounted the differential so I could measure and cut the TC mount bushing.  I tried a few sockets to stick between the mount and diff housing to get a measurement with about an 1/8" gap.  Using new front lower mount.  Then I busted that little plastic breather vent 😠, so I'm ordering another one of those from the dealer.   New Koni's, Eibach springs, and axle bearings installed.

IMG_6831.JPG

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I modified an old screwdriver to help remove the broken off breather vent.  Basically catch the top of the sideway holes and pull up.  New 38352-78600 is $7 from dealer.

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Here's a pic of the TC mount clearance.  Hard to believe the factory used a belt instead of something like this.  

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Rear suspension is back together.  Not sure how loose others leave the inner bushing brackets so they can be tightened with wheels on the ground, but I left about an 1/8" gap between brackets and frame.  Spindle nuts are loose too.  I guess I should start looking for an exhaust system, pretty rusty, saw a few small holes in the pipe.  It has Nichira mufflers, looks like they're date coded Dec-84.
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Now onto the rear brakes.
IMG_6849.thumb.JPG.005283775a3fdade09be3a3f98373934.JPG

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On mine, the serrated washers were missing their teeth completely as they had been washed off with British weather over 40+ years.

The moustache bar used to clonk going over bumps or undulations in the road when accelerating.

As they are NLA, I used some 9mm and 3mm washers (60mm OD, 24mm ID -22mm if you want a very tight self centring fit) to make my own version. NEVER a clunk since and I’ve been pushing very hard.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-pick-own-size-Solid-Neoprene-Rubber-Washer-Washers-3mm-thk-upto-60mm-dia-/262163888110

98a4ad252ea092521eb99477d0d49c1e.jpg

I think the engineers put them there for a very good reason.


Ps. Great work - looks incredible under there - now you will fear puddles!!!

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On 7/26/2021 at 2:12 AM, AK260 said:

On mine, the serrated washers were missing their teeth completely as they had been washed off with British weather over 40+ years.

The moustache bar used to clonk going over bumps or undulations in the road when accelerating.

As they are NLA, I used some 9mm and 3mm washers (60mm OD, 24mm ID -22mm if you want a very tight self centring fit) to make my own version. NEVER a clunk since and I’ve been pushing very hard.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-pick-own-size-Solid-Neoprene-Rubber-Washer-Washers-3mm-thk-upto-60mm-dia-/262163888110

98a4ad252ea092521eb99477d0d49c1e.jpg

I think the engineers put them there for a very good reason.


Ps. Great work - looks incredible under there - now you will fear puddles!!! emoji1787.png

So is this 2 3mm metal washers with a 9mm neoprene washer between them?

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So is this 2 3mm metal washers with a 9mm neoprene washer between them?


Ok, what you see me holding is the metal washer at the bottom. Then glued to it is a 6mm (not 9mm my apologies) rubber washer, glued on top of that is a 3mm rubber washer. Makes sense?

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5 hours ago, AK260 said:

 


Ok, what you see me holding is the metal washer at the bottom. Then glued to it is a 6mm (not 9mm my apologies) rubber washer, glued on top of that is a 3mm rubber washer. Makes sense?
 

 

AK, I measured the distance on my 240Z between the steel washer and the mustache bar, top and bottom, and it's about 10mm.   So, are you running a small 1mm gap?  Just curious.  

My worn serrated washers have about a 5mm gap between rubber nubs and mustache bar.

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Got the rear brakes put back together.  Next step is to get my wife out there to help me bleed the brakes.  The new MSA wheel cylinders had a different angle on the inlet so ordered to new set of hard lines to fit.  

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AK, I measured the distance on my 240Z between the steel washer and the mustache bar, top and bottom, and it's about 10mm.   So, are you running a small 1mm gap?  Just curious.  
My worn serrated washers have about a 5mm gap between rubber nubs and mustache bar.


Yes indeed a small gap! But the gaps to the metal washers on mine top and bottom look different when the car is on a jack. One side is 10mm the other side is closer to 14mm. Probably because I was jacking under the diff.

I have a ramp arrangement in my garage where the car is driven in, onto ramps when parked such that I lay under it and change an exhaust for example. The next time I’m in the garage, I will take a picture for you to show the gap when the car is on the ground / with suspension loaded up.

I am so very pleased with the improvement they made to the car and have no clocks / knocks or additional noise - regardless of how hard I push the car or the state of the roads oh and it cost me less than $15. ;)
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14 hours ago, AK260 said:

 


Ok, what you see me holding is the metal washer at the bottom. Then glued to it is a 6mm (not 9mm my apologies) rubber washer, glued on top of that is a 3mm rubber washer. Makes sense?
 

 

Next dumb 2 questions... 1- Did you use a 6 + 3mm rubber washers because there wasn't a 9mm rubber washer? 2- I presume the metal washer is oriented away from the mustache bar?

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Here are my "two passengers" loaded per the FSM while tightening a few of the suspension bolts.  Not sure what size passengers they had in mind, a Sumo wrestler, or a petite lady.  180 and 120 lbs should do.  I bounced the springs several times before tightening.

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I guess I'll make up something to get the toe-in adjusted close enough to get it to an alignment shop.  The normal flat rate alignment charge is ridiculous for 240Z's, not much to adjust really!  But I'll bite the bullet and get it done, at least I'll know where it's at.  Once I get a few miles on the Eibach springs, I'll let you know how much the drop was.

IMG_6877.JPG

 

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How did you get your Z up on the elevator pads?

Oh, those? I’ve got hydraulic rams under my shop floor, so I just hit a button to raise and lower the Z. You should see it when it goes 6 feet high for those oil changes!

Kidding! . It was on jack stands, so I just had to jack up each corner a few inches to slide a concrete block under each tire.


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