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Another Suspension Rebuild


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Got the front done today.  Bearings checked out okay, just repacked them and new seals on the rotors.  Rotors look bad in picture, but they're not grooved. I did notice the forward right tension rod rubber bushing had a split in it, and I hadn't even torqued it down yet! Supplier is going to send me a new one. Hopefully it was just a bad one and not a sign of near future issues.   

 Going to wait to tighten a few bolts after car is settled on the ground, LCA bolts, tension rod nuts.  Then adjust the toe-in so I can at least drive it to the alignment shop.  

Now onto the rear...

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Brake drums were froze onto the stub axle.  Luckily I had an old drum puller from an old stubborn Mustang.  Soaked hub concentric with Kroil, tightened the puller a bit, then rapped on the drum center with a mallet to break loose.

Now Im debating whether or not to replace the real axle bearings.  Off the car I'm worried I might not be able to get the axle nuts loose.  Bearings aren't bad, but they do make a tiny bit of noise on the bench.  Probably the original bearings, and likely pretty dry.  Looks like I also have a shorter wheel stud I need to replace.

I test fit the rear struts and the Koni gland nuts will work fine.

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Well, decided to change the rear hub bearings since I've got it tore down this far.  Had a 6 foot piece of 1.5" x 3" tubing that I drilled a couple 3/8" holes and notched for the 27mm socket.  Probably overkill.  I think a 2 x 6 piece of wood with four 3/8" hanger bolts and a hole for the socket would have worked too.  First, got the Dremel and removed the lip at each flat, and chiseled the lip away from the threads.

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This should hold it down.

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Ready to break them loose.  Lug nuts on the studs to protect the threads.

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Then used the press to remove the bearings.  Nut easily spins onto the hub shaft threads, I was a bit worried about that.  I'll be using the newer 43262-W1200 nuts.   Bearings are Nachi, maybe original, not sure.  I'll be ordering new Timkens, don't want to do this again for awhile!

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I would try to clean up the threads first. Maybe get a metric thread file. If I could get it to torque I would probably run it but I dont beat on my cars.

Zed is correct on the common failure point. My point being if you thrash on your car there are other concerns than the threads. Although I believe most of these failures are in high HP cars

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Well, I’m kinda sure the axle would be okay, as suggested. The only stress would be an occasional 270° freeway onramp at a brisk speed. But I did buy another for $50 from a local club member anyway. At least I won’t be worried about seeing my tire and wheel rolling past me on the highway.


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32 minutes ago, sfm6s524 said:

At least I won’t be worried about seeing my tire and wheel rolling past me on the highway.

Since the thread quality isn't an indicator of the quality of the potential failure point your worry level should be the same.  Your "new" used axle is just as likely to fail as your old used axle.

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  • 2 weeks later...

After seeing that rubber tension rod bushing split, even before driving the car, I ordered and installed the plastic/aluminum bearing kit and rubber bushings. Seems to be be a lot better design, and hopefully firm up the suspension and steering response.
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Finally got ahold of a decent stub axle and finished assembly of the new bearings and Koni struts.
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Now onto the other rear pieces…
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